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There are a lot of different kinds of cars out there, but most of them have the same steps to changing their brake pads. Today we are going to talk about how to change brake pads on the most popular Toyota cars. A lot of people do not like to spend the money to get their Toyota Highlander some new brakes, because it costs a lot to go to a shop to do that. However, when you are driving something like a Highlander, you want to keep the brakes in tip top shape. That is why it could be a good idea to learn how to do it yourself. The brake pads are not the easiest thing to change on a car, but most of the time, people seem not to have too hard of a time with it.
Steps to Changing Your Toyota Brake Pads
First of all, you need to jack up your car, and make sure that it is supported. This is because you are going to have to take your wheels off to be able to change out your brake pads. The first thing you will need to do is to take a screwdriver and remove your wheel cover. If you do not have a hub cap, then you can move on. After taking off the cover, you will need to take your wheel off by using your lug wrench. Most of the time, cars will come with this. After doing this, you will notice that your caliper, as well as your brake rotor, are now exposed.
From here you can take out the pins or the bolts using your socket wrench. After doing this, you can simply lift the caliper off and away from your brake rotor. Please note that you should not allow the caliper to just hang by its rubber brake hose. Doing this can cause a lot of damage to your caliper. At this point, you may want to inspect your rotors to see if they need to be replaced as well. Check for cracks, as well as any kind of gouges, that could be in it. After checking that, you will want to remove the worn out brake pads from the caliper, which you have not left hanging, right? You will need to remove both of the brake pads that are on the caliper. One is called the inboard and one is called the outboard.
After removing the worn out pads you can put the new ones on. You have to be sure to install the pads on the correct side of the caliper. A good way to tell if you are putting them on the right side is to check to make sure that your outboard is the pad that has a wear sensor on it. This is the thing that sounds really bad whenever your brake pads are almost gone. After putting them on the right side, then you can add back in the clips and all the pins. Sometimes it can be hard to get the pad into place. Do not be afraid to wiggle it into place if you have to. Then you simply just reverse everything that you did. Put back on your rotor if you took it off, and then reinstall your caliper to its mount spot. Make sure everything is tightened and secure as well.
Finishing the Job
After doing all of that, you can put your wheel back on and tighten it securely. Then put your wheel cover back on and lower your car down to the ground. Before you start driving, it is a good idea to turn your car on and pump your brakes a few times to reset your calipers piston. When it is fully set, you will notice that the brake will become harder to press. When you first go to press it, you may notice that it is very lose feeling and your foot goes all the way to the floor. However, after a few good pumps on the brake pedal, you should be good to go.
Mantius Cazaubon is a successful author and publisher of Toyota Parts Buyers Guide A resource which includes information on Discount Auto Parts and Do It Yourself Auto Repair
The Breakdown on Performance Brakes
It's no secret that today's automakers cut corners anywhere they can to save a buck. From plastic interiors to doughnut spare tires, we all learn to live with the shortcomings. But the worst cutback is when these companies get chinsey on brakes.
Truth be told, factory brakes are only getting flimsier. The manufacturers are using cheaper iron for the discs and drums, lower-grade compounds for the pads and shoes, and worst of all, undersized calipers and rotors. Due to the underpowered nature of these systems, today's trucks and SUVs can require brake service in less than 20,000 miles. One reporter was actually informed by the dealership that the squeaky stops on her sub-20K SUV were the result of an aggressive brake system.
Getting your ride to stop properly isn't really that hard. The automotive aftermarket is brimming with performance brake systems and components designed for nearly every vehicle on the road. From new ceramic brake pads and slotted brake rotors to oversized discs and big brake kits, there are a slew of brake manufacturers ready to beef up your pedal prowess.
Beside the fact that you get many more miles out of performance brake components, they're also engineered to stop your car faster and with more control. This results in safer, more controllable braking in your daily driving adventures, and high-performance stopping when engaged in spirited motoring. Basically, the improved pedal feel of powerful brakes isn't reserved for guys who are hanging it out at the track on weekends.
These days, most performance brake kits are built specifically for your vehicle, so upgrading is pretty easy. Now, if you go with oversized discs and multi-piston calipers, the modifications get a bit more complex. But for an easy upgrade, direct bolt-on systems make all the difference in the world. Plus, the advanced designs and high-quality materials that go into aftermarket brakes make ‘em worth every penny.
Quality brake rotors are made of heavy-duty cast iron, but that's just the beginning. Internal venting keeps ‘em cooler under heavy use, while drilled or slotted brake rotors deliver a consistent performance bite. Not only do you get better performance and longer brake life, a set of cross-drilled and vented rotors adds a racy style to your ride, especially if you've got a set of open-style wheels.
So, when you're ready to replace those factory binders, which is normally sooner than you think, put the brakes on the factory trash and set your ride up right with a high-performance pad, caliper and rotor system available for your particular vehicle.
About the Author
Though his ambition is handicapped by laziness, Michael Kirby manages to research and write about <a href="http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/20A50531A1.aspx"><font color="#0000ff">new ceramic brake pads</font></a> along with all-things-automotive at <a href="http://www.autoanything.com/"><font color="#0000ff">autoanything.com</font></a>.
Front brakes acting up....again...?
I have a 1994 Eagle Vision ESI with a little over 146,000 miles on it. During the summer/early fall of 2006 I had new brakes (rotors) put on and everything went well. My bf did the job and noticed a bolt had worked loose but was unable to redo this because the threads in the cast iron had been stripped. He rigged it and it worked all that time, until now. Suddenly the new front brakes started locking up and the car wouldn't shift. Once the car shifted it seemed the brakes gave in finally and released. But stopping and going would cause them to start to squeeze up again. He attributed this to the bolt being worked loose again, and fixed it with a heilacoil kit from Advance Auto. While he had the tire off he also noticed the tie rod was bouncing around and replaced that as well. The car ran ok for a couple days, but now the brakes are locking up again, it is struggling to shift, and there is noticeable noise and severe vibration in the front end going down the highway. Any ideas?
Unfortunately, helicoils don't always provide the required grip needed to hold components like brake parts, so it is quite possible that the bolt is loose again. Unfortunately, you will need to replace the component that the bolt screws into. If your lucky, your BF can find one at a junk yard and save you some money.
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