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Double Front Derailleur
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 SRAM Force Front Derailleur, Braze-on, Double, 88 grams  US $53.09
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 Shimano Ultegra 6700-G Double 10 speed Braze-On Front Derailleur US $59.99
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GMC Topkick Dual-Suspension Mountain Bike List Price: $299.99 Sale Price: $298.95  |
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The GMC Topkick 21-Speed Mountain Bike can handle whatever road you ride. The full-suspension, strong aluminum frame utilizes a floating beam suspension design and is mated to a Zoom suspension fork that features elastomer/spring technology. The Topkicks drivetrain starts with Microshift push shifters. These shifters control Shimanos tried and true TZ-30GS derailleur. The drivetrain finishes up with a strong aluminum wheelset featuring V-shape rim profile and high-flange alloy hubs. Stop on a dime with Promax disk brakes on the front and rear. These brakes are vastly superior to rim brakes, especially under adverse road conditions. True to its GMC roots, this bicycle is rugged, good looking, and built for the long haul. Boasting a full-suspension, extra-strong aluminum frame, the GMC Topkick mountain bike is an ideal choice for both trail riding and rough city riding. The frame employs a floating beam suspension design mated to a Zoom suspension fork with elastomer/spring technology. This gives the bike a smooth, steady performance even on rough terrain. The Topkick's drivetrain, meanwhile, is outfitted with Microshift push shifters that control Shimano's tried-and-true TZ-30GS derailleur. The drivetrain also offers a strong aluminum wheel set with a V-shape rim profile and high-flange alloy hubs. And to keep you stopping smoothly in any circumstance, the Topkick boasts front and rear Promax disc brakes. Disc brakes are vastly superior to rim brakes, especially under adverse road conditions. True to its GMC roots, the Topkick mountain bike is rugged, good looking, and built for the long haul. Specifications: Frame: 26-inch full-suspension aluminum MTB frame Fork: Zoom CH-386 suspension fork, 65mm travel Shocks: Kind Shock, adjustable to 650 pounds Chain: KMC Z51 Crankset: Alloy ISA 335P, 28/38/48, L170mm Front derailleur: Falcon MF 31 T Rear derailleur: Shimano RD-TZ30GS SIS, 7 speed Shifters: Microshift TS-50 ADII index L3/R7 Brake levers: GP 30 AP aluminum Brakes: LCHI DSK-320 disc brakes, 160mm Rims: Alloy black 26 x 1.5 inches Tires: Kenda black with yellow band 700 x 25C Stem: A-head TDS63K-8, EXT: 100mm, 15D Handlebar: HL-MTB 153, W: 600mm, R: 30mm Saddle: Velo, black padded Seat post: Alloy micro-adjust 27.2 x 300mm with quick-release The GMC Topkick 21-Speed Mountain Bike features a full-suspension, strong aluminum frame that utilizes a floating beam suspension design that is mated to a Zoom suspension fork with elastomer/spring technology. The Topkick's drivetrain starts with Microshift push shifters. These shifters control Shimano's tried and true TZ-30GS derailleur. The drivetrain finishes up with a strong aluminum wheelset featuring V-shape rim profile and high-flange alloy hubs. Stopping is handled by Promax disk brakes on the front and rear. These brakes are vastly superior to rim brakes, especially under adverse road conditions. True to it's GMC roots, this bicycle is rugged, good looking, and built for the long haul. GMC Topkick Mountain Bike Specifications Frame: 26-inch full suspension aluminum MTB frame Fork: Zoom CH-386 suspension fork 65mm travel Shocks: Kind Shock adjustable 650 pounds Chain: KMC Z 51 Crankset: Alloy ISA 335P 28x38x48 L170mm Front Derailleur: Falcon MF 31 T Rear Derailleur: Shimano RD-TZ30GS SIS 7SPD Shifters: Microshift TS-50 ADII index L3/R7 Brake Levers: GP 30 AP aluminum Brakes: LCHI DSK-320 disk brake 160mm Rims: Alloy black 26-inch X1.5 Tires: Kenda black with yellow band 700X25C Stem: A-head TDS63K-8 EXT:100mm 15D Handlebar: HL-MTB 153 W: 600mm R:30mm Sadle: Velo black padded Seat Post: Alloy micro adjust 27.2 X 300mm with quick-release Amazon.com Bicycle Buying Guide Finding the Right Bike To really enjoy cycling, it's important to find a bicycle that works for you. Here are some things to keep in mind when you're in the market for a new bike: The Right Ride In general, bikes are broken down into three major categories: Road and Racing Bikes--As a general rule, road and racing are built for speed and longer distances on paved surfaces. Thinner tires, lightweight 29-inch (700c) wheels and drop bars that allow for a more aerodynamic position are the norm. Most road bikes, regardless of price, offer many gears for tackling both hilly and flat terrain. Mountain Bikes--With their larger tires, hill-friendly gearing and upright position, mountain bikes are very popular for all types of riding, both on pavement and off. Mountain bikes that are designed specifically for rugged trail use typically feature a suspension fork. Some may have rear suspension, as well. A quick change of the tires on any mountain bike--even one that you use regularly on trails--adds to its versatility and makes it a worthy street machine. Comfort/Cruiser Bikes--For tooling around on bike paths, light trails, or for cruising a quiet beach-side lane, comfort/cruiser bikes are the ticket. With a super-relaxed riding position, padded seats, and limited or no gearing, these bikes are made for enjoying the scenery and having fun with the family. The Right Price A bike's price boils down to three essentials: frame materials, bike weight, and component quality and durability. Entry-level--You'll find a wide range of comfort and cruiser bikes in this category, as well as some lower-end mountain bikes and road bikes. Most will have steel frames and components that are designed to last for several years with frequent use. Mid-range--Bikes in this range may feature a lighter aluminum frame with mid-range components that keep performing after miles of use. If you're looking for a quality bike that is relatively lightweight and will stand up to abuse, this is the "sweet spot." Most serious commuter and touring bikes fall into this category, as do mid-range mountain bikes with a decent front suspension. High-end--Racers and serious enthusiasts who expect lightweight, high-performance components will want to stick to this category. For road bikes, exotic frame materials (carbon fiber, titanium) and ultra-lightweight components can add thousands to the price tag. Mountain bikes in this class often feature advanced front and rear suspension technology, as well as components designed to handle lots of rugged trail action. The Right Size Fit is crucial for comfort, control, and proper power and endurance on a bike. Here are some basic bike fit tips: Stand-over Height--To find out if a bike's overall height fits your body, measure your inseam. Next, determine how much clearance you'll need between your crotch and the top tube of the bike. For a mountain bike, you'll want three to five inches of clearance. A road bike should offer between one and two inches of clearance, while a commuter bike should have two to four inches. Compare the stand-over height for a given bike to your measurements (inseam + clearance) to determine the right bike height. Top Tube Length--You can measure your torso to get a good estimate of proper top tube length. First, make a fist and extend your arm. Measure from the center of your fist to the end of your collarbone (the part that intersects your shoulder). Next, measure your torso by placing a book against your crotch with the spine facing up. Measure from the spine to the bottom of your throat (the spot between your collarbones). Finally, add the two measurements (arm length + torso length), divide the number in half and subtract six inches. This is your approximate top tube length. Compare this number to a bike's posted top tube length. You can allow for about two inches longer or shorter, as most bikes can be adjusted via stem length/height and saddle fore/aft position to make fine adjustments to the fit. Bikes for Women--Proportionally, women tend to have a shorter torso and longer legs than men. Bike makers design women's bikes that offer a shorter top tube and many comfort/cruiser bikes built for women may also provide more stand-over clearance. The Right Accessories When you make a bike purchase, don't forget these crucial add-ons: Helmet (this is a must!) Seat pack Lock Hydration pack, or water bottles and bottle cages Spare tubes Portable bike pump Gloves |
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Shimano SL-BS64 Ultegra Bar End Shifter Set (8-Speed) List Price: $84.99 Sale Price: $67.76 |
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Shimano SL-BS64-8 eight-speed double/triple bar end shifters.Friction-compatible right leverThis shifter is not compatible with 8-speed Dura Ace; packaging calls out Dura Ace but the shifter itself is UltegraItem SpecificationsWeight83gWeight83gCassette SpacingShimano/SRAM 8Shifter/Derailleur CompatibilityShimanoEnd TypeShimano/Sram |
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SRAM Al FD Clamp Adaptor List Price: $0.00 |
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"No colors anymore I want them to turn black." We'll never know if the product managers at SRAM are Stones fans, but this is surely what they had in their heads when they developed their Red Black components. The good news is that you can get SRAM Red in two colors, and if you're a fan of all black, then this Red Black Front Derailleur needs to be part of your new component kit.Like its standard Red counterpart, this front mech is a bit different from the less expensive Force front derailleur. From a structural standpoint, the one distinct difference between Red Black and Force is that Red has a hardened titanium cage in contrast to Force's plated steel part. This makes the Red derailleur nearly 20g lighter than Force. The shaping is all the same and allows for quick and smooth shifting. That said, the real difference in front shifting technology between Red and Force, the most important details, are on the other end of the shifter cable -- at the left DoubleTap shift lever.The Red Black Front Derailleur works equally well whether you're using a compact crankset (50/34) or a standard one (53/39). Please note that SRAM makes this derailleur in a Braze-on style only.Product FeaturesMaterial: [body] aluminum; [cage] titaniumSpeeds: 10Pull Type: Mount: braze-on, 31.8mm clamp, 34.9mm clampCapacity: Compatible Components: Red, Force, Rival, ApexWeight: (braze-on) 58 g, (clamp) 72 gRecommended Use: cyclingManufacturer Warranty: 2 years |
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Shimano RD-4500 Tiagra Rear Derallieur (SS Short Cage, 9-Speed, Silver) List Price: $54.99 Sale Price: $39.99 |
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Shimano Tiagra Rear Derallieurs.High-precision action for 7-, 8- or 9-speed systemsLarge 11-tooth pulleys run more quietly and wear evenlyItem SpecificationsColorSilver/BlackWeight265gIntended UseRoadCassette SpacingShimano/SRAM 9Shifter/Derailleur CompatibilityShimanoLargest Cog27teethChain Wrap Capacity29teethDerailleur ActionTop-Normal (Traditional)Cage LengthShort |
Featured Article:
With so much attention on full suspension and carbon fiber you would think that steel hardtails were dead. Well I'm glad to be able to tell you that they are alive and kicking. With the explosion of 29" wheeled bikes, the steel hardtail has made a come back. All of the properties we've grown to love about steel bikes are present in the Soma Juice. Tough but smooth riding. Reasonably light with a snappy feel on the trail. The Soma Juice is a jack of all trades trail bike that can adopt whatever personality you'd like.
The look is distinctive with the curved top tube creating a unique profile and giving a ton of crotch clearance. With rear entry drop outs and a derailleur hanger, the Juice can be built up single speed or geared, depending on your mood. It has enough tire clearance on the rear to run a 2.3" tire with plenty of mud clearance.
Over a season of riding the Soma Juice, I had it built up single speed, geared and as a road bike with drop bars and skinny tires. I spent most of the time racing it during endurance events ( 8 hour solo) as a single speed. The handling was solid with the usual 29" wheel stability at high speeds. The combination of short wheel base and rigid fork made for snappy climbing out of the saddle. In technical terrain, the low bottom bracket made for the occasional pedal strike but it's no worse than most bikes.
It's hard to quantify the differences in how a bike rides as it is mainly feel, but the Soma Juice is a fun bike to ride. I had my best races finishes of the last 5 years on this bike, so this bike holds a special place in my heart. The Juice has the advantages of the 29" wheel with the old school feel of a good steel hardtail. Built up with a Bontrager carbon rigid fork, Chris King wheels and On One Mary Bar, the complete bike came in at 23 lbs.
Made from Tange Prestige heat treated double butted tubing, the Juice strikes a balance between price, ride quality and weight. They could have made it light making it from Reynolds 853 or True Temper OX Platinum but it would have increased the price dramatically. Available from Soma as just a frame you can build it up yourself or get a complete bike from your favorite shop. The Soma Juice is the kind of bike that turns heads but still works great out on the trail. You won't see many of them on the local group ride or race scene so you can have something unique without breaking the bank.
It's in you to become a better cyclist. Helping you get there is my goal. Equipment, riding skills, fitness and nutrition all have to be dialed in to reach your potential. To take your next step on that journey visit http://www.cyclecambridge.com.
Drive shaft - plastic injection molding machine - small plastic injection molding machine Manufactur
An automobile may use a longitudinal shaft to deliver power from an engine/transmission to the other end of the vehicle before it goes to the wheels. A pair of short drive shafts is commonly used to send power from a central differential, transmission, or transaxle to the wheels.
A truck double propeller shaft
Main article: Front-engine, rear-wheel drive layout
In front-engined, rear-drive vehicles, a longer drive shaft is also required to send power the length of the vehicle. Two forms dominate: The torque tube with a single universal joint and the more common Hotchkiss drive with two or more joints. This system became known as Systme Panhard after the automobile company Panhard et Levassor patented it.
Most of these vehicles have a clutch and gearbox (or transmission) mounted directly on the engine with a drive shaft leading to a final drive in the rear axle. When the vehicle is stationary, the drive shaft does not rotate. A few, mostly sports, cars seeking improved weight balance between front and rear, and most commonly Alfa Romeos or Porsche 924s, have instead used a rear-mounted transaxle. This places the clutch and transmission at the rear of the car and the drive shaft between them and the engine. In this case the drive shaft rotates continuously as long as the engine does, even when the car is stationary and out of gear.
Early automobiles often used chain drive or belt drive mechanisms rather than a drive shaft. Some used electrical generators and motors to transmit power to the wheels.
In British English, the term "drive shaft" is restricted to a transverse shaft that transmits power to the wheels, especially the front wheels. A drive shaft connecting the gearbox to a rear differential is called a propeller shaft, or prop-shaft. A prop-shaft assembly consists of a propeller shaft, a slip joint and one or more universal joints. Where the engine and axles are separated from each other, as on four-wheel drive and rear-wheel drive vehicles, it is the propeller shaft that serves to transmit the drive force generated by the engine to the axles.
A drive shaft connecting a rear differential to a rear wheel may be called a half shaft. The name derives from the fact that two such shafts are required to form one rear axle.
Several different types of drive shaft are used in the automotive industry:
The slip-in-tube drive shaft is a new type that also helps in crash energy management. It can be compressed in the event of a crash, so is also known as a collapsible drive shaft.
Four wheel and all-wheel drive
These evolved from the front-engine rear-wheel drive layout. A new form of transmission called the "transfer box" was placed between transmission and final drives in both axles. This split the drive to the two axles and may also have included reduction gears, a dog clutch or differential. At least two drive shafts were used, one from the transfer box to each axle. In some larger vehicles, the transfer box was centrally mounted and was itself driven by a short drive shaft. In vehicles the size of a Land Rover, the drive shaft to the front axle is noticeably shorter and more steeply articulated than the rear shaft, making it a more difficult engineering problem to build a reliable drive shaft, and which may involve a more sophisticated form of universal joint.
Modern light cars with all-wheel drive (notably Audi or the Fiat Panda) may use a system that more closely resembles a front-wheel drive layout. The transmission and final drive for the front axle are combined into one housing alongside the engine, and a single driveshaft runs the length of the car to the rear axle. This is a favoured design where the torque is biased to the front wheels to give car-like handling, or where the maker wishes to produce both four-wheel drive and front-wheel drive cars with many shared components.
Drive shaft for Research and Development (R&D)
The automotive industry also uses drive shafts at testing plants. At an engine test stand a drive shaft is used to transfer a certain speed / torque from the combustion engine to a dynamometer. A "shaft guard" is used at a shaft connection to protect against contact with the drive shaft and for detection of a shaft failure. At a transmission test stand a drive shaft connects the prime mover with the transmission.
A 1913 FN (Fabrique Nationale), Belgium, 4cylinders and shaft drive
A 1923 BMW R32, with a shaft-drive, boxer twin engine
Drive shafts have been used on motorcycles almost as long as there have been motorcycles. As an alternative to chain and belt drives, drive shafts offer relatively maintenance-free operation and long life. A disadvantage of shaft drive on a motorcycle is that gearing is needed to turn the power 90 from the shaft to the rear wheel, losing some power in the process. On the other hand, it is easier to protect the shaft linkages and drive gears from dust, sand and mud.
The best known motorcycle manufacturer to use shaft drive for a long time since 1923 is BMW. Among contemporary manufacturers, Moto Guzzi is also well-known for its shaft drive motorcycles. The British company, Triumph and all four Japanese brands, Honda, Suzuki, Kawasaki and Yamaha, have produced shaft drive motorcycles.
Motorcycle engines positioned such that the crankshaft is longitudinal and parallel to the frame are often used for shaft driven motorcycles. This requires only one 90 turn in power transmission, rather than two. Moto Guzzi, BMW, Triumph, and Honda use this engine layout.
Motorcycles with shaft drive are subject to shaft effect where the chassis climbs when power is applied. This is counteracted with systems such as BMW's Paralever, Moto Guzzi's CARC and Kawasaki's Tetralever.
On a power-driven ship, the drive shaft, or propeller shaft, usually connects the transmission inside the vessel directly to the propeller, passing through a stuffing box or other seal at the point it exits the hull. There is also a thrust block, a bearing to resist the axial force of the propeller. As the rotating propeller pushes the vessel forward, any length of drive shaft between propeller and thrust block is subject to compression, and when going astern to tension. Except for the very smallest of boats, this force isn't taken on the gearbox or engine directly.
Cardan shafts are also often used in marine applications between the transmission and either a propeller gearbox or waterjet.
Cardan shafts are used in some diesel locomotives (mainly diesel-hydraulics, such as British Rail Class 52) and some electric locomotives (e.g. British Rail Class 91). They are also widely used in diesel multiple units.
Drive shafts in Bicycles
The drive shaft has served as an alternative to a chain-drive in bicycles for the past century, although never becoming very popular. A shaft-driven bicycle is described as an "Acatane", from one of their early makers. When used on a bicycle, a drive shaft has several advantages and disadvantages:
Drive system is less likely to become jammed or broken, a common problem with chain-driven bicycles
The use of a gear system creates a smoother and more consistent pedaling motion
The rider cannot become dirtied from chain grease or injured by the chain from "Chain bite", which occurs when clothing or even a body part catches between the chain and a sprocket
Lower maintenance than a chain system when the drive shaft is enclosed in a tube, the common convention
More consistent performance. Dynamic Bicycles claims that a drive shaft bicycle consistently delivers 94% efficiency, whereas a chain-driven bike can deliver anywhere from 75-97% efficiency based on condition.
Greater clearance: with the absence of a derailleur or other low-hanging machinery, the bicycle has nearly twice the ground clearance
For bicycle rental companies, a drive-shaft bicycle is less prone to be stolen, since the shaft is non-standard, and both noticeable and non-maintainable. This type of bicycle is in use in several major cities of Europe, where there have been large municipal funded, public (and automatic) bicycle rental projects.
A drive shaft system weighs more than a chain system, usually 1-2 pounds heavier
At optimum upkeep, a chain delivers greater efficiency
Many of the advantages claimed by drive shaft's proponents can be achieved on a chain-driven bicycle, such as covering the chain and gears with a metal or plastic cover
Use of lightweight derailleur gears with a high number of ratios is impossible, although hub gears can be used
Wheel removal can be complicated in some designs (as it is for some chain-driven bicycles with hub gears).
Categories: Vehicle parts | Automotive technologies | Mechanical power control | Mechanical power transmissionHidden categories: Articles lacking sources from December 2007 | All articles lacking sources
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chain falls off front derailleur AND rubs?
I have an unusual problem with my bike. It is a Scattante R660 road bike with full Ultegra 6600 components and a Truvativ Rouleur crankset (53/39 double).
When I have the bike on the smallest gear (small chainring on the front, large chainring in the back), the chain rubs against the inside of the front derailleur (FD) cage.
However, when I shift from large to small chainring in the FD with the rear derailleur on the smallest setting (largest chainring closest to the bike), the chain overshoots every 2-3 times I shift, even though the chain is rubbing against the FD cage as I mentioned before. What's more is that the low adjustment is as far as it can go, so I can't really adjust the FD any more, even if I wanted to (which I don't, since the chain rubs pretty hard).
I took it to my local bike shop, and they said they couldn't do anything about it. Their suggestion was to buy a plastic chain guard like the dog fang. Has anyone else had this problem?
I'm going to try and keep this short. 1st a lot of bikes tend to have the chain come off at times if you have the chain on the largest cog in back before you shift the front down to the 39. The chain line causes this. This shifting pattern you explained is something I don't do and is not common with seasoned riders. Try planning your shifting a little more in advance.
Next the rubbing and the fact you can't adjust the shifter any further in is a problem. This could indicate a mis-aligned front shifter cage. Your ft. cage should be aligned with the chain while on a middle cog in back. It's possible you need to adjust this alignment.
A 2nd possibility is that your chain rings are aligned too far out-board. That is if you flip you bike over pull the chain off the chain rings and look at them by lining up your eye from behind the middle rear cog. (got that?) Your chain rings should be lined up in the middle of your cassette. If they aren't you have an alignment problem. This could be that the drive side crank arm isn't tight or properly seated on the BB spindle. Or it's even possible your frame is off. If someone put this bike together or replaced a crank or BB, it's possible that the wrong spindle length was used.
I hope I was clear in what I said.
Did your LBS say why it was happening? Not all shops are alike. Some employ kids with little experience and don't work on high end bikes much. If fact a friend of mine brought his bike in to a high end shop for a new crank and BB install. He supplied the parts. He didn't know had purchased the wrong length spindle. A poor mechanic couldn't figure out the alignment problem. The bike was there 3 days. He went back and talked about it with another mechanic. This other guy spotted the wrong sized spindle in a minute. He had the correct size and just traded my friend his for the one the store supplied. He left 20 minutes later with a good working bike. The moral of the story? Get more than 1 opinion.
- I guess I couldn't keep it short.
Blogs Last updated: October 13, 17:15
Specialized's CruX Pro Carbon cyclo-cross flagship is a new model for 2011, but the carbon frame is essentially the old S-Works Tricross with a few minor tweaks and an updated look – and similar pros and cons.
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