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 Sram PG-1050 Road Bicycle Bike 10sp Cassette 12-36t  US $54.99
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Specialized tools for advanced bike jobs
In a chef's personal kitchen, some cooking tools (like knives or bowls) are multipurpose and can be used for a variety of recipes; other tools (like pastry bags or pasta machines) are very specialized. Unless those more specialized tools are in the kitchen of someone who makes pastries or pasta from scratch, they're likely going to remain stored away most of the time.
The same is true of many specialized bike tools: They're designed for specific procedures (such as extracting a crank or removing cogs), activities that you'll either perform infrequently or leave to your local bike shop.
Companies like Park Tool sell hundreds of different types of these tools, many of which are designed to work with specific makes and models of bike components. When shopping for a particular tool, make sure you identify the one that's designed to work with your bike component. If you aren't sure, your local bike shop will be able to advise you.
Here's a list of specialized tools you may have a need for if you want to take your repairs up a notch:
- Chain tool: If you plan on replacing or repairing a chain, you'll need this tool. It's used to break or connect a chain by pushing a pin through the chain links. Some chains, such as SRAM Master Link, do not require a chain tool to be removed and reinstalled. A chain tool is still needed for installing a new chain in order to cut it to the proper length.
- Crank puller: Many bikes require this special tool, which threads into the crank to pull it off the bottom bracket. In these situations, you'll also require a socket set or a dedicated crank bolt tool (usually 14mm or 15mm).
- Cone wrench : You use a cone wrench if you're going to overhaul or make an adjustment to the bearings of your wheel hub. There are a number of standard sizes (usually 13mm for the front and 15mm for the rear), so be sure to check your wheel specifications. It's good to have two of each size.
- Chain whip: A chain whip is used to hold the cogs in place while removing a cassette. Two of these can be used together to remove individual cogs from a freewheel.
- Freewheel tool: A freewheel tool is required for removing the cassette from the rear hub. As always is the case with any specialized tool, be sure to buy one that fits your bike's particular make of freewheel or cassette.
- Bottom bracket tools: Depending on the type of bottom bracket on your bike, you'll need one or more tools. Review your owner's manual or check with your local bike store to identify the manufacturer and model — this'll determine what tools you need.
- Headset tool: To work on the headset, you need two large, flat, open-ended wrenches. These come in different sizes, so be sure to check the owner's manual and buy ones the fit your headset.
- Spoke wrench: Also called a spoke key or nipple spanner, this wrench is used to tighten, remove, or install a spoke. Although spokes may all appear the same to an untrained eye, they require the right-size spoke wrench to prevent damage to the nipples.
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Mountain bike build question?
Hi, i am going to try and build a mountain bike, i have brought the frame and i am confused what rear cassette i would need and what type of chain i would need to but on the bike, i am going to use the bike for everyday use on pavements and i sometimes like to go up hills in high gears. The bike is going to have 24 gears, so what chain would i need? and what cassette speed and size would i need?. Many thanks.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Shimano-HG50-8-speed-cassette-12-21-and-SRAM-PC48-Chain_W0QQitemZ200396600450QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Bikes_GL?hash=item2ea8917482- would this be ok?
Or could i have this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Shimano-Chain-and-Cassette-9-Speed_W0QQitemZ350267376966QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR?hash=item518d900546
Would any of these be ok?
The first one has an 8 speed casset. This means that for a mountain bike with 3 up front, this will give you a 24 speed casset. The downside is that this is obviously worn. Very worn. It is also a reoad cassset. The upside is that it is SRAM.
The second casset is a 9 speed. Probably Deore. That equates to 27 gears and is therefore unsuitable for what you want.
The 12 - 21 ratio means that it has a moderte fast gear (Not as much as most mountain bikes, which tend to have 11 teath on the top gear. The 21 will give you some hill climbing ability on road, but be unsuitable off road unless you are fit.
The off road casset on the Deore has 11 for the fast ring, but 32 for the granny ring. Most mountain bikes will tend towards 34, but a 32 will be fitted after the event. This is better if you are fitter since it means that you have smoother gear changes but have to peddle a bit harder to get up the big hills.
Now what you should be looking at:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=1189
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=55
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=6388
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=5212
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=25655
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=20608
OK, I have given you a middle to top quality option here. The KMC chains are good, but the SRAM chains are best. I would use Power Links to conect these chains, rather than a pin/rivet option. It is easier to repair. Also, keeping a couple of power links in your pocket is a good idea for roadside repairs. You will need a chain tool (But a decent one).
As for the cassets. The SRAM cassets are not bad, but can be a bit heavier and more expensive than their Shimano counterparts. I would probably look at the LX quality casset for this one or the more expensive SRAM.
The problem with the two links that you have given is that they are used. When a chain becomes used it stretches. This stretching will wear out your rear casset, causing the teeth to become hook shaped. As soon as you put a new chain on this it will probably jump all over the place when you change gear. If you want a consistant gear change, then buy new.
Measure the chain. When new this should be 12" for 12 links (Including iner and outer plates). If you measure 12 1/16", it is time to change the chain. If you measure 12 1/8" it is time to change the chain and casset. The litmus test for the casset is if you change the chain and it jumps when you change gear, then it is time to do the casset.
Luck
P.S. The upgrade to 27 gears is a good idea, but you will need to do the shifters and rear derailier. Don't agree with the 11/34, but thats personal taste. However, 24 gears has an advantage. You don't get as clogged up as you do with the 27. Also, the chains are thicker on the 24 than the 27. So I would say that you need to consider your riding. If you are planning on doing off road during the winter, then 24 gears. If you are going to do reasonably maintained trails, then look to 27.
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