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2012 AVID HSX DISC BRAKE ROTOR 160MM MOUNTAIN BIKE 6 BOLT US $49.00
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AVID HS1 DISC BRAKE ROTOR 160MM 6 BOLT MOUNTAIN BIKE US $29.00
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Featured Article:

It is not rare for you to stop on the roadside trying to change a tire and to add to your difficulties you are confronted with a too tight lug nut and you cannot figure out what to do.
Instructions:
1. In the first place there is no sense in cursing your car. The mistake is with the person who tightened the wheel nuts of your car who has tightened them too much. The possibility is there for him to have used an air tool for the job, as a result the lug nut have got too tightened. But remember that it is a blessing in disguise as your wheel did not come off while you are on the high way.
2. The second thing to do is to take your lug wrench and fit it on to the lug nut with the free end to your left parallel to the ground. If you need to loosen you must turn to left and if you need to tighten, to the right. Remember this simple rule.
3. Now stand on the lug wrench holding on to the car for support and try to loosen the nut. You can try bouncing a couple of times if it does not give way. Still if you are not successful spray some WD 40 on the base of the lug nut and try again there is a good chance for you to succeed. If the nut gives way do not take it out until all the nuts are loosened.
4. Now there are lug wrenches mend for loosening lug nuts that are difficult to remove. If you feel that you are likely to face such situations and you find yourself not so strong to tide off such a situation better invest on one of those. They are specially designed for the purpose.
Find out more on Lug Nuts.
Be the Best Buddy to Your Brakes!
Owning and driving a car is really awesome but maintaining the car is another story. Because auto maintenance and repair may be costly if the damage is intensive. But there are ways to minimize the cost when the damages are anticipated to some extent. And one of the most important aspects of auto care is the maintenance of the brake system. A poorly maintained auto brakes might be the cause of a dangerous collision, leading to an untimely death.
Here's how you can be the best buddy to your brakes -
1. Always check the important car components, particularly the brakes.
Before going on a vacation, running an errand, attending business meetings, or simply going for a drive around the city, one must make it into a habit to check essential auto parts that may be the source of any irreversible accident, the braking system in particular.
2. Be sensitive for any unusual sound, noise or feel you might notice while driving.
Being observant to something that might be happening while driving is greatly helpful to early detect possible malfunctioning of the car components, this is called "preventive maintenance". This will be helpful to minimize the extent of the damage.
Here are the possible observations:
• A jagged feel from your brake pedal suggests that it's time for a brake pedal replacement.
• A crushing sound or feel while braking is also for brake pedal replacement.
• The car travels too far before coming to a stop, this means that the brakes need adjustment or the brake linings must be replaced.
• The brake pedal pulsate up and down upon stopping, this suggests that the front brake rotors need to be replaced.
• The car pulls to one side when braking; a stuck caliper causes the problem and needs to be checked.
• The brakes squeal when stopping fairly short; squealing occurs when the brake linings are worn out or needs replacement.
• The car bounces up and down when stopping short; shock absorbers may need to be replaced.
3. Have the damaged brakes repaired immediately.
How to Repair Auto Brakes:
A. Parts of the Brake System
• brake pads – the parts that get in touch with the brake rotors during braking
• brake rotors – should be even and smooth
• brake caliper
B. Materials Needed for repair
• Brake pads
• Brake fluid
• Brake bleed kit
• Brake grease
• Brake spray cleaner
• Caliper
• C-clamp (or vise-grip piers)
• Clean towel
• Drip pan
• Jack stands
• Lifting jack
• Rotor
• Tire iron
• Wrench
C. Follow these steps -
1. Find a place conducive for repair, one that is away from the public and traffic. Using the tire iron, loosen the lug nuts of all the wheels. Place the jack beneath the car's chassis and lift the car. Position the car lower on the jack stands for support during the repair.
2. Take away the wheels and the lug nuts from the car. Next is to get rid of the two caliper bolts by using wrench. The caliper bolts are found on the caliper's side, nearest to the car frame.
3. Haul the rotor from the bolts of the wheel. The rotor can easily be removed if there's no rust binding it to the steering knuckle, else remove the rust first with a hammer.
4. Detach the brake lining from the caliper with a wrench. Put the drip pan under the brake lining for any fluid spill. Clean the wheel bolts from rust with a wire brush.
5. Attach the brake lining to the new caliper, placing it over the intake nozzle located near the bottom caliper bolt. Tighten the brake lining by using a wrench and glide the brake pads on the walls of the new caliper. Check the brake pads if it's positioned facing each other and the curve should mirror the caliper curve, installation is then successful.
6. Prepare the rotor and spray it with brake cleaner. Finish cleaning by drying the rotor with a clean towel. Glide the rotor on the wheel bolts; ensuring that the rotor's top hat part (convex spot at the middle) faces outward.
7. Install the new caliper with the new brake pads (refer to step 5) back on the rotor. Using a wrench, fasten the caliper bolts.
8. Put the wheels back on the wheel bolts and fasten the lug nuts. Use the lifting jack to lift the car and take away the jack to lower the car to the ground. Lock the lug nuts using the tire iron.
9. Test the brake by pressing the pedal brake three times and holding it down on the third depression. Release the hold of the brake pedal after ten seconds.
10. Open the car's hood to locate the master cylinder for a brake fluid refill.
Deferring repair is never a wise decision. Always remember the famous quote, "a pound of prevention is worth a pound of cure". So, never compromise your and your loved ones safety!
About the Author
Let a skillful, professional brake repair Capistrano Beach technician repair your car's brake. Head over to Dial1Auto.com where you are assured of a carefully and flawlessly done brake repair.
Brake Rotor HELP??
'99 Malibu - I bought new rotors/pads for my front brakes about 5 months ago, and it seems the rotors have warped. When I brake, the front wheels shake alot.
I popped off the tire and noticed that the rotor was only being held in place by the caliper, I could shake the other side of the rotor. Is this common??
Some rotors have pins (screws/bolts) that secure the rotor to the axle, mine has no sort.
How can I secure the rotor in place, or is it supposed to wobble?
your brake rotor is held in place by the lug studs. When you tighten the wheel the rotor is held tightly against the hub. Your brake caliper is a semi-floating design and is not meant to secure the rotor. When purchasing brake rotors and pads, you may have better luck going with OEM. AC-Delco manufactures brake rotors and pads at a fraction of the cost of the original equipment but yet is made by GM. If you go to the AC-Delco website you can select your vehicle and see what is available for selections. They even have ceramic pads available for most years. When you installed the rotors did you clean off the hub? If the hub is badly rusted or cannot be cleaned well you may have to purchase new hub and bearings so that when you install the rotors they are sitting flat against the hub with minimal runout. You may have overtorqued the wheel when you reinstalled it. The proper torque is 100ft/lbs. Buy a new set of rotors and reinstall them and properly torque the wheels and you should have no more problems.
Driver needed more bolts in heat race
MUSKOGEE — The excitement didn’t take long to get going this week at the Thunderbird Speedway. One of the highlights of the night was in the second modified heat race.
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