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Front Derailleur Adapter
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 Shimano Ultegra Di2 28.6/31.8mm Front Derailleur Seattube Adaptor  US $19.99
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 Shimano SM-AD15 Braze On Adapter Front Derailleur 34.9 US $17.00
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So you're going on a mountain bike holiday? To the Alps, Spain or the Basque Country? Are you going to take your own bike or hire one when you get out there? Well, hiring sometimes seems like the easy option, but it can be very expensive, at up to EUR400 a week, and then there's the time it takes you to get used to a new bike which can put a damper on your first few days. Taking your own bike might seem like a hassle but it's not really that hard, especially if you follow the guide below.
I always totally over pack my bike. People laugh but I've never had a scratch on it. It takes a bit longer and you end up carrying a bit more weight but this is how I do it, you can always decide where you want to cut the corners when you're doing it yourself.
So, what you'll need:
1. A good quality bike bag, including wheel bags. I really recommend getting one with little wheels because you're bike's going to be heavy once it's all packed up!
2. Some pipe insulation, which you can get from B&Q or similar. It's a bit expensive but you can use it again and again.
3. Tape.
4. Some wood.
Step by Step:
1. Clean your bike and put it in a work stand. The workstand obviously isn't essential but it makes it so much easier. Cleaning your bike is a good time to inspect everything to make sure you're going to be sorted for your holiday. Do your brake pads need replaced? Is your BB and headset working nicely. No frame damage?
2. Remove your cranks. Remove your pedals, wrap in bubble wrap and put into your bike bag. Wrap your cranks and the axle in bubble wrap and put into your bike bag. Now is a good time to grease your BB and service your pedals!
3. Take your wheels off. Remove the QR's and put into your bike bag. Remove the discs, put each one in a poly bag and tape together for strength. I put the bolts in tinfoil and stuff into the centre of the discs. Put discs into bike bag and wheels into wheel bag.
4. Remove your rear brake caliper, save the bolts somewhere safe in your bike bag! You can either disconnect your rear mech and tape the cables to the frame or you can do what I've done and just disconnect it and we'll tape it somewhere safe later. Remove your mech hanger and put it somewhere safe.
5. Turn your front mech so it sits safely. If this can't be done remove it. You can draw round the outline of the mech with a non-permanent pen to make it easier to put back in the same place if you want!
6. Remove the front caliper. If you have a maxel like me then you can just put it in to stop the fork legs being squeezed together, make sure that the lever lines up with the fork leg to stop it being damaged. If you have a front QR then you'll need to cut a wooden spacer as for the rear dropouts and tape it in place.
7. Remove the handlebars leaving the stem on the steerer tube. We're going to tape these to the downtube later. I slacken all my clamps and this gives enough slack to do this. If you don't have enough slack to do this then you'll need to remove the clamps from the bars.
8. Use the pipe insulation to cover the frame and forks. You'll need to cut it to length and shape it to fit around the disc mounts etc. Tape the protection into place to stop it moving about.
9. Fix the handlebars to the downtube, outside the insulation. Make sure that the brake levers and shifters are in a position that ensures they're protected; if you're not sure take them off because a broken brake lever is going to be expensive!
10. Tape the front calliper in between the fork legs. Make sure that the tape isn't going to touch your disc pads. Put a spacer between your pads to stop them being compressed, some brakes come with spacers but a couple of 50p's taped together works for me!
11. Fit a spacer between the rear dropouts to prevent them being crushed. I use a section of wood which I cut to shape and tape in place. I'm going to drill a hole through it next time and use my QR's to keep it in place.
12. Add your pipe insulation to the rest of the bike. Tape the rear mech and brake calliper into the rear triangle so that they're protected. Remember to fit your pad spacers, I always forget.
13. My bike looks a bit like this at the moment! The dropouts are spaced, all the main bits of frame are covered, nothing sticks out to get caught and damaged and all the insulation is fixed in place.
14. Cover the rest of the bike in the bubblewrap. I've only shown the forks here but I wrap it all over the frame too so that it's totally enclosed. Now fit it into your bike bag. Make sure that it's all quite evenly spaced and that there's nothing sticking out too much that is likely to get damaged. The test for me is would I be prepared to throw it about and stand on it, because that's what the baggage handlers might do.
All that takes me about 45 minutes the first time and about 30 minutes on the way back. A beer helps.
Good luck. If anything does go wrong and you're travelling with a good bike company then they'll help you fix it when you get there. In fact a really good bike company should help you unpack your bikes, or at the least offer you a beer when you're doing it!
Written by Doug at Basque MTB, Mountain Bike Holidays in Spain, based in the Pyrenees, just outside San Sebastian. A copy of this article, with pictures, can be found on the site.
1: Yakima Doubledown 4-Bike Hitch Mount Rack
Yakima DoubleDown 4-Bike Hitch Mount Rack
Yakima DoubleDown 4 - One year review
Purchased this product one year ago. Rack is used for road and mountain bikes, all frames are different shapes and sizes. Securely holds bikes without damaging them. Bikes will not move when all straps are used. Well built heavy duty unit. Very little wear and tear after one year of use. Fold down arms and fold down mast feature work well. Individual bike cradles are movable and adjustable for any frame or spacing between bikes. Fold down mast allows access to back hatch (Jeep Cherokee) with no problem. I have even folded it down with bikes on to access the hatch (not recommended, but it will work). Previously owned a Rhode Gear rack mount which was good, but this is a much better product by far. Also purchased lock for hitch pin which works well. I would highly recommend this product.
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Yakima DoubleDown 5-Bike Hitch Mount Rack
This is definitely a quality product but it was not cheap either. Everything on it like the fold down arms, and the tiling down features worked very very well. My only problem with it was getting my daughter's 24" bikes thru the two arms and thru the mounting points. The mounting points are very good does an amazing job. The bike really don't swing. And the rug coating on the mounts does a great job of not damaging the bike's finish (unlike my prior bike rack).
I did not try to mount 5 bike on this rack, so I can't give an opinion as to how it works with 5 bikes. However, I did get 3 bikes on it and it looks like I could easily mount a 4th bike, but it will take some doing to get a 5th bike on it. So, for those who just have 3 to 4 bike to deal with, I recommend getting this 5-bike model because it will be easier for you to deal with.
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Good rack
I've had this rack for about a month and taken it on a couple of long trips (200+ miles) and a number of trips around town. The rack's best attribute is that it holds the bikes very steady and secure at highway speeds. We ride quite a bit in the warmer months and the rack allows easy access to the back hatch when folded down, so it is possible to leave it on all the time which is convenient. It is fairly heavy, so getting it on and off the car is not easy. Standard road bike frames (diamond frames) go on and off with ease. Getting bicyles with non-standard frame geometries (very common for mountain bikes) on and off can be a challenge. You cannot fit 5 non-standard frames on there, but 3 fit fine.
It wasn't inexpensive after including hitch installation and purchasing a lock for it, but I'm very happy with the rack and I would give it a recommendation if you transport diamond frame bicycles and want a stable and secure rack.
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Great for short distances, not great for highway use.
This was my first hitch mounted rack and was far superior to my trunk mounted rack. It is great for short trips to the bike store, the trail, across town, etc. . . The problem comes in when you get on the highway or go any long distance. The bikes will move on the rack from the wind and can rub against each other or worse work the straps loose. I went out of town for a mountain bike race and when I got there I found that my rear derailleur and hanger were both bent because my MTB had slid into my road bike which cost me a little over $100.00 to repair, not to mention scratched the paint on both bikes.
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Good rack, 5 bikes is tight
I bought this after looking at the reviews on this site and elsewhere. I had a Bighorn 4-bike rack and loved it (except it didn't fold down) but needed to load 5 bikes. It is a very well-built rack. Despite folding in two places it is strudy and when tightened I noticed very little sway--no more than my Bighorn which was a solid unit. My only complaint is that 5 bikes is a challenge, at least if some of them are kids bikes. 5 adult bikes may work but it took a whole lot of trial and error to get it loaded with non-standard bikes. The arms are 28 inches (I measured in the store), and 31 inches inches would have made all the difference in the world. In retrospect I think I would have tried the Allen, which mounts the 5th bike between the column and the car, but I couldn't find arm length specs anywhere (I wonder why that is?) and the Yakima brand has proven reliability. As for now I'm going to shell out $29.99 for those cross-mount adapters--not somthing I wanted to do for a $275 rack.
Read More About Yakima DoubleDown 4-Bike Hitch Mount Rack
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SRAM RED FRONT DERAILLEUR 34.9mm ADAPTER CLAMP?
I use front mech braze on .Can I use this adapter on my braze on front derailleur and make the all unit clamp on...? or I need to buy a new front mech clamp on?
Yes, this adapter will work with a braze on front derailleur as long as the seat tube on the bike is the right diameter. You can but adapter clamps in various diameters so that you could use the same derailleur for many different diameter seat tubes.
Technical FAQ with Lennard Zinn: Chainring flex, mid-foot cleats, bottom bracket drilling and more
Chainring flex, mid-foot cleats, bottom bracket drilling and more
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