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Have you ever wondered the right way to check your bike? Perhaps you did very long rides with your new bike for the past one month. As we all know it, bicycles consist of different mechanical structures and components. We also know very well that mechanical parts often break down and wear and tear.
Often times, our instincts as cyclists are right. For all the times we have spent riding our treasured bikes, we know how it performs, its limits and when it will give problems. When you suspect your bike needs an inspection, be sure to do it right away.
First off, you will need a pen and paper. You should be prepared to jot down whatever issues that will cause problems for your bike. In addition, this extra note will be very handy for you if you decide to take your bike to the mechanics for repair.
Check the bike frame. See whether there are any cracks, voids or anything related. Although scratches are heartbreaking to find, these are not as serious as any deep gashing or micro cracks. What if you notice there are some cracks? You should then check its welding. See if the crack affects the welding or not. Welding will be the part where one end of the tube joins another end of another tube.
You should never ride your bike even with a minor crack. A crack can propagate and cause a bigger crack, resulting in a structural failure. In fact, you should even double check by flipping your bike upside down for any further cracks. For a new bike, take it back to the dealer for warranty issues.
After your bike frame, you should check the tires. See if there are any cuts or damage, especially the ones that are hiding underneath a layer of dirt. Turn your wheels and see if they spin straight (and smoothly) and not wobble from side to side. Bent spokes and dented rims also pose serious problems which should be rectified early.
Next, examine your brake pads.You will notice that brake pads have a few lines that is perpendicular to the brake pad. The depths of these lines indicate the wear level. If the lines are not visible anymore, then it is time to change brake pads immediately. See if there are any grit or dirt stuck at the brake pads too.
You should also check the brake cable, especially at the brake lever. This is because the brake cable will most likely break at that point. At the brake lever, maximum pressure is applied to the cable. Without the cables, there will be no brakes.
Lastly, you should inspect your crank set. Check for lost chain ring bolts. They are known to fall off without reason. See if the chain ring teeth are bent or not. Usually, the teeth for mountain bikes' chain rings will get bent because of the higher load when riding in harsh conditions and styles.
Now that you know how to check bikes, take the time to read about men's cycling shorts and find out about descente cycling shorts.
The Anatomy Of A Mountain Bike
There's a lot of terminology to learn if you're a mountain biking enthusiast. These enthusiasts have a language all their own, what with "face plants, boing-boing, drillium and wild pig."
However, there is also biking terminology that stays the same, regardless of the age of the user, and that's the terms used for individual parts of the bike. And its important to know these as well.
1. Bottom bracket - A circular hole in the bottom frame of the bike, used to attach the crankset.
2. Brake cable - The cable that connects the brake lever to the brake mechanism.
3. Brake lever - Lever on the handlebar which activates the brakes. The left lever controls the front brake, the right lever controls the rear brake.
4. Chain - The set of circular metal links which transfers power from the chain ring to the cogs. There are two types of bicycle chains: bushing and bushingless.
5. Chainring - Part of the crankset. A sprocket or toothed wheel which attaches to the crank and holds the chain. Bikes can have from two to three chainrings.
6. Crank - Part of the crankset. The lever or "arm" which connects the pedal to the bottom bracket.
7. Derailleur - The device which moves the chain from one chainring to another inorder to shift gears.
8. Down tube - Part of the frame. The tube which runs diagonally from the head tube (supporting the handlebars) to the bottom bracket. Above this is the top tube, which runs from the head tube to the seat.
9. Front shock - A suspension system on the front fork which allows the bike to absorb shocks without transmitting them to the rider.
10. Handlebar - The horizontal bar located at the front of the bike which is used to steer, and which will contain the shifters and break levers and any other items a cyclist wishes to have within easy reach.
11. Headset - The device which houses the bearings that enables the handlebars and front wheel to rotate on the frame of a bike. There are two types of headset, the threaded and the threadless.
12. Hub - The center part of the bicycle wheel, consisting of an axle and ball bearings to allow the wheel to move easily. In addition, the spokes radiate out from the hub to the bicycle rim.
13. Idler pulley- A pulley takes up slack in the chain in order to keep it tight at all times.
14. Nipple - Small threaded cylinders in the bicycle rim which secure a spoke to the rim.
15. Pedal - A short metal bar on which to put your foot, in order to propel the bicyle. The pedal is attached to the crank. Pedals can be simple or come attached with clips in which to put your shoes to increase leverage.
16. Rear shock - On a dual suspension bike, the device that absorbs shocks from the rear tire.
17. Rim - The metal ring to which the bicycle tire is fitted, and to which the breakes apply their force. The interior of the rim holds the spokes which give strength to the tire.
18. Saddle - Also called the seat. Something to sit on!
19. Seat post - The tubular support to which the saddle is connected. This tube is then placed into the seat tube, and can be raised or lowered depending on the rider.
20. Skewer - A metal rod that attaches the wheel to the frame of the bicycle. On one end is a nut to keep the skewer secure, on the other is the release mechanism, which is secured either by a "quick release" toggle, or with bolts.
21. Spindle - Part of the bottom bracket. The free rotating axle to which the crank arms attach.
22. Spokes - The thick wires that join the hub to the rim. The amount of spokes determine how strong the tire will be. Spokes can also be arranged in different patterns, which affect twisting and brake forces.
23. Stem - The metal piece that attaches the handlebar to the steering tube.
24. Wheel hub - See hub.
About the Author
Alastair Hamilton publishes articles at http://www.bikecyclingreviews.com . If you would like more information on this topic please checkout his website at
mountain bikes
I have a Shimano Alivio FC-M410 175mm 22-32-42 MTB crank. Is it possible or can I replace the outer?
chainring with a 48t Deore LX FC-M583 chainring? The crankset has hex bolts which
allow for chainring removal.
chainring with a 48t Deore LX FC-M583 chainring? The crankset has hex bolts which allow for chainring removal. The chainrings are both 4 bolt/104mm. I am building a new bike and long story short, the only cranksets I can find for MTB that have 48t outer rings are "riveted" ringed ones (cheap).. Shimano adds this caveat to the Deore LX chainring "Chainrings from Shimano HollowtechII & Octalink MTB cranksets have different length tabs & are not interchangable"...I would be placing this ring on a square taper BB crank, so I wonder if their warning is something to be concerned about or not.
You will have to change all three because you can only have a 22 tooth maximum difference between the smallest and largest chain ring. You will have to go with 26 tooth small ring and a 36 mid ring.
Shimano 105 2011 groupset
2011 version of Shimano’s everyman groupset
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