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Chainring Bike Road
Checkout Ebay Auctions For The Cheapest Prices
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 NEW Token Chainring Crank Bolt Screws Campy Campagnolo Road Bike Red  US $11.99
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 CAMPAGNOLO 47 TOOTH ROAD BIKE CHAIN RING US $19.99
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Bicycle Touring in Tuscany List Price: $21.95 Sale Price: $15.95  |
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Bicycle Touring in Tuscany is a backroads guide to cycling in Italy. It provides everything you need to plan a tour of Tuscany, Umbria and the Marches: What to bring, where to go, how to transport your bike, how to ride away from the airport. It describes eight multi-day tours with detailed maps of every route. This is your guide to some of the most spectacular riding in the world. |
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FSA Pro Road S10 39T Middle 130mm Black Chainring List Price: $38.99 Sale Price: Too low to display |
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FSA Pro Road Triple 74mm Chainrings.Compatible with Shimano, SRAM and Campagnolo Ultra Narrow 10-SpeedCNC Machined AL-7075-T6Black anodized with laser-etched logosSome are designed to work in specific tooth combinations; parentheses indicate appropriate mating ringItem SpecificationsColorBlackMaterial7075-T6Teeth39teethBolt Pattern5-BoltChainring BCD130mmRing PositionMiddleChain CompatibilityShim/SRAM 10Defined ColorBlack |
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Shimano Ultegra 9-Speed Triple Chainring (Silver, 42 Tooth) List Price: $41.59 Sale Price: $30.33 |
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Ultegra 9-speed FC-6500/6503 chainringsItem SpecificationsColorSilverMaterialAluminumTeeth42teethBolt Pattern5-BoltChainring BCD130mmRing PositionMiddleChain Compatibility9-SpeedDefined ColorSilver |
Featured Article:
A bicycle chain is known for failing at the worst time. This problem of a jumpy or jerky chain can be removed entirely, though, if you simply do some chain maintenance on it regularly. This means that you check your chain at least two times per month or after you ride it about 10 hours if you ride quite a bit. You also want to be sure to do a chain check if you have been riding in bad weather.
You should replace your chain if it is rusted, tight, worn out, or you have ridden more than 1000 miles on it. A new chain with 24 links should measure 12 inches and if it is too long even by 1/16 of an inch, then you want to replace it so that it does not damage the chain ring or sprocket. If you are replacing the chain rings or sprocket, then you need to go ahead and replace the chain so that you do not damage the new chain rings and sprocket.
The metal parts of the chain do not really stretch, but the chain does get longer because of the sleeves and pins wear and tear. Lubricating the chain regularly will help the chain to last longer. If you want to lubricate correctly, then you will want to put just a lubricant drop into each chain pin. This may take you a little time, but it will be well worth it when you increase the life of your chain.
Leave the lubricant on the chain for about 15 minutes and then wipe the excess off with a clean cloth. This will help to keep the chain from catching dirt and grime while riding. It will also keep your chain in tip-top condition.
If you need to clean your bicycle chain, then you can use a degreaser or dish soap. This is a great way to remove lubricant, grime, and grease to help your chain to work better. After you clean it, remember to lubricate it again. You should put the cleaner on the center of the cleaning cloth or sponge and then place it around the chain. By backpedaling, you should clean the chain sufficiently. Make sure that you rinse the rag each turn until you do not get any more dirt on it.
Leave the chain on the bicycle when you are cleaning it to keep it from becoming weaker. While you are getting the chain clean, then you can inspect it for any links that may be too tight. A tight chain can cause the chain to jump and jerk. If you find a link that is tight, then you can loosen it by flexing it between two points that are located at about give links away from the tight link. If you cannot loosen it, then you will have to replace the chain. Keeping your bike chain lubricated and clean will help it to last much longer and work much better.
If your chain seems to be making some noise and cleaning does not stop the noise, then you will have to replace it. If pedaling becomes difficult, then it will be time for a chain change as well. By paying attention to detail and maintenance, then you will have a bike chain that you can use for a long time.
Andrew Caxton contributes adding long articles on bike reviews for http://www.bikecyclingreviews.com Find more publications about bicycle parts at his website.
Newbie Cyclists Training Guide
There's a wide gulf between riding your road bike for fun and doing competitive racing. Usually the first time racer is amazed at how fast the racing crowd really is, at whatever level he or she enters. That gap between club rider and racer is large and difficult to overcome, unless the would-be racer has a plan. And that plan means a training schedule designed for your body type and what type of racing you plan to do.
Training on a road bike does not simply mean going out and riding hard every day. That would be a lot like simply riding for fun. With training, every day has a purpose. With training you've got to keep in mind the effort and recovery cycle. Almost like a weight lifter, who builds upper body muscle one day, then the next day works on his lower body while the upper body is recovering from efforts the previous day.
Below is a typical training schedule for cyclists that can be used as a basis for your workouts:
Sunday: A typical cycling training schedule starts on Sunday. Sunday is race day. Go out and race if you can, or at least find a fast club ride that can push you harder than training alone. If you get dropped, that's fine. We just want to get as hard a workout as possible. Note to those just starting out. If you've never raced before, then do fast club rides first. Once you get to the point where you are not getting dropped and find yourself with some legs left at the end of the ride, then begin considering your first race.
Monday: Monday is a recovery day. Go out in an easy gear and spin. A nice easy ride, under an hour is fine. Your only goal is to flush out lactic acid buildup from the race or fast club ride on Sunday.
Tuesday: Tuesday is sprint day to build speed. Warm up for 30 minutes or so, then practice gaining top speed in the big ring (large front chainring). Here, it's great to have a training partner you can draft. Allow you partner to ride in front and slowly build speed, then practice jumping around in a larger gear, then settle in at a high speed and hold it to your imaginary finish line.
Wednesday: Wednesday is long day to build endurance. Go out with plenty of water and some snacks and ride in the small ring at a pace just above Monday spin pace. You want to push a little, but mainly you want to go at least as far as your Sunday race length, but preferable longer. Say your Sunday club ride is 40 miles, you want to try to get a 50 - 60 mile Wednesday ride in. If you are alone, you should shorten the length here because you don't have the advantage of a draft as you do on a club ride, so keep this in mind when deciding on ride length. Also, if you are a beginner, and are getting dropped on Sundays, then it's fine to start out at 15 miles or so and gradually work your way up.
Thursday: Thursday is interval day. Thursday builds your heart and lungs. Get a good warm up. Then find a larger gear than your Wednesday endurance ride gear, but not a big sprint gear, and jump hard, then sit down and hold it for 45 seconds. Then when your heart rate goes down after a minute or so, jump again for 30 seconds. Then when your heart rate comes down, jump again for 15 seconds. Repeat these sets of intervals as many times as you can. Remember, early on, only do a few sets and build slowly.
Friday and Saturday: Friday and Saturday should not be too strenuous. A nice spin, less than Wednesday length on Friday, followed by a short spin on Saturday is fine. You want to be well rested for the Sunday race or club ride.
Throughout all of this, please remember to go it at your own pace. It is very easy to do too much, and ruin a good week of training. It's far better to start easy and slowly build.
About the Author
Brett writes about cycling, computers and adjustable safety razors. Take a look at his <a href="http://www.adjustablesafetyrazor.com/merkur-safety-razor.shtml">Merkur adjustable safety razor</a> page for info on Merkur's adjustable safey razors, and his <a href="http://www.adjustablesafetyrazor.com/parker-safety-razor.shtml">Parker adjustable safety razor</a> page about Parker's current safety razor offerings.
FSA standard to compact crank?
I recently bought a road bike that came with a FSA SL-K 53/39T 130mm BCD. I am relatively new to cycling and at this point I need all the help I can when attempting to climb hills. Ideally I would like to get a compact crank but since I just invested on the bike I want to stay within a budget. Some people have mentioned that I can change the chainring and get fairly close to a compact. After doing some research I still have questions:
Can I simply change my 39T 130mm BCS for a 36T 110mm BCD, or would I also have to go to a 53/130mm to a 52/110mm?
Will I have to change my Ultegra Derailer and if so to what size/type?
Will I need to change the rear gears?
Does anyone have any other suggestions that will help me get to a compact crank without actually havinf to change the entire crank? Keep in mind that I am working on a tight budget.
Thanks,
A 53/39 is a fairly standard crank. The bolt diameter, 130mm, can't be changed without swapping out the crank. Also, if and when you do swap for a compact, you will need to readjust the front derailuer.
Here's what I suggest:
Make sure you are running a 12/27, that 12 teeth on the smallest cog, and 27 on the largest, in the back. The combination 39/27, front and back, should help some. From there, practice.
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