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Tying down an ATV is like a calculus test-it can be incredibly frustrating and headache-inducing if you aren't prepared. Thousands of horror stories exist about ATV's bouncing off of trailers into oncoming traffic or sliding off into seemingly endless ravines. The process of securing an ATV to a trailer, however, does not have to be the subject of nightmares. With the proper techniques and tools, it is possible to avoid extensive damage and years of humiliating tales told by friends and family.
Obviously, it is highly important to have proper equipment when tying down an ATV. The necessities include a trailer that can easily support the weight of your ATV, a vehicle capable of hauling the trailer, and four ratchet straps. Ratchet straps can be found in virtually any hardware or motoring supply store. If possible, purchase automatic ratchet straps as they are much easier to use than the straps that require manual adjustment. After obtaining all of the necessary supplies, you can begin securing your ATV.
Generally speaking, it is a good idea to have the trailer placed in your yard or somewhere else out of public roads when securing your ATV. Start by backing your vehicle towards the front of the trailer. Lining them up perfectly isn't entirely necessary as you can pull the trailer to the hitch of the towing vehicle manually. Once you have the vehicle and the trailer in position, lower the coupler of the trailer onto the hitch of the vehicle. With the coupler and hitch in place, lock the lever on top of the coupler in the downward position. Be sure to pull up on the trailer to ensure that is securely attached to the hitch. After this attachment is complete, link the support chains to the hitch as well (providing your trailer has them) and plug in the trailer lights. Forgetting to plug in the trailer lights can result in a fine if a police officer happens to spot you.
Now that you have successfully attached the trailer to your vehicle and prevented any fines, you can begin tying down your ATV. First, start your ATV and let it warm up for a minute or two. While it is warming up, lower the ramp(s) of your trailer and position it according to the width of your ATV. Then, carefully navigate the ATV up the ramp and position it in the center of the trailer. Turn off the engine and, most importantly, engage the parking brake to avoid any rolling that might occur during transportation. Remember to fold the ramp back up when you are done using it. You can then begin attaching the ratchet straps at each corner. Attach one end of the strap to the rack of the ATV (or the undercarriage if you have a model that doesn't have a rack) and the other end of the strap to the trailer, confirming that both ends are securely connected. Next, crank the ratchet until the strap is perfectly taut. You should notice the suspension of the ATV tighten and sink. Repeat this on the three remaining corners, checking that every strap is firmly fastened. When finished, do a quick survey of your work to make sure every step is completed and the trailer is ready for the haul.
Be it a short haul or a long haul, it is immensely important to be cautious every time you attach and transport a trailer. Taking a few preventive measures and using proper equipment will not only prevent thousands of dollars in damages, they will make this task much safer for yourself and other drivers. With patience and practice, securing an ATV will never be the subject of your nightmares again.
I am a freelance writer that is simply trying to get some of his work out there. I am seeking to better my writing and see what others think about it. Any feedback or constructive criticism is greatly appreciated. Please feel free to contact me at jake_bball23@hotmail.com
How to Bleed Your Motor Bike's Brakes With More Success
The first time I decided to strip down the front brakes on my Honda Superdream, I thought it best to follow the manual. I duly bought one on ebay and then set about following the instructions as carefully as possible. All well and good, the manual was from a reputable company (famous in the UK for strip-downs of any vehicle you could mention) and most of what it said was accurate and helpful. However, when it came to bleeding the brakes I found that the information given was hopeless.
In fact the method they suggested was in line with most other manuals and is considered by many to be the only way to bleed brake lines of air. That said, I couldn't get it to work! So you can see what I am referring to I will quote
"Check the level of the reservoir, and fill almost to the top. Place a jar below the brake caliper unit and attach a clear plastic tube from the calliper bleed screw to the container so that the pipe is always immersed below the surface of the fluid. Unscrew the bleed screw one complete turn and pump the handlebars lever slowly. As the fluid is ejected from the bleed screw the level in the reservoir will fall. Continue the pumping action with the lever until no further air bubbles emerge from the end of the pipe."
I won't quote any further as it was at this point that I discovered that the fluid just did not appear to flow out of the bleed nipple in the way it describes above. The Handlebar lever continued to be spongy and I eventually decided after slowly pumping for at least 20 minutes to think of another way to clear the air from the system.
One of the key problems with motor bikes is that the brake lever is set right up on the handle bars, way above the caliper unit; unlike on a car where the pedal is on the floor, at more or less the same level as the calipers. This means that you are trying to force air down the brake lines, when all air wants to do is rise to the top (as it is lighter than the fluid of course). A solution might be to remove the lever and master cylinder from the handlebars and to pump the lever from a much lower position, as close to the level of the calliper as possible. I tried this, but because I'd had to remove the cover from the reservior to top up the liquid I managed to spill the fluid all over the place. Not ideal, as brake fluid works as a great paint stripper!
So now to my successful method! Rather than taking the reservoir off the handlebars, I instead undid the two bolts that secure the calliper to the fork. Next I slid the caliper unit away from the wheel. At this point you will probably find that your bike differs in someway from the Superdream, however you should find that it's possible to place a G-clamp (screw end) into the calliper piston. This will only be possible if you remove the brake pads and any retaining pins etc. You may also find that there are various protective rubber skirts etc. around the piston itself. This shouldn't be a problem as long as you don't snag these in the clamp as you turn the screw.
With the pads out of the way, I pumped the handlebar lever a few times and forced the piston much further out of the calliper unit than it would normally be able to go. VERY IMPORTANT - DO NOT do this bit with too much enthusiasm and spring the piston right out of the calliper unit (unless you intend to do a full strip down and want to replace the piston seals). This will be very, very messy and getting the piston back into the unit will be harder than you think!
Next, I positioned the G-Clamp (screw end) over the piston and slowly turned it until it reached the base of the piston.
Before continuing I removed the cover from the reservoir on the handlebars and then as I turned the screw I watched the air from the brake line bubble its way to the top of the reservoir. Eventually the bubbles stopped appearing and I knew that there air had all been forced out of the system. The piston was back in its original position and the brake pads could be pushed back into place, secured and the whole unit bolted back onto the fork.
Yes, it was a little more complicated than conventional bleeding; but, it was cleaner; no nipples to undo, no plastic pipes held under the surface of the ejected fluid, in fact, no fluid at all had to be ejected from the system. I didn't have to pump away at the lever for ages, waiting for a sign of success. The G-Clamp did it all.
At this point I can see that simple instructions without the story might be appropriate, so here is the simple version.
1. Undo the bolts that secure the calliper unit to the forks.
2. Slide calliper unit away from the wheel.
3. Remove brake pads and retaining pins etc.
4. Pump the handlebar lever slowly until the piston has been pushed quite a way out of the unit (a couple of centimetres max.)
5. Slot a G-Clamp over the calliper unit and position the screw end over the piston.
6. Screw down until screw end makes contact with the base of the piston.
7. Remove cover from reservoir on the handlebars.
8. Continue screwing G-Clamp and watch the little air bubbles rising to the top of the reservoir.
9. When there are no more air bubbles and the piston is right back where it started your job is done.
10. Replace cover of reservoir; slide brake pads back into place and replace retaining pins; secure calliper unit back onto fork.
At this point I must add that I am not a mechanic and I only mess about with bikes and cars for fun. However, having used this method I took the bike for its annual MOT (Ministry of Transport) Test, and it passed with flying colours. Brakes super efficient and safe for the road.
About the Author
Mechanic for fun, artist and other stuff that I'll think about later.
Would J-B weld be able to fix my aluminum front brake lever?
I got in an accident on my CR250 (dirt bike), causing it to land hard on its right side. The lever for the front brake broke in half, just low enough where it is very inconvenient to use. J-B Weld is a lot cheaper than a brand new lever so I was wondering if anyone here and successfully fixed their brake or clutch levers with it before.
No,dont do it.It will probably break loose on you when you are really counting on it not to.BAD IDEA
Honda GL1800 Gold Wing
Travelling gold class. Superior comfort, heated seats, inbuilt GPS ... why drive when you can fly on Honda's 'king of the road'.
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