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SRAM X.0 2x10 31.8mm High Clamp Dual Pull Front Derailleur US $78.00
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SRAM X.0 3x10 31.8mm High Clamp Dual Pull Front Derailleur US $78.00
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SRAM X0 Front Derailleur List Price: $0.00 |
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In SRAM terminology, Low Direct means that this X0 2x10 Low Direct Mount Front Derailleur is an E-Type without the E-plate. It will bolt to a direct mount on your frame or swingarm. The easiest way to recognize this from a high direct style SRAM derailleur is that this one uses a top swing parallelogram design. The X0 2x10 Low Direct Mount Front Derailleur is specifically designed to work in conjunction with SRAM's 2x10 cranksets. As such, it's made to handle up to a 15-tooth differential between the big and little rings. Its cage is shorter and narrower than a triple-specific changer. This is great news for those who fear clearance between their rear suspension and their front derailleur.The aluminum links that shape the swing of the derailleur cage have widely spaced pivots for awesome stiffness. This rigidity inherent in the parallelogram is part of what makes X0 front shifting so quick and efficient. The derailleur cage is made from steel for maximum durability and is shaped for optimum performance with their X-Glide chainrings.The SRAM X0 2x10 Low Direct Mount Front Derailleur is available as either top or bottom pull and bolts straight into a E-type low direct mount on your frame.Product FeaturesMaterial: aluminum, steelSpeeds: 2, 3Pull Type: top, bottomMount: high clamp, low clamp, high direct mount, low direct mountCapacity: Compatible Components: 10-speedWeight: 130 gRecommended Use: mountain bikingManufacturer Warranty: |
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SRAM X.9 3X9 High Clamp Top Pull 34.9 Front Derailleur List Price: $51.00 Sale Price: $35.80 |
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The X.9 front derailleur features high quality materials selection, processing and finishing - all intended to provide a lightweight, durable, and attractive product for the MTB enthusiast and performance markets. |
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SRAM X7 Front Derailleur - 10-Speed List Price: $0.00 |
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Run a SRAM X7 10-Speed Front Derailleur for lightning-fast shifts.Product FeaturesMaterial: alloy, steelSpeeds: 10Pull Type: dual pullMount: high, low, directCapacity: Compatible Components: Weight: 137 gRecommended Use: cyclingManufacturer Warranty: |
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Sloane's Complete Book of Bicycling: The Cyclist's Bible (25th Anniversary Edition) List Price: $27.95 Sale Price: $6.98 |
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Sports/Bicycling |
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The Complete Do-It-Yourself Bike Book: Everything You Need to Know to Fix, Maintain and Get the Most Our of Your Bike List Price: $24.95 Sale Price: $106.40 |
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Mel Allwood covers every area of bike maintenance and repair using step-by-step photos and detailed text, to provide a clear, thorough manual for beginner and expert cyclists alike. Instructions are broken down into each mechanical area of the bike, offering assistance and trouble-shooting ideas for any problem that you may encounter — from the simple to complex, such as the tools you need for emergency on-the-road repair, overhauling troublesome pedals, and more. Useful short cuts and hints for all kinds of repairs will equip you with the know-how to prevent expensive and time-consuming trips to bike shops. The Complete Do-It-Yourself Bike Book provides you with practical information to help you save money and get the most out of your bike, plus other advice that will make you feel safer and surer on the road, including: choosing the right bike and gear for your kind of riding security and safety riding tips for touring and traveling cycling with kids |
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The Chainbreaker Bike Book: A Rough Guide to Bicycle Maintenance List Price: $15.00 Sale Price: $6.49 |
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Here's a hand-illustrated and accesible introduction to the world of bike repair. Through working at both Plan B Bike Project and French Quarter Bicycles in New Orleans, our co-authors have gathered a wealth of experience to share with would-be mechanics. The first half of this book is a complete repair manual to get you started on choosing, fixing, and riding your bike. The second half reprints all four issues of Chainbreaker zine, whose originals were destroyed in Hurricane Katrina. |
Featured Article:

The two wheeled vehicle we know today as the bicycle has seen countless variations over the years. Leonardo da Vinci may have been the first to envision this mode of transportation. Some of his early drawings from 1490 suggest a chain driven device with wheels. During the mid 1700s a Frenchman devised a crude two wheeled machine which was propelled not with pedals but by pushing the feet against the ground. In the 1800s a German added steering to this early machine which came to be known as the "Hobby Horse" and while offering amusement to many did not really provide a viable means of transportation.
In 1839 a Scottish blacksmith hammered out what was probably the first practical bicycle which was propelled by a lever and not the pedals we know so well today. Back in France in 1861 a coach builder added cranks and pedals to the old Hobby Horse and the velocipede was born. He further refined the velocipede in 1866 and the first of those strange looking machines with the immense front wheel were now on the road. Further development of this machine took place in
Britain a short while later and the first of the really large front wheel bikes complete with pedals became a standard for a time. What was the purpose of those large front wheels? Well chain drive and other geared refinements were still unknown during this period and so to gain speed those large wheels proved practical if getting on the thing was rather precarious at best. Pedals were affixed directly to the front wheel without the advantage of gears. So each time the front wheel was pedaled one revolution it traveled farther if the wheel was large. If the wheel was five feet in diameter it was over 15 feet in circumference and so the rider was able to travel some 15 feet with each single pedal revolution. The design also placed the rider almost directly above the front wheel for maximum pedaling efficiency.
For many reasons including the nasty habit of those high wheeled bikes to pitch the rider over the wheel if he struck a rut and the invention of chain drive and gearing, the high front wheel fell out of favor and the same sized front and rear wheel beauties were introduced and are here to stay. About 1885 in England chain driven rear wheels were added. Followed shortly by pneumatic tires, and over the years Strong alloy tube frames, derailleur gears and other modern updates made bicycle practical.
Although the advancement of the automobile relegated the bicycle to the status of a toy in the mid twentieth century it quickly reinvented itself with the help of many dedicated athletes and is now very popular with adults seeking exercise. In other forms it has become a racing machine or a mountain bike or a trail rider and many other advanced versions. While fossil fuel problems may signal the end of the internal combustion engine it is doubtful that the bicycle will disappear as long as man has the ability and desire to put his feet on pedals and feel the wind in his face.
http://discountmountainbike.org
Buying A Mountain Bike
For the best bargains on bikes and accessories check the links above.
3 Points To Consider When Buying A Road Bicycle
Too often people are looking at the price and not the quality of the road bike when they are in the market to buy. As equally important as the price for a road bike, quality can't be discounted.
You must consider several options when you start looking for a new road bike.
Used-vs-New
There is no shortage of used road bikes on the market today. Craigslist is one of those places and has hundreds available for sale in every imaginable category and price range. This may be a viable option if you are limited to how much you can spend. Buying a used road bike can pose many problems including knowing about any existing issues the former owner had with the bike. Even if the bike appears to be clean and in good shape there may still be small stress fractures that may cause a catastrophic failure.
You must look carefully at the components to see if you can see obvious wear on the metal. Naturally all bike parts will eventually wear out, it is the degree of wear that you must concern yourself with. The frame has to be looked at with a careful eye because if there is a small crack in the weld the bike will be virtually worthless.
Components can be changed provided you are willing to do the work yourself. You can go to a bike shop and have them do it for you but the cost will be exponentially higher. These are just some of the problems with buying a used bike. Not to mention that if the bike has a structural failure while you are riding it you risk serious injury or worse.
Mid-Range Price VS Low-Range Price
You can categorize road bikes relative to their pricing so in this article we will focus on the mid to lower-range road bikes. Road bikes generally range in price from 200 to 400 dollars for the low range and 400 to 1200 dollars for the mid range. 1200 dollars may seem like a lot of money to pay for a bike, but when you consider that most high end bikes sell in the 7 to 10,000 dollar range, 1200 doesn't seem so bad.
The difference among these types of road bikes is the quality of their components including the tires, seat, derailleur, crank and frame. So basically the overall quality of the bikes will be as different as night and day. Although you will be probably be getting a Shimano derailleur on both bikes you will be not be getting the Shimano XTR Shadow on the low priced road bike. For most of the components this is true. The less expensive bicycle might be your best bet if it doesn't matter to you. An example would be, if you couldn't afford the higher priced Schwinn Laguna road bike you could instead look at the less expensive Rapido by Lamborghini. Both are excellent road bikes and for a beginner the Rapido may be good enough. If you can afford something in between, the Monza by Tommaso is the road bike for you.
Cost Of Repair
If you factor in the cost of replacement for the cheaper components you have to ask yourself what you really saved by buying the cheaper road bike. To replace the derailleur will cost you anywhere from 100 to 200 dollars and more depending on the bike shop and the derailleur you choose to replace it with. The same holds true for most of the components on the bike. The total cost of replacement will certainly out price the original cost of the road bike.
You will find that with most things you buy the cheaper it is, the cheaper it is.
About the Author
I have been a cycling enthusiast for much of my life and have ridden many different types of road bikes. A very popular road bike is the Tommaso Monza. Another very popular road bicycle is the Scott Cr Pro. I highly recommend either road bike.
How much should I ask for my bike?
It's a well-maintained, slightly upgraded Specialized FSR XC Comp. About 3-4 years old.
- 100 mm rear travel (X-fusion shock with lockout)
- Rockshox Tora fork (130 mm travel)
- Shimano LX rear derailleur
- Avid BB5 mechanical disc brakes
- Thompson Elite seatpost
- Brand-new, high-quality tires (Mountain King 2.4 front, Continental 2.3 rear), worth about $80 for both of them.
Total bike weight about 29.5 pounds.
I bought this new for $1600. It currently weighs less, has wider tires, and more suspension then when I bought it. Great beginner bike, fun-bike, super D racer, etc.
It's in good condition with only a couple minor scrapes on the frame, has been recently tuned.
How much would be a reasonable price to ask for it?
I would expect $600 but ask for 650 or 700.
Saddle sore
2010-07-29
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US $24.97






