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Fork Steerer Expander
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It seems odd to me that much of the design changes of the bicycle over the years can be attributed to bicycle racing. It seems odd for the simple matter that most cyclists do not race. In the bike club I belong to we now have over 100 members of which probably 20 are racers. Some of us old guys go to the Golden Olympics, but most of us wouldn't have a ghost of a chance in a Cat 3 race.
There lies a problem though in that what is fast which is what a racer needs of course is not always the most comfortable for the distance rider or the weekend athlete. Many more of today's cyclists are distance riders or weekend warriors than are "racers"
So while the bicycle racer will aim for the flat back with the belly on the top tube and leaning forward as far as possible to get the best aerodynamics from himself and his ride, the much more common recreational rider will opt for a more upright position on the bike.
Long distance riders that spend many hours in the saddle but with much less speed than the racer will opt for a higher handlebar height. Sometimes getting a better fit for the rider and the type of riding involves not just an adjustment but also a parts replacement.
You may find that what came with the bike is not what fits you and that you need a longer handlebar stem to raise the handlebars or bring them closer to the saddle, possibly both.
Older bikes used a conical expander nut with a split shaft that expanded against the inside of the steerer. Newer bikes use a slightly different system that does almost exactly the same thing. Basically if you loosen the bolt that is on the top of the stem you should be able to move the stem up or down which will increase the height of the handlebars.
Be extremely careful when raising the bar that you do NOT raise them too high. Most stems have a minimum insertion mark. Make sure that your stem is inserted at least that far in. If the bar still feels to low, go to your nearest bike shop and pick up a longer stem with the same diameter. If there is no mark then make sure your stem is inserted at least 2" or 50 mm inside the fork.
If you don't insert it far enough and it either slips out or breaks off due to pressure on the handlebars, don't say you weren't warned. I have found that most bikes come with the handlebars set at the maximum height, so if you want to raise the bars, you are probably going to have to find a longer stem.
Some bikes come with what is known as a threadless fork/headset. These threadless forks usually come with long steerers which can be cut to size for different bikes. When you buy a new fork, just leave the steerer full length even if you have a smaller frame and you will have room to make your stem high enough without any bike modifications, special tools or anything like that.
About the Author: Jerry Goodwin is an avid cyclist, Medical Technologist, Personal Trainer and bicycle mechanic. Jerry and his wife Ruth have operate BMG Cycling and Fitness in Moultrie Georgia. Jerry is a member of the Pecan City Pedalers,he races his bicycle in the Georgia Golden Olympics and races BMX with his grandsons at Chehaw BMX track in Albany Georgia Check out http://www.thebicyclenut.com for more information
Threaded bike headsets
When you overhaul a threaded headset, you'll likely observe the reason for its name — the threaded steerer tube that sits at the top of a fork. You'll also see that a threaded headset is unique with its expander bolt, something that helps keep it in place when tightened.
To overhaul a threaded headset, follow these steps:
1. Use an Allen wrench, or adjustable wrench if needed, to loosen the socket head bolt, which sits at the top of the stem. Turn it just a few times to loosen it. Do not completely remove this bolt. It's connected to an expander wedge at the bottom of the stem, which keeps the stem in place. Sometimes the bolt may be buried deep inside the stem and require a longer Allen wrench.
2. After the bolt is loosened, place a small block of wood on it and give it a firm blow with a hammer to jar the wedge loose. If the stem has not been removed for a while it may take more than one blow and/or some penetrating lubricant.
3. Lift the stem out of the steering tube connected to the fork .
Remove the headset locknut by turning it in a counterclockwise direction.
5. Slide off any washers or anything else that sits underneath the locknut you just removed.
6. Unscrew the adjustable cup or cone that sits against the top of the head tube. As you do, hold on to the fork with one hand so that it doesn't fall to the ground. There is a top and bottom or an inside and outside of the bearing race. Take note of the bearing race positioning before removing it. If you don't reinstall it properly, you won't be able to adjust the headset and you'll damage the bearings and the headset. Be careful with the bearings that sit in the top and bottom of the head tube. If they're contained within a race, you're in good shape; if they're loose, they may fall out when you remove the adjustable cup or slide out of the fork. In the case of loose bearings, remove the top set before you slide out the fork. Then turn the bike upside down to remove the fork and the bottom set.
7. Inspect the bearings to see if they're pitted or worn. If they are, they should be replaced.
8. Clean and inspect all parts.
9. When you're ready to reinstall the headset, coat both cups with a layer of grease.
10. Insert one of the retainers into the bottom cup.
11. While holding the bottom retainer into place with one hand, insert the fork with the other hand. This procedure is sometimes easier if you turn the bike over.
12. After the fork is inside the head tube, slide the other race over the fork steering tube and down into the top cup of the head tube.
13. Screw on the adjustable cup or cone until it presses down slightly on the bearings.
14. Slide any washers, locknut, and anything else over the fork steering tube in their original order.
15. Insert the stem and, when it's at the correct height, turn the bolt clockwise. This will expand the wedge at the bottom of the stem and hold it in place. When you adjust the height of the stem, don't set it higher than the safety limit marking engraved into the side of the stem. It may have faded over time, so you need to look carefully to find it.
About the Author
woodchuck is an up and coming expert on crafts and hobbies. Do you want complete Band Saw Table Plans? You can learn wood DIY Bench Hold Down plans, or you can learn adoption process by going to How to Adopt A Baby site.
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