Adjustable Rear Shock

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Adjustable Rear Shock
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You can do some maintenance and minor repairs on your own vehicle.

To check the brake fluid level, raise the hood.

The master cylinder (mc) is located on the driver's side near the firewall, just under the windshield.

Most master cylinders have two small round caps that you can twist off. Some have one rectangular cap that either snaps on or has a metal bar that clips over the cap.

You can remove the metal clip by inserting a screwdriver under the clip and lifting up on the handle.

The plastic rectangular cap can be removed by popping it off with your thumbs.

Be very careful removing the caps.

It's best to take a paper towel and clean around the filler caps before removing.

Trash, dirt, or water can cause a lot of problems with your brake system...so, lets be cleaning-freaks when we work on the brake system, especially the master cylinder.

If the brake fluid in the master cylinder with the small round caps is up to the ring at the base of the filler neck it is okay.

In the master cylinder with the one cap the level should be at least one-quarter inch from the top.

You don't want to fill the master cylinder too full, it needs room to expand when it gets hot.

Look at the fluid. What color is it?

Clean fluid will be clear with a slight shade of yellowish.

If the fluid is dark, or blackish, you may have rubber hoses deteriorating inside.

The front brakes have a rubber-like hose from the caliper to the metal line coming from the master cylinder...if you have rear disc, they have a rubber line also.

Over a period of time, and heat, these lines will deteriorate inside.

Disc brakes generate an excessive amount of heat.

If it's where you can, poke your finger into the master cylinder and rub the bottom.

Now then, look at the end of your finger.

What is that?

If you have black deposits on your finger you need to clean the master cylinder.

A note about anti-lock brakes (ABS), just clean the master cylinder with paper towels the best you can.

Be sure not to leave any paper particles inside, they could stop-up a line.

It is recommended that you change these two rubber lines, because they will only contaminate the master cylinder again.

When you remove the lines you will loose the fluid in the master cylinder: this would be the time to clean the master cylinder and flush the entire brake system.

Some master cylinders have two compartments: one for the front brakes (the largest) and one for the rear brakes (the smallest).

We will only consentrate on changing the front lines at this time.

Remove the lid, or caps, from the master cylinder.

Put a paper towel over the master cylinder to keep contaminates out.

You may want to raise the vehicle and remove the front tires.

If you do, be sure to block the rear tires, set the emergency brake, and put stands of some sort under the body of the vehicle just behind the front tires on front wheel drive vehicles.

On rear wheel drives you can put your stand under the lower control arm (where the shock is bolted).

You will need the proper tools to break the lines loose.

Please don't use adjustable wrenches or pliers...you will ruin the shoulders on the nuts.

It's best to use a "line" wrench to break the nuts loose and then use the open-end wrench.

Don't get any brake fluid on the car body paint...it will peel the paint.

Once you have the old lines off and the new lines on, open the bleeder valves on the calipers and fill the master cylinder with the proper brake fluid, most use Dot3.

You may have to wait several minutes for the fluid to come through the lines and out the bleeders.

Once the fluid has started running through the bleeders you can close the one on the driver's side and then the one on the passenger side.

Check the fluid and add some if it is quite low--never let the master cylinder run out!

You will have air in the line and sometimes it's a bugger to get it all out.

After you check the level of the fluid, replace the covers, or caps.

Crank the engine and apply pressure on the brake pedal.

If the pedal feels spongy , you need to open the bleeder on the passenger side.

If you have help, let them press the brake pedal down slowly.

As they press the pedal, fluid will rush from the bleeder...tighten it.

Did you see any air bubbles coming out?

Try this two or three times, then go to the driver's side and bleed it in the same manner.

Be sure to inform your helper not to let the pedal up until you have the bleeder closed, otherwise, you will get more air in it.

Watch the fluid as it comes out, by standing away from it... it smarts the eyes when it gets into them, but fresh water will do the trick to get it out.

In face, water is all you need to get it off your hands.

Now, does the pedal go down about half-way to the floorboard and have a "solid" or "hard" feel to it? If it does, you're okay.

You can replace the wheels and go shopping, for more tools, because we will discuss radiators, heater cores, and hoses next time.

Oh, I'm sorry, all you wanted to do was 'check' the fluid in the Master Cylinder and make sure it was within a quarter inch from the top...oh, well, you got all this extra for the same nickle.

Tommy Sessions has been in auto repair since 1970. He publishes Auto Repair Answers Newsletter so you can learn how to keep your vehicle looking new, running safely and efficiently, while you save money and time...also, learn how to avoid shop rip offs. Don't be at the mercy of the dealerships and auto repair shops...they will have more respect for you.
http://www.auto-repair-answers.com

YZ250F

The YZ250F, a four stroke ATV from Yamaha is very much like the YZ250 from Yamaha again. Both the models have striking similarities that make some wonder about the variety that Yamaha has to offer or are the designs so perfect that there is hardly any room for improvement? Well just read through and judge yourself.

A glance on the vehicle lets you know about the aluminum frame of the vehicle. The welding, casting and tubing is done with superb finesse. This vehicle from Yamaha comes with a five valve Titanium engine having a compression ratio of 13:5:1. This is why it produces such great torque and also horsepower. The performance booster is also the smooth handling offered by it. The whole weight of the vehicle is balanced equally on the wheels. For durability the dry slump lubrication system is employed. The engine is liquid cooled 250cc. The DOHC engine is very powerful and highly dependable. High precision fuel and air mixing is taken care of by 37 mm Keihin FCR carburetor with a throttle position sensor (TPS). This also gives a better throttle response. Starting and restarting this vehicle is very easy, thanks to the automatic decompression. The gear box is a standard five speed transmission. The YZ250F employs a multiplate clutch. This helps the driver to shift gears smoothly without any kind of hitch. The magnesium cylinders in the engine are painted black and contribute a lot towards the lightweight nature of the vehicle. The reduction in size improves performance by cutting down pumping loss. That’s all about the engine.

The chassis of YZ250F is very much like the YZ250F. The model e exhibits superb amalgamation of Aluminum alloy casting with forging. It also uses the KYB 48mm forks employing a speed sensitive system that controls damping. The damping force opposes speed and is controlled by the piston speed. The same as in other Yamaha ATVs. Like other ATVs from Yamaha this also comes with a four way adjustable, rear shock absorber. The internals are Kashima coated to reduce friction. The removable rear sub frame is another common feature. It is Aluminum built with square section tubing. This eases the maintenance work and also helps in weight cut. The front wheel hub gives better durability due to its lightweight. The brake calipers, both front and rear, come with Aluminum pistons. The anti bubble cylinder is fitted along to offer stronger brakes. The front excel rim measures 12 inches and the rear one measures 19 inches, as in YZ250.

The YZ250F in 2009 will come with some new features. Changes have been done to deliver even better performance. The exhaust system now sports a Titanium header for low end grunt that is 6cm longer. The Aluminum silencer has been reduced by 5cm. The clutch uses floating rubber damper instead of judder spring. The swing arm has become lighter. One smart move was to shorten the clutch lever and to provide a lever position adjuster. This helps drivers to set it according to their comfort. Team Yamaha has also worked on its styling. The seats look better and are more comfortable. The most prominent change is the gold colored plates to cover the drive chain. The vehicle comes in two color models; blue/white and red/white. The blue/white costs around $ 6.5k and a little more than $6.7k for the other one.

learn more about how to sell a yamaha YZ250F and about atv products in atv classifeds

About the Author

Air Shocks vs Air lift kits?

My van's rear end sags when towing a travel trailer. I want to lift the rear while towing. Does anyone have any recommendations about adjustable air shocks vs. adjustable air lift kits?

I'd go with air shocks, cheaper

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