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Chrome Copper Rivets
Checkout Ebay Auctions For The Cheapest Prices
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 Brooks Team Pro S Brown Chrome Rails Copper Rivets Saddle Womens  US $154.99
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 Brooks Team Pro Brown Chrome Rails Copper Rivets Saddle US $154.99
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Brooks Team Pro Classic Saddle List Price: $135.00  |
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Brooks Team Pro Classic Saddles are the same shape as the Team pro, except the rivets are not hand pounded. |
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Brooks Team Pro Chrome Men's Saddle, Antique Brown with Chrome Rails Sale Price: $108.00 |
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The Team Professional is a classic Brooks saddle created with the needs of the sporting cyclist in mind. This model has been in production for half a century, originating from the old B17 Competition. This saddle is a pleasingly simple design, which truly deserves the description 'timeless classic'. The title Team Professional is embossed on either side just above a precisely hand skived stripe along the side edges, where a little of the glossy leather top surface is removed to reveal the texture and lighter tone of the suede beneath. Large headed copper rivets are hammered by hand, providing the finishing touch. A ladies version is also available, designated the Team Professional S. Both ladies and gents Team Pro saddles are manufactured with traditional chromium plated steel rails, or with copper plated steel rails. Furthermore, lighter versions of this classic design are available with Titanium rails. The ladies model with titanium underpinnings is entitled Finesse. MADE IN ENGLAND |
Featured Article:
Attention homeowners!
You probably know all about rain gutters and how important they are to the health of your house. Guttering must be kept clean and intact to be able to drain water away, or serious, structural damage could be the result. Now, guttering can be bought ready to install, but you can also make it yourself - with the right tools and a bit of motivation.
Who should make their own guttering?
Well, anyone who wants to! Perhaps you simply like to things yourself, and have the time and the inclination.
Perhaps your home requires a special kind of guttering, difficult to find on the shelves anywhere.
Perhaps you like to fix old houses of your own, or of your friends - maybe even for a living someday?
You will be glad to hear there is not much to it:
The necessary equipment
Guttering is made of sheet metal, so you need sheet metal working equipment.
First of all, you need a sheet metal brake to bend the metal into a gutter-shape.
You also need metal shears to cut the sheet metal to size- these are sometimes integrated with the sheet metal brake.
To make half-round or quarter-round gutters, you will also need roll-forming equipment, but the sheet metal brake is just fine for making square- or box-shaped gutters along with v-shaped gutters, the like of which you might see where two perpendicular roof-surfaces meet.
Guttering materials - pros and cons
Common materials for gutters are metal like copper, steel, aluminum and zinc.
Steel would have to be painted, electroplated with zinc or perhaps coated with vitreous enamel.
Otherwise it would rust rapidly. The other materials mentioned do not tarnish as fast as raw steel, provided certain combinations are not made; like copper gutter held up with steel brackets.
Certain metals, when combined physically, will have a galvanic reaction, and one of them will tarnish faster.
For instance, small amounts of steel (such as rivets or screws) combined with the larger amounts of copper in a copper gutter, will oxidize the steel parts much faster than normally - especially in combination with water.
Obviously a poor choice for guttering and any other part you would demand durability from.
It is common to use the same material for gutters brackets and other fasteners, when installing guttering.
That is the safest way to avoid unwanted galvanic reactions - and it looks better.
If you want to use steel for your gutters, you must protect it against rust. That means painting it, or having it powdercoated or electroplated. You could use stainless steel, but it might prove too expensive, and you could reduce its abilities to stay free of rust if you're not sure how to work with it.
Overheating it with an electric cutter/grinder is an example of something you shouldn't do to stainless steel.
Also, using a steel brush or other grind/sanding devices could embed small particles in the stainless steel, which could ruin it.
And never use muriatic acid anywhere near stainless steel either - again, it will be ruined.
The actual work
First of all you need to know more about the shape you are going to make. To reproduce the profile of existing guttering, take down an intact piece of gutter and draw an outline of it on a piece of paper. Then measure the lengths of material between the bends and use those measurements to correct your outline drawing, if necessary.
Now you have the exact dimensions of your guttering, and can get to work with your shears and your sheet metal brake.
Enjoy!
Christian H. From writes about sheet metal fabrication for sheet-metal-brakes.com and is a tool-freak just like you. Hand tools, power tools, air tools, metalworking, woodworking, drywall-crushing, he does it all!
Full Guide About Woodworking Hammers
A wide range of Hammers are available, varying in shape, size and weight. The different styles reflect different uses. Around the house, the average diy'er only really needs one or two type.Visit the Woodworking Plans Website pages for more woodworking and tools articles.
The shape of Hammer heads has not changed much over the years although some modern materials are now used in both the head and handle. Traditionally handle were made of wood fixed through a hole in the head; this allowed the handle to be easily replaced if required. Modern hammers use modern materials and the handles are often built into the head - often with a form of built-in shock absorber to make them easier to use.
Claw Hammer
The most popular hammer for general work, available with a wooden (often hickory), glass-fibre or steel handle; with or without rubber grip. The most popular weights are 455-680g (16 to 24oz). The claw is normally curved, and incorporates a 'V' cut-out to draw nails from timber. The claw can be used to lever up floorboards or where other places where a lever is required; care must be taken (especially with cheaper models) as the force applied can easily weaken the joint between the handle and the head.
Ball Pein
Normally used by engineer's, the pein in this case, is rounded and is usually used for shaping metal and closing rivets. Ball pein hammers are available from 55 - 1100 (4 oz upto 2 lb.), 110 - 165g (8oz 12oz) are the most suitable for general use. Handles are normally wood, usually Ash or Hickory.
Cross and Straight Pein
Again, mainly used for shaping metal, the pein can be at right angles to the handle or parallel with it. The most useful domestically is the cross pein, where the pein can be used for starting panel pins and tacks. Handles are normally wood, usually Ash.
Soft-faced Hammers
Various types are available, with hard and soft rubber, plastic or copper faces. Some come with a choice of faces which are interchangeable. Useful for striking materials such as chrome wing outs, where a steel face would cause damage. In some cases, can replace a mallet for cabinet work.
Sledge Hammer
Used for the heavier jobs, such as driving in stakes or to break up concrete, stone or masonry. For lighter jobs just the weight of the head may be used for blow's, but for heavier work, the hammer is swung like an axe. Wear suitable protective clothing, including safety glasses. Weights 7, 10 and 14 lb.
Joiner's Mallet
Used to drive chisels or to tap wood joints together, where a metal-faced hammer would cause damage or bruising. Note that the head is slightly tapered to ensure correct contact with the work. Both the handle and head are wood, usually Beech or Lignum Vitae.
Club Hammer
Sometimes called a Lump Hammer, it has a double faced head, and is useful for light demolition work, driving steel chisels and masonry nails. As debris is likely to fly, the Different types of Hammers wearing of safety glasses and working gloves is recommended. Weight 1135g (2 1/2 lb) being best suited to domestic work. Handles are normally wood, usually Hickory, or synthetic resin.
Cross Pein Pin Hammer
A lighter version of the Cross and Straight Pein hammer, ideal for light joinery and cabinet work. Weight 55g (4oz).
About the Author
This author writes about Woodworking 4 Home Plans and Woodworking Plans and Ideas.Visit the Woodworking4Home Review website and get 14000 woodworking plans.
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