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Unless you are riding with the speed that can rival a turtle, you will never experience warped bike tire problems. This is something that happens to most riders. There will come a time when you will miscalculate the distance and slam the front tire to a wall or something. It is funny when you picture it but it happens!
The tire you can easily replace with a new one but can you fix a warped tire rim? If the damage is not that great on the warped areas are just pretty minimal and 80% of the rim is still in great shape, you can still do something about this.
Here is a step by step guide on how you can fix this:
Step 1: Detach the tire from the bicycle. Get a wrench and remove the bolts that secure either side of the wheel to the bicycle. Remove the wheel and set it on a sturdy working area. It is better if you have a truing stand. You can just put the tire there and secure it by locking the nuts. This should let you work on the wheel without it rolling elsewhere (but this should not be an issue since the tire is already warped).
Step 2: Get a marker or a piece of chalk to mark the warped areas. Encircle the areas that are warped. Start with the first sign of warped parts and close the circle to the end of the warped area.
Step 3: Go get a spoke wrench. If you do not have this with you, you can borrow from someone who has it. First, tighten the spokes that are in the areas not warped. Loose the spokes found in the warped areas. Make sure you have loosened the spokes that are enclosed in the circle.
Step 4: Spin the wheel after loosening 3 spokes at a time. This will help smoothen out the warped edges of the wheel. If there are still warped areas, just loosen spokes in those areas and then spin the wheel again until everything smooths out.
Step 5: Remove the nuts securing the wheel in the truing stand and place the wheel back on the bicycle again. Put the bolts back on either side of the wheel. Give it a little spin. Spin the tire until you cannot hear cracking sounds from the wheel anymore. This means the spokes have already settled.
For more tips and advice on continental bike tires, please visit http://www.ContinentalBikeTires.net now.
Choosing the Right Bike Lock
A bicycle lock is a physical security device used on bicycles to prevent theft. They are generally used to fasten the bicycle to a bicycle rack or any immovable object. Bike locks are a safe and inexpensive solution to the safety and security of your bike when you ride to work or school. Even if you don't commute a bike lock can be handy for stops while taking rides.
One important thing to consider when choosing a bike lock is who will most likely steal your bike. On a busy university campus, for example, thefts are often crimes of convenience when someone spots a bike that hasn't been locked at all. However, if you ride your bike around an urban centre for commuting, people might have specialised equipment such as crowbars, lock-picks and hacksaws that are no match for weaker locks. Leaving your bike in the same public place for hours at a time, as opposed to a few minutes while you rent a DVD, gives someone even more time to take advantage of your lock's particular weakness.
You'll want the best possible bike lock you can afford, since its cost is always less than that of replacing a stolen bicycle. Most people recommend spending about 10% of the value of your bike on its lock. If your bicycle is very precious or expensive, try a combination of several locks when leaving your bike in an unfamiliar area or for an extended period of time.
Materials
Buy a lock or chain of tool-hardened steel. This means that cutting, sawing and drilling tools will be meeting metal of the same hardness, and will not penetrate it as they would ordinary steels. Cheap locks use a brittle steel that can be broken by a car jack. Look for a flexible, shatterproof steel which will yield, rather than break, under stress.
* Consider a U-lock. These are the most popular. However, not all U-locks are created equal. Be sure to read the guarantee that comes with the lock. Also, buy the smallest possible U-lock for your needs - this will allow less room for a thief to some leverage for his or her crowbar or other tools.
* Consider a cable lock. These are the easiest for a thief to cut but are also the most flexible and inexpensive.
* Consider a motorcycle lock. These are very sturdy chain-link-type locks that are nearly impossible to cut through. However, they are extremely heavy.
* Consider a key lock. Key locks are generally harder to break than combination locks.
* O-Locks offer the best protection for your bike. A few manufacturers are marketing them; Bike Club and Masterlock are two that come to mind, but not all bicycle shops carry them. Ask around. The adjustability makes them great for snugly securing the frame and a front wheel to a bike rack. This helps prevent thieves from getting a prying device into the lock. Their locking mechanisms are also difficult to pick.
The bike lock mechanism is composed of two different parts: a structure that fastens your bike to itself or to a stationary railing and the lock itself, both of which have strengths and weaknesses. Some bike locks use combinations, like lockers. While combinations seem secure because they aren't easy to guess, these kinds of locks are usually strapped to a thin metal chain that is easy to clip apart with bolt cutters. Then again, you don't have to worry about losing a key if you are prone to forgetfulness, and they are lightweight enough to carry everywhere. Combination locks will work as a visual deterrent against people looking for an easy theft.
Warranty
Good locks will guarantee your bike against theft up to a specified value. As home insurance policies generally does not apply to stolen bikes worth more than INR 23000 or so, this is an important feature. Ensure you have adequate bike insurance.
For many people, weight is an important consideration when selecting a bike lock. Whether you're training in mountain biking, cross-country marathons, or just visiting a friend, the last thing you want is a twenty-pound weight strapped around your frame slowing you down. There isn't a precise correlation between weight and strength, however. A special steel, called tool-hardened steel, will at least be as strong as many saws and cutters without being overly heavy.
Some manufacturers offer a warranty along with their lock that may partially reimburse you should your bike disappear. Of course, nothing is absolute. Recently, it came to the attention of concerned bike riders that some types of very secure locks can in fact be opened with the plastic shaft from an ordinary pen. Keep in mind that while every bike lock has its weakness, there are many issues to consider when buying the right one for your bike.
About the Author
Christian is an author of several articles pertaining to Bike Insurance. He is known for his expertise on the subject and on other Business and Finance related articles.
What Kind of mountain bike Chainrings Do I need to use with vintage topline cranks?
I thought I could just put them on in place of my shimano crank arms but they have two drilled holes for two bolts. what would you call the chainrings needed to fit these arms. Where can I get some?
Well if your cranks are similar to these http://www.bikepro.com/products/cranks/topline.html then you might run into some issues.
First it is the furthest outward hole that will take the Chainrings - the inner is just for design/ weight saving not for the Chainrings.
Next, part of your confusion there may be because the Bolt Circle Diameter of those 5 outer holes is 130mm (shorthand is to say 130 BCD) Where nearly all older mountain bike cranks are 110 BCD and newer compact cranks may have a 104 BCD. So what that means is you won't be able to use regular mountain bike Chainrings on your Topline cranks.
There are still some possibilities. Really there is nothing particular about MTB chainrings that is really different from road chainrings. Chainrings are chainrings as long as they are modern enough to be designed for narrower 7,8,9 speed chains there isn't any real design difference between a road chainring and a MTB chainring.
130 BCD is a very common size chainring for Road bike cranks. All the Shimano cranks up until the compact drive stuff used 130 BCD so you can use just about any Shimano chainring. The problem you will run into with this solution is that the smallest 130 BCD chainrings you can find are 38 teeth (or 39??? I think 38 but you don't see them often) . A typical mountain bike would run 46 / 36 / 28 or maybe even 44 / 32 / 24 but you won't be able to get a 36, 34 or 32 chainring to fit on 130 BCD and even 44 and 46 aren't that common in the used parts bins.
So if you are planning to ride this as an Urban Commuter or such, or if you use it mainly on flat paths and smooth trails this can actually be good. You could run 48 / 38 or 50 /39 and gain a bit of long legged speed. If you need to gear down you could look at your rear cassette and change.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/ Here is a good tool for looking at your gear rations
Tips for Making That Vacation Adventure Video
With hours of shooting required to produce less than a minute of video, you have to decide how much vacation to sacrifice to the project.
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