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The handbrake pads on a Jaguar E-Type are located within the rear subframe and operate on the top of the discs. While this makes access difficult it is quite possible to change the brake pads without removing the subframe, saving considerable cost/time if you know how to do it. Most of the job is relatively straightforward and the only part where access can makes things difficult is the refitting of the retractor plate designed to pull the calipers apart when the brakes are released. This too can be achieved without too much effort with the right approach. These instructions apply to all 6 cylinder models fitted with self-adjusting handbrakes which is all but the very early models. They are a supplement to the instructions in the Jaguar Workshop Manual.
The image shows the forward side of the subframe with a rear footbrake caliper in the middle and the front of the differential casing in the background at the bottom left. The handbrake calipers are attached to the footbrake calipers by means of two pivot bolts. These bolts also hold the retractor plate in position with its two tines which reach across to the two caliper halves.
The process is as follows:
1. Remove split pin and clevis pin linking the operating lever to the handbrake linkage.
2. Fold down the locking tabs and remove the 7/16" pivot bolts, lock tab and retractor plate.
3. Push the caliper over the top of the disc towards the back of the car. The caliper can be withdrawn from the subframe through the centre opening at the back of the subframe.
4. Loosen the 5/16" nuts clamping the pads to the carriers - there is just enough space between the reinforcing ribs to swing a 12 point ring spanner. In the unlikely event that the clamp bolts aren't badly rusted you can then slide the old pads out with the aid of some tapping. It is more likely you will be completely removing the bolts and replacing these at the same time.
5. Fit the new pads taking care to mount them the correct way round - the triangular edge upwards and the chamfer towards the adjuster bolt which links the two caliper halves.
6. You will now find that there is not enough clearance between the pads for the disk and you will need to reset the self-adjusting mechanism. Simply hold one of the caliper halves and rotate the other anti-clockwise to unscrew the adjuster until the inner faces of the pads are 12 mm apart.
7. Now you're ready to reinsert the calipers. Push them back in and around the top of the disk the way they came out.
8. Line the retractor plate up with the two mounting holes, place the locking tab on top and insert the pivot bolts into the holes hopefully finding the holes in the handbrake calipers with some judicious wiggling. Gently tighten them but not fully as you will probably be taking them back out.
9. This is where the problem occurs. In all probability the tines of the retractor plate won't line up with the holes in the top of the calipers. If the subframe is off the car this is not a problem but with the subframe on there is no way you can get anything in there to bend the tines to get them in the holes. But don't despair. Get an inspection mirror such as dentists use and take a close look to see in which direction each tine is out and by how far. Make a note of this, unscrew the pivot bolts and take the retractor plate back out. Bend the tines according to your estimates and then reinsert. You may have to do this a couple of times but once you have it right you will be able to reach in over the tines with a screwdriver and push them down into the holes.
10. Now you can tighten the pivot bolts properly and push up the locking tabs.
11. Pull the operating lever repeatedly until the ratchet of the self-adjusting mechanism stops clicking.
12. Refit the clevis pin linking the operating lever to the handbrake linkage and fit a new split pin.
13. Adjust the handbrake according to the manual as necessary.
Simon Denman is a classic car enthusiast and the founder of Classic Motoring Limited, a classic car hire company focusing exclusively on the self-drive hire of Jaguar E-Types. Operating since 2004, the company is based in the central Cotswolds, UK.
Brake Hose: Nerve Line of Mercedes Brakes
The brake system is the chief failsafe fitted on Mercedes-Benz cars. It retards the motion of the car when the brake pedal is depressed. Chief part of the Mercedes-Benz brake system is the friction brake assembly, composed of a disc and a pair of brake pads on a disc brake assembly, or a drum and brake shoes on a drum brake assembly. The Mercedes-Benz friction brakes use the traditional clamp-style method of stopping the vehicle, and take the brunt of the Mercedes-Benz brake operation.
As in most assemblies, it is kept well oiled to maintain the parts up to specs. The Mercedes-Benz friction brakes are supplemented by a hydraulic brake assembly. Composed of a brake master cylinder, brake wheel cylinders, metering valve, proportioning valve, pressure differential switch, brake fluid tank, and a network of brakes hoses, the Mercedes-Benz hydraulic brakes convert brake pedal input hydraulically, which is then used to operate the brake system.
At the center of the Mercedes-Benz hydraulic brakes assembly is the master cylinder. It is a piston-operated pump that facilitates the flow of brake fluid from the brake fluid tank to the brake hoses, and into the wheels. The tank is fitted with a sensor that light up a warning when brake fluid runs low. The system has provision parts like the proportioning and metering valves and pressure differential switch that streamlines the pressure in the brake fluid flow.
When the brake pedal is depressed, the master cylinder pistons push to a linkage and draw in ambient air, pressuring the cylinder. The amount of pressure that the master cylinder draws in is proportional to the foot pressure applied on the brake pedal. The pressure accumulated is used to pump the hydraulic fluid into the supply line of brake hoses. The pressurized hydraulic fluid, when it reaches the friction brake assembly fitted on each wheel, then streamlines the friction brake operation.
As a safeguard against supply interruption, the hydraulic brakes assembly of the Mercedes-Benz has two independent circuits, each circuit composed of a brake hose network supplying the wheels in pairs. If one circuit leaks out hydraulic fluid, the car unavoidably loses braking power. In such eventuality, the two-circuit setup of the Mercedes-Benz hydraulic brakes isolates one circuit from the leak of the other so that the brake system still has supply of hydraulic fluid. Hydraulic fluid leak happens when the brake hose gets brittle from the pressurized fluid it carries within the brake system. Since the brake hose is the nerve line of the hydraulic brake assembly, brake hoses are often replaced regularly.
Made up of flexible, heavy-duty rubber and fitted with a metal mounting end, the Mercedes brake hose runs from under the hood to all four corners of the car. On the average, the hydraulic brake assembly of a Mercedes-Benz delivers up to 1,000 pounds per square inch of pressure so that, operationally, brake hoses are exposed to high-pressure fluid flow. They are considered maintenance items in the Mercedes-Benz brake system, not unlike the brake pads and brake shoes that necessitates regular replacement.
About the Author
Dwyane Thomas is a part time cook and full-time auto-enthusiast. This 31-year old Civil and Environmental graduate is a consultant at one of the engineering firms in Pennsylvania.
How do I fit a rear disc brake caliper to my Mountain Bike?
I am aware of an attachment that you can get to fit to the rear of your bike to allow you to attach a brake caliper for disc brakes. I think it just clamps on or something. My bike is a bit old and does not have mounting points.
Does anyone know where I can gut a mount from or who manufactures them?
Trying to adapt an older bike like yours to disc brakes will probably not work very well. The mounts for disc brakes have to be very precisely aligned for the brakes to work well. You would also have to buy new wheels, unless your current wheels have disc compatible hubs. A far better and cheaper solution would be to buy a really good set of v-brakes, they would work almost as well as a good disc brake setup which could not be achieved on your old bike.
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