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Dual Control Shifter
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 NEW Shimano XT ST-M765 Hydraulic 9 Dual Control Bike Shifters Disc Brake Levers  US $84.99
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 NEW Shimano XT ST-M770 Dual Control 9 Speed Bike Shifters V-Brake Levers US $139.99
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The Pontiac division of General Motors introduced the GTO (Gran Turismo Omologato) in 1964. The GTO survived a relatively brief but eventful span that included 11 model years and 3 vehicle generations. GM did eventually manage to re-launch the Pontiac GTO in 2004 through Holden, an Australian subsidiary, but that amounted to an uninspired three-year period that failed to capture the public's imagination.
The original 1964 GTO was an option package on the Pontiac LeMans, available as either a convertible, hardtop coupe, or a 2-door coupe. The Tempest line, which included the GTO, was restyled for 1965 so that the car was longer and produced more power. In 1966, the intermediate line underwent a redesign again. Pontiac gave the Tempest the Coke-bottle body shape that was sweeping the American automotive landscape at the time.
The 1967 GTO for sale marked the final model year of that first generation, and this important because the differences between the first and second generations would be dramatic. The following year the Pontiac GTO would adopt the A-body that would serve as the basis for other notable GM muscle cars, such as the Chevrolet Chevelle and El Camino. GM would also use a variation of the A-body as the basis for the Monte Carlo introduced in 1970.
The 1967 GTO for sale came available in three body styles. Pontiac sold 65,000+ hardtops, 9,500+ convertibles, and 7,000+ sport coupes. Visually, Pontiac made the 1967 GTO for sale distinct from its predecessors by replacing the louver-covered taillights with eight separate taillights, four on each side. In addition, the grille now contained chrome, Pontiac had moved the GTO emblems to the chrome rocker panels, and Rally II wheels with colored lug nuts were available as an option.
The 1967 GTO for sale also underwent mechanical changes that stood it apart. Pontiac replaced the Tri-Power carburetion system with an all-new four-barrel Rochester Quadrajet carburetor. The 389 V8 that was available the three previous years got a wider cylinder bore so that the displacement was now 400 cubic-inches (6.6 L). This new engine was available in three configurations: economy, standard, and high output.
The economy edition used a two-barrel carburetor instead of the Rochester Quadrajet, which limited it to 255 horsepower and 397 pound-feet of torque at 4400 rpm. The standard version of the engine, which did use the Rochester Quadrajet, produced 335 horsepower at 5000 rpm and 441 pound-feet at 3400 rpm. The high output engine traded a minute amount of torque for a great deal of power. It hammered out 360 horsepower at 5100 rpm and 438 pound-feet of torque at 3600 rpm.
Emission controls are present on the engines of GTOs that GM sold in California. In addition, like all vehicles at that time, the GTO received new safety equipment, which a recent federal law had mandated. This new equipment included four-way emergency flashers, an energy-absorbing steering wheel and steering column, a padded instrumentation panel, and non-protruding control knobs.
In addition, Pontiac replaced the two-speed automatic transmission with the TH-400, a three-speed Turbo-Hydramatic transmission. This new transmission included the Hurst Performance Dual-Gate shifter, which allowed for either automatic or manual shifting. Front disc brakes were available as an option for the first time.
Like all cars of this time, the Pontiac GTO is prone to rust, so the enthusiast in the market for a 1964 GTO for sale should pay particular attention to this aspect. However, purchasing a GTO at or around $10,000 will likely involve purchasing a GTO that requires substantial bodywork.
Dan Legal is a member of the web team that runs the website LemonFree.com. LemonFree is a car search engine which currently has over 2 million new and used cars for sale. If your trying to locate a 1967 GTO For Sale; trust LemonFree to help you find your next car today!
How To Choose The Best Mountain Bike For Years Of Enjoyment
Buying a mountain bike can seem like a big decision but you can help yourself by getting educated about the important aspects of the bike. The following six areas should be thought about before you make your next mountain bike purchase.
Six Points:
1. Price
2. Frame
3. Brakes
4. Shifters
5. Tires
6. Fit
Price:
The best mountain bikes can cost thousands of dollars and can cost as little as several hundred dollars. The first place to start your search is to determine the price you are willing to pay. A good beginner mountain bike will cost between 400 and 800 dollars depending on where you buy it. To insure that you won't be replacing your mountain bike in the near future don't go the route of buying the Walmart specials. Many people make this very mistake when start out to buy a mountain bike. Rather than getting the inexpensive mountain bike in the beginning and replacing it within a year, you would have been better off with the higher priced mountain from the start. The Iron Horse Mountain Bike is a good example of a popular mountain bike at an affordable price.
Brakes:
Obviously the best mountain bikes have the best brakes. The decision you have to make is whether to use disk brakes or rim brakes. The cost of disk brakes are higher but the braking power is superior. Rim brakes offer a lighter, lower cost alternative but you will sacrifice some performance particularly in wet conditions. The Diamondback Recoil Full Suspension Mountain Bike is a fine example of a high quality mountain bike that incorporates dual disk brakes.
Shifters:
Mountain bikes use two different types of shifters, the Gripfit and the Rapidfire shifters. The Rapidfire shifters are located under the brake lever and Gripfit shifters are incorporated into the handlebars that work similar to a motorcycle. It does come down to a matter of preference but the better riders seem to refer the Rapidfire shifters over the Gripfit shifters.
Tires:
It is important to have the larger knobby tires if you are going to be spending most of your time off road. You will get better traction and more control on the uneven terrain. If you are using the mountain bike for mainly street use then you can get away with the smaller knobs for less resistance on the flatter paved surfaces. If you are going to use the mountain bike for off road and on road then look for a tire with a ridge in the middle and medium sized knobs on the side of the tire.
Fit
To get the best mountain bike that suits you well it is important to get the right size bike. A good starting point would be to have a three inch clearance above the top frame tube while you are straddling the bike. It does matter what terrain you will be ridding on. If you are going to be riding a bit more aggressively you can increase this to four to six inches of clearance to allow for ease of operation over very uneven surfaces. As you are sitting on the bike and your feet on the pedals try and maintain a 30 degree angle with the leg at the bottom of the apex. Generally speaking 30 degrees of knee bend is a good place to start.
That's the basics you need to know before buying the best mountain bike for yourself. Choose wisely when starting out and you can expect to get many miles out of your mountain bike. If you are looking to buy a durable mountain bike that meets the strictest standards of many advanced riders than you have to checkout the Iron Horse Warrior Mountain Bike
About the Author
I have been a riding enthusiast for many years and I have a very good understanding about many different types of bikes. When I ride on the road I ride a quality road bike. When I want to take it off road I ride a quality mountain bike. There are several mountain bikes I can recommend. One of them is the Diamond Response Sport Mountain Bike.
What type of front derailleur can I fit? ?
I am upgrading the gearing/drive on my 2007 Kona Fire Mountain with a Shimano XT M770 rear derailleur, XT M770 cassette & chain, dual control shifters etc, but am not sure which type of M770 front derailluer to buy, there seems to be a couple of different types which are the 'E Type BB mount' and the 'Top swing' models, does it matter which one of these I go for?
Cheers.
Front derailleurs can be tricky because you have to choose the right clamp diameter, swing type, and cable pull. Fortunately, your bike will take several different front derailleurs.....and fortunately, many derailleurs now are made with built-in adaptability.
Your bike has top-routed cable which goes down to the derailleur, so make sure you get one that uses top-pull. Most of them nowadays have multi-clamp designs that will do either top- or bottom- pull....just be sure yours will do top (most do, but there are still some dedicated-pull models out there).
As far as swing, you can use either one on your bike. Some frame/suspension designs require that you use bottom-swing so that you don't have clearance issues with the linkages or tubing, but yours is the simple plain-jane frame design so you can pick either one.
E-type derailleurs aren't common...mainly used on special frame design full-suspension bikes. You could use one on your bike if you wanted to, but you'd have to be sure that the bottom bracket was compatible for an e-type, too.
Clamp size is the other issue....where the derailleur mounts to the frame. Most of them nowadays are sized for the larger diameter and come with reducer bushings for use on smaller tubes. If the derailleur doesn't come with them, you can buy them for a couple bucks at a shop (or get them free sometimes). If you buy a single-size clamp model, be sure it's the right one for your frame.
It's easier to see how these derailleurs are different if you have a few of each in hand to look at and manipulate....sounds complex and confusing but it isn't really. Hope this helps you out some....enjoy the new drivetrain. 
)
Iconic 911 Turbo Porsche remains a classic
While design and build quality have improved over the years, the 911 retains the raw, customized feel of a hand-built car.
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