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Bottom Bracket Axle
Checkout Ebay Auctions For The Cheapest Prices
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 (2) Bicycle Bike Bottom Bracket Axle Bolts w/ Plastic Collar 8mm BB Bolt  US $6.99
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 New Shimano XTR Bottom Bracket Right Inner Cover For Axle 112.5mm BB-M950 US $19.99
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Frigidaire Dishwasher Rack Roller 154174501 Sale Price: $0.25  |
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Frigidaire Dishwasher Rack Roller 154174501 |
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Shimano FC-6600 Ultegra Crank Arm Pinch Bolt List Price: $3.16 Sale Price: $4.04 |
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Shimano Crank Arm Fixing Bolts |
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Shimano FC-7800 Dura Ace Crank Arm Pinch Bolt List Price: $2.40 Sale Price: $2.08 |
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Shimano Crank Arm Fixing Bolts |
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Bottom Bracket Axle 5s-b Road 70mm (35-54-37.5) 126.5 Bolt Type Italian Sale Price: $9.98 |
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BOTTOM BRACKET AXLE 5S-B ROAD 70MM (35-54-37.5) 126.5 BOLT TYPE ITALIAN |
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Park Tool Bearing Tool Set for BB30 Bottom Bracket Systems List Price: $41.29 Sale Price: Too low to display |
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Tools designed by Park Tool to service Bottom Brackets.Designed to remove and install the bearings and bearing units used in BB30 and SRAM PressFit 30 bottom bracket assembliesIncludes two installation bushings, which are used in conjunction with an HHP-2 or HHP-3 Bearing Cup Press to press the bearings into the frameIncludes a bearing remover, which slides through the bottom bracket shell and into the bearing so it can be tapped out with a hammer |
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Shimano Dura Ace 7900 Bottom Bracket List Price: $0.00 |
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The Shimano Dura-Ace BB-7900 Bottom Bracket is simple and straightforward. It includes two cups with low-drag, high-precision Dura-Ace bearings, plus a cylindrical dust cover that mates the two cups. Shimano designed new bearing seals that reduce dragAAAto create smoother rotation and add durability.Product FeaturesMaterial: Hollowtech II forged aluminumSize: [English] 68mm; [Italian] 70mmWeight: 100gRecommended Use: Road cyclingManufacturer Warranty: 1 Year |
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Park Tool Slotted Bottom Bracket Adjustable Cup Wrench, 16mm List Price: $15.95 Sale Price: Too low to display |
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Tools designed by Park Tool to service Bottom Brackets.Discontinued from Parks line several years ago, the HCW-11 is back by popular demandFits "slotted" bottom bracket adjusting cups and cups with "raised" 16mm wrench flats |
Featured Article:
I bought our Austin Healey at the end of 2005 to add to our classic car fleet. I have owned (and still own) a number of classic cars including an Austin Healey Sprite but this was our first foray into Big Healey ownership.
They are very robust cars based on a strong steel chassis with a fairly lightweight body, 3 litre engine with four speed gearbox with overdrive. They were raced and rallied to great effect in the 1950s and 1960s and one of the contributors to this success was their roadholding. The cars have fairly basic suspension based on a rigid axle and a pair of cart springs with lever arm dampers giving it a firm ride with very little body roll and are fairly low to the ground. Herein lay my problem.
Ever since I bought the car the exhaust pipe, which runs under the rear chassis rails and the rear axle, drags on the gravel as I drive from our house onto the road. The exhaust also catches on the ever increasing number of speed bumps that seem to be reproducing almost of their own accord. On one occasion while our Healey was out on hire, the customer obviously hit something fairly low and broke one of the exhaust brackets. The car came back from the hire with the exhaust held onto the rear bumper by a twisted wire coat hanger.
After replacing the damaged bracket I checked with a local Austin Healey specialist to see if there was a way or raising the ride height. His answer was no, but if we wanted to race the Healey he could lower it for us. Not really helpful. I continued to soldier on assuming there was nothing I could do and this was just a feature of the car.
Then when we were on this year's MSA Euroclassic touring Spain and France in our E-Type Roadster I spoke to one of the Austin Healey drivers on the run and explained my problem. He said that his local specialist had actually managed to raise his Healey, rather than lower it, so it appeared it was possible, although he wasn't sure exactly what had been done. Unfortunately the company he used was some way from me so not very convenient. On one of my trips to AH Spares I mentioned my dilemma, armed with the knowledge that a fix was possible. He said that the problem was probably just old, soggy springs and that replacing them with a new set should return the ride height to normal. The cost of these wasn't excessive and fitting them within my technical capabilities.
Four weeks ago I collected a pair of new springs and a complete set of fixings, U bolts, bump stops etc. Over the subsequent weekends I removed the old springs and fitted the new ones. While under the car I noticed one other small problem which may have been a contributing factor. The rubber bump stops bolt onto the top of the axle and as the suspension moves the bump stops hits metal boxes bolted to the underside of the wheel arches. Sounds fine in principle but the metal box is hollow and over the years, both of them appeared to have taken a bit of a pounding and the bottom of the boxes had bent upwards, by at least 1 cm.
I unbolted the boxes and hammered them back to the right shape. There was some rust in the bottom of the boxes which had probably contributed to them weakening over the years. Clearly a design flaw, there were no holes in them for rain water to drain away, so no wonder they rusted, but as they now had rust holes there was no need to drill holes to correct the omission. I assumed that the weakened boxes would again bend over time so packed them with pieces of wood cut to the right size. This should be firm enough to stop the boxes being crushed again, while soft enough to absorb some of the shock of being bit by the bump stop.
Assembly complete, I told the car out on a road test. It passed the very first 'gravel test' as it didn't drag on the gravel when leaving the drive. Road holding felt fine, no obvious change and no bottoming out on rough roads. I am sure the exhaust will still catch on speed humps and there is nothing I can do about that.
On the return to my garage I measured the ride height to see how much difference it had made. The car now stands a full 4 cm higher than before. So a couple of hundred pounds and a few days work and my problem of four years standing is now fixed.
Tony Merrygold of The Open Road is an expert in classic car hire having been in business in the UK since 1997 running The Open Road. Tony runs courses telling people how to start up a car hire company, having trained over 100 people over the past three years. Combining his 20 year background in sales and marketing with his knowledge of the classic car hire industry, in early 2008 Tony launched a new web portal Classic Car Hire World - listing classic and sports car hire companies around the world. Within three months of its launch this site acheived a Google PageRank of 4/10 and was showing on the first page of google.com when users searched for 'classic car hire'.
Tony also runs a sales and marketing consultancy concentrating on working with Small and Medium Enterprises (SME) in Warwickshire and the West Midlands, helping them grow their business and improve their profitability.
1968 Chevy Camaro Disc Brake Swap Part 2
Now the the front of our Muscle Car can stop, lets focus on the back and the part that controls everything.
Stopping In The Front.......And In The Rear!
Coverting rear drums to discs is not that hard, just a bit different than the front. In the rear, you have the axle shaft that goes
into the center section or "pumpkin." Thats where the gears are for the rear. In order to remove the backing plates from the rear,
this is what you need to do: With wheels removed, slide the drum off. It might be tough if rusty. Dont be afraid to get angry and use
some force here. Disconnect all shoes, springs and hardware. In order to remove axles, we need to disconnect them from the rear end.
Get It Out Of The End!
We have a ten bolt rear to deal with, so we unbolted....uh... ten bolts and let the fluid drain out. Be prepared to buy a new gasket and some sealant
along with two quarts of rear end fluid. Once inside, remove the set screw that holds the axle gears to the shaft. Slide out the pin that keeps
the axle from coming and slide the axle out. Simple! At this point, since you are under the car, swap out the brake lines on the rear with the
ones provided. They are a bit shorter, but come with flex lines to the caliper. Bolt on the new backing plate and caliper bracket. Now its
time to slide the axle back and lock it in. Reseal rear end and refill. Slide the rotor on and bolt on the caliper. Keep in mind that the kit also comes with
new rear emergency brake cable sections. They also bolt right on. Thats it!
How To Tie This All Together
Under the hood of our Classic Muscle Car we also needed to upgrade some things as well. We also got a new brake vacuum booster, master cylinder, and proportioning valve.
proportioning valve. These go on with a couple nuts, just like they came off. Be sure to find a port on your intake manifold or your carb to run a vacuum line for your booster.
Be sure to bleed you master cylinder with the hoses provided before hooking any final brake lines. Please note: you might have to bend around some brake lines
to get the perfect fit. Just remember, gentle bends, or the lines will kink. Once competed, you are ready for bleeding. Remember to bleed farthest wheels from the master
cylinder first. Have a friend pump while you bleed or use a hand held power bleeder. Bolt the wheels on and away we go!
Come visit us at http://www.ratrodauthority.com.com for ideas, parts, vehicles and anything to do with Rat Rods, Muscle Cars, and Hot Rods.
About the Author
Started by Art Tupaczewski, his experience in the auto body industry lead him to devise a way to find that "specialty part" for your car quickly, easily, and cost effectively. Whether just starting out, or a seasoned veteran, http://www.ratrodauthority.com has what you need.
After analyzing the marketplace, Art figured out an efficient way to get what you need fast and correct from the comfort of your own home. His website is the most user friendly and is designed to tell you exactly what you need to know so you can get back to your project. No guesswork and up to the date products allow you to move at a rapid rate and checkout quickly.
How do you measure the axle length of cranks?
I am buying a new frame and am going to need a new bottom bracket. The information supplied with the frame tells me i need a 68mm bottom bracket. Bottom brackets also have another measurement relating to the axle length. I need to know how to measure this so can buy the right sized bottom bracket for my new frame. (I already have my cranks but am just unsure of how to measure the axle length.)
Thanks in advance
The 68mm figure is the width of the shell on your frame.....so to start with, you need a bottom bracket that will fit 68mm. The good news there is that virtually every bb on the market will fit that. The other common shell width is 73mm....most bottom brackets will do either size with the addition or omission of spacers on the cups (road and mtb types....bmx bb's are a little different). There are a few that are made specifically for either 68mm or 73mm, so just be sure that yours is made for the 68mm shell that your new frame has.
The axle length is determined by the cranks that you're going to use. The vast majority of mountain bike cranks are made for a 113mm axle, but it just depends on the cranks you have. You can visit the manufacturer's website and maybe get that info, or just about any bike shop can consult a reference book to tell you....or if you post it here maybe one of us can tell you. Give some specifics about the frame and cranks if you can. I'm sure you already know this, but you'll also need to match the type of axle splines to what your cranks use.
Hope this helps some, post up again if you need more. 
)
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