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Clipless Pedals Shimano
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With regular pedals and toe clips your foot can move a bit to find it best position. With clipless pedals your foot is held in a fixed position so it is important to get the cleat placed properly for your unique bone and muscle structure.
Installing the pedals is easy but putting the cleats on your shoes can be difficult with the variations of adjustments available. Most cleats are adjustable front to back, side to side and rotationally for angle. If you get the set up of your cleats wrong it will put foot, ankle and knee out of alignment. Over time this can lead to pain and potential long term injury.
The easiest route to proper cleat placement is to head into the shop and get me to position them for you. ItâEUR(TM)s cheap and will save you a lot of potentially painful trial and error. If youâEUR(TM)d like to do it yourself, the following guidelines will help you get set up with the least amount of problems.
Fore-Aft Placement
In bare feet, feel for the joint (first metatarsal phlange joint for you anatomy junkies) under the ball of your foot at the base of your big toe. To pin point the location of the joint wiggle your big toe up and down. Put your shoe on and check for that point. Lightly mark the sole with chalk or marker.
Now place the cleat based on the following chart.
Size 36-40 5mm behind the ball of the foot
Size 41-43 7mm behind the ball of the foot
Size 44-46 9mm behind the ball of the foot
above Size 46 10 mm behind the ball of the foot
Check each foot separately as one foot is usually bigger than the other changing where the point of the big toe joint is.
Rotational Placement
Your feet have an angle they naturally sit at. Your cleats should be set up to put your feet in this position on the pedals.
To find your foot angle, sit on a high bench or sturdy table with your knees bent at a 90 degree angle. Holding your feet level, lean forward until you are in your riding position.
Look at the angle your feet sit at. I use a large protractor to measure the angles of each foot.
This adjustment will apply mainly to Shimano and Look pedals. If you use Time pedals there isn't much angle adjustment but the pedals themselves have lateral and rotational float so your foot will find it's correct position naturally. Speedplay pedals have a rotational adjustment on the cleat to adjust for this.
Side to side placement
This one is hard to do on your own as it has to do with pedal stance on the bike. If your feet are too narrow or too wide your knees won't track properly over the pedals.
A few things to look for.
- If your knees flair out wide when pedaling, your feet are probably too close together. Move your cleats towards the inside, closer to the bike. You may also need to put a spacer on your pedal to move it out.
- If your knees lean in towards the top tube it can be indicative of either too wide a stance or fore foot varus. This is a tendency for the big toe to sit higher than the baby toe. 90 per cent of people's feet sit this way because we we're made for walking not riding. Most cycling shoes have a flat toe box, so your foot is forced flat with each pedal stroke. The fix for this is either shimming your cleats, orthotic insoles or a combination of the two. By aligning your foot, you'll get more power to the pedals and reduce the chance of overuse injuries to your knees. I recommend the Lemond Lewedge shims to correct for forefoot tilt.
Leg Length Imbalance
If you feel like you can't ever find the right seat height you may have a leg length imbalance. Riding with an imbalance can lead to knee problems as well as hip and lower back pain. With this if one leg is getting correct extension the other will be over or under extending. This can be from actual bone length differences or a structural imbalance in the hips. If the difference is less than 6 mm then it usually isn't much of a problem, but anything more than this should be corrected. The general rule is to correct for half of the difference, so if discrepancy is 8 mm we adjust your shorter leg 4 mm.
This can be accomplished by shimming your shorter leg cleat and moving the cleat of the long leg back slightly. This is just an example because depending on whether the difference is in your upper or lower leg, I will use different techniques to correct for it. Think of your feet as your base of power. If your base is unstable, you will not get the power to the pedals.
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Tips for Buying the Right Mountain Bike Shoes for You
Mountain bike shoes are an integral part of your mountain biking equipments since the right shoes can make your ride comfortable and help you to handle strenuous pedaling and difficult situations like feet swelling etc. during long mountain biking trips. There are a wide variety of mountain bike shoes available nowadays ranging from Clipless pedal shoes to custom-made mountain bike shoes. However there are some basic as well as individual specific factors which can help you decide and select your mountain bike shoes.
Investing in a good pair of mountain bike shoes is essential since they can comfort your feet and prove enjoyable, safe and efficient while you go mountain biking. Nowadays you can easily find shoes designed for use with clipless pedals as well as shoes with toe clips and standard pedals which give bikers the opportunity to pick and choose. However in the past the choices were limited and clipless pedals did not exist. Bikers had to struggle with shoes having toe-clips and this sometimes caused hindrance while riding. For instance, if there was an accident during the race, the biker could not free his feet from the toe-clips thus causing the biker to fall with the bike and hurt himself as well as damage the bike.
Shimano Pedaling Dynamics
The viable option of Clipless pedals available nowadays is preferred by bikers mainly because of the safety factor that they offer. An alternative to Clipless pedals are Mountain Bike shoes with Shimano Pedaling Dynamics (SPD). So if your bike does not have the option of Clipless pedals, you could very well use mountain Bike shoes with SPD. A known fact is that apart from the general discomfort that bikers experience during mountain biking, there is also the trouble of feet swelling during treacherous terrains. It is therefore wise to use laceless mountain biking shoes. These not only provide comfort during general biking but also allow more room for your feet in case they swell.
Mountain Bike shoes are available in many varieties and options. There are mountain bike shoes having stiff soles for mountain bikers who require pedaling power. Then there are the flexible shoes which can be used while biking as well as trekking in the mountains. The choice is yours. However if the selection process seems confusing you could get the opinion and advice of other experienced biking enthusiasts or the salesperson at the mountain bike retail outlet.
Unlike in the past, mountain bike shoes can be custom-made to suit your liking or your specific requirement or the type of terrain you wish to explore during your next mountain biking trip. The basic principle to follow is that your mountain bikes pedals determine the type of shoes you should wear. Though having mountain bike shoes with either Velcro straps or complex straps instead of laces is a good choice since such shoes can be opened or unhooked. Also some more aspects for consideration while buying your mountain bike shoes is that the shoe should be a little curved at the ball of the foot and the soles should be smooth, tough and inflexible. Basically the shoes should be adaptable while you are mountain biking.
About the Author
Want to find out about tilted pelvis and rotated pelvis? Get tips from the Pelvic Discomfort website.
how much is my bike worth?
Frame: Balance Aluminium (AL 550) (company went out of business but a very good frame),
Front shock: Manitou Minute One (100-130 inches of travel adjustable) (2 year old),
Wheelsets: Mavic Crossride (1 year old),
Saddle: Italian made Selle,
Front Brake: Hayes Nine Disc (2 year old with new disc)
Rear Brake: Shimano LX V brake,
Headset: FSA,
Handlebar: Koshi riser bar
Stem: Easton EA70,
Seatpost: Syncros,
Front derailleur: LX,
Rear Derailleur: XT,
Shifter: Sram Twister,
Crankset: Race Face Turbine,
Pedals: Shimano clipless,
Tires: Brand new Kenda Lite,
Cassette: XT 11-24
Chain: SRAM
the bike was bought but many of the components upgraded http://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeSpecs.aspx?Year=1998&Brand=Balance&Model=Al+550+(01)&Type=bike
Since its old and used (not to mention brandless), you'll not get near what its worth when you sell it. Nice fork and wheelset (If true). The rest of the components are pretty average to slightly above average. Twister shifters will hurt you. V brake on rear sucks compared to the nice disc up front. I'd put it at $700-900........
Shimano XTR pedals
The best you can buy
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