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Front Derailleur Top
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 Shimano Deore XT FD-M770 Front Derailleur Top Swing (Low Mount)  US $15.00
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 Shimano XTR 952 Front Derailleur 34.9 c Clamp TOP Pull TOP Swing 9 Speed VINTAGE US $39.99
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GMC Topkick Dual-Suspension Mountain Bike List Price: $299.99 Sale Price: $298.95  |
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The GMC Topkick 21-Speed Mountain Bike can handle whatever road you ride. The full-suspension, strong aluminum frame utilizes a floating beam suspension design and is mated to a Zoom suspension fork that features elastomer/spring technology. The Topkicks drivetrain starts with Microshift push shifters. These shifters control Shimanos tried and true TZ-30GS derailleur. The drivetrain finishes up with a strong aluminum wheelset featuring V-shape rim profile and high-flange alloy hubs. Stop on a dime with Promax disk brakes on the front and rear. These brakes are vastly superior to rim brakes, especially under adverse road conditions. True to its GMC roots, this bicycle is rugged, good looking, and built for the long haul. Boasting a full-suspension, extra-strong aluminum frame, the GMC Topkick mountain bike is an ideal choice for both trail riding and rough city riding. The frame employs a floating beam suspension design mated to a Zoom suspension fork with elastomer/spring technology. This gives the bike a smooth, steady performance even on rough terrain. The Topkick's drivetrain, meanwhile, is outfitted with Microshift push shifters that control Shimano's tried-and-true TZ-30GS derailleur. The drivetrain also offers a strong aluminum wheel set with a V-shape rim profile and high-flange alloy hubs. And to keep you stopping smoothly in any circumstance, the Topkick boasts front and rear Promax disc brakes. Disc brakes are vastly superior to rim brakes, especially under adverse road conditions. True to its GMC roots, the Topkick mountain bike is rugged, good looking, and built for the long haul. Specifications: Frame: 26-inch full-suspension aluminum MTB frame Fork: Zoom CH-386 suspension fork, 65mm travel Shocks: Kind Shock, adjustable to 650 pounds Chain: KMC Z51 Crankset: Alloy ISA 335P, 28/38/48, L170mm Front derailleur: Falcon MF 31 T Rear derailleur: Shimano RD-TZ30GS SIS, 7 speed Shifters: Microshift TS-50 ADII index L3/R7 Brake levers: GP 30 AP aluminum Brakes: LCHI DSK-320 disc brakes, 160mm Rims: Alloy black 26 x 1.5 inches Tires: Kenda black with yellow band 700 x 25C Stem: A-head TDS63K-8, EXT: 100mm, 15D Handlebar: HL-MTB 153, W: 600mm, R: 30mm Saddle: Velo, black padded Seat post: Alloy micro-adjust 27.2 x 300mm with quick-release The GMC Topkick 21-Speed Mountain Bike features a full-suspension, strong aluminum frame that utilizes a floating beam suspension design that is mated to a Zoom suspension fork with elastomer/spring technology. The Topkick's drivetrain starts with Microshift push shifters. These shifters control Shimano's tried and true TZ-30GS derailleur. The drivetrain finishes up with a strong aluminum wheelset featuring V-shape rim profile and high-flange alloy hubs. Stopping is handled by Promax disk brakes on the front and rear. These brakes are vastly superior to rim brakes, especially under adverse road conditions. True to it's GMC roots, this bicycle is rugged, good looking, and built for the long haul. GMC Topkick Mountain Bike Specifications Frame: 26-inch full suspension aluminum MTB frame Fork: Zoom CH-386 suspension fork 65mm travel Shocks: Kind Shock adjustable 650 pounds Chain: KMC Z 51 Crankset: Alloy ISA 335P 28x38x48 L170mm Front Derailleur: Falcon MF 31 T Rear Derailleur: Shimano RD-TZ30GS SIS 7SPD Shifters: Microshift TS-50 ADII index L3/R7 Brake Levers: GP 30 AP aluminum Brakes: LCHI DSK-320 disk brake 160mm Rims: Alloy black 26-inch X1.5 Tires: Kenda black with yellow band 700X25C Stem: A-head TDS63K-8 EXT:100mm 15D Handlebar: HL-MTB 153 W: 600mm R:30mm Sadle: Velo black padded Seat Post: Alloy micro adjust 27.2 X 300mm with quick-release Amazon.com Bicycle Buying Guide Finding the Right Bike To really enjoy cycling, it's important to find a bicycle that works for you. Here are some things to keep in mind when you're in the market for a new bike: The Right Ride In general, bikes are broken down into three major categories: Road and Racing Bikes--As a general rule, road and racing are built for speed and longer distances on paved surfaces. Thinner tires, lightweight 29-inch (700c) wheels and drop bars that allow for a more aerodynamic position are the norm. Most road bikes, regardless of price, offer many gears for tackling both hilly and flat terrain. Mountain Bikes--With their larger tires, hill-friendly gearing and upright position, mountain bikes are very popular for all types of riding, both on pavement and off. Mountain bikes that are designed specifically for rugged trail use typically feature a suspension fork. Some may have rear suspension, as well. A quick change of the tires on any mountain bike--even one that you use regularly on trails--adds to its versatility and makes it a worthy street machine. Comfort/Cruiser Bikes--For tooling around on bike paths, light trails, or for cruising a quiet beach-side lane, comfort/cruiser bikes are the ticket. With a super-relaxed riding position, padded seats, and limited or no gearing, these bikes are made for enjoying the scenery and having fun with the family. The Right Price A bike's price boils down to three essentials: frame materials, bike weight, and component quality and durability. Entry-level--You'll find a wide range of comfort and cruiser bikes in this category, as well as some lower-end mountain bikes and road bikes. Most will have steel frames and components that are designed to last for several years with frequent use. Mid-range--Bikes in this range may feature a lighter aluminum frame with mid-range components that keep performing after miles of use. If you're looking for a quality bike that is relatively lightweight and will stand up to abuse, this is the "sweet spot." Most serious commuter and touring bikes fall into this category, as do mid-range mountain bikes with a decent front suspension. High-end--Racers and serious enthusiasts who expect lightweight, high-performance components will want to stick to this category. For road bikes, exotic frame materials (carbon fiber, titanium) and ultra-lightweight components can add thousands to the price tag. Mountain bikes in this class often feature advanced front and rear suspension technology, as well as components designed to handle lots of rugged trail action. The Right Size Fit is crucial for comfort, control, and proper power and endurance on a bike. Here are some basic bike fit tips: Stand-over Height--To find out if a bike's overall height fits your body, measure your inseam. Next, determine how much clearance you'll need between your crotch and the top tube of the bike. For a mountain bike, you'll want three to five inches of clearance. A road bike should offer between one and two inches of clearance, while a commuter bike should have two to four inches. Compare the stand-over height for a given bike to your measurements (inseam + clearance) to determine the right bike height. Top Tube Length--You can measure your torso to get a good estimate of proper top tube length. First, make a fist and extend your arm. Measure from the center of your fist to the end of your collarbone (the part that intersects your shoulder). Next, measure your torso by placing a book against your crotch with the spine facing up. Measure from the spine to the bottom of your throat (the spot between your collarbones). Finally, add the two measurements (arm length + torso length), divide the number in half and subtract six inches. This is your approximate top tube length. Compare this number to a bike's posted top tube length. You can allow for about two inches longer or shorter, as most bikes can be adjusted via stem length/height and saddle fore/aft position to make fine adjustments to the fit. Bikes for Women--Proportionally, women tend to have a shorter torso and longer legs than men. Bike makers design women's bikes that offer a shorter top tube and many comfort/cruiser bikes built for women may also provide more stand-over clearance. The Right Accessories When you make a bike purchase, don't forget these crucial add-ons: Helmet (this is a must!) Seat pack Lock Hydration pack, or water bottles and bottle cages Spare tubes Portable bike pump Gloves |
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Shimano Alivio M410-SGS Rear Derailleur Black List Price: $0.00 |
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Shimano Alivio Rear Derailleurs.Direct-attach rear derailleursAdvanced light-action designTeflon-coated bushingsItem SpecificationsColorBlackWeight312gIntended UseMountainCassette SpacingShimano/SRAM 8Shifter/Derailleur CompatibilityShimanoLargest Cog34teethChain Wrap Capacity43teethDerailleur ActionTop-Normal (Traditional)Cage LengthLong |
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Shimano FD-M412 Alivio Dual Front Derailleur List Price: $17.99 Sale Price: Too low to display |
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Shimano Alivio M412 Front Derailleurs.Item SpecificationsFront Derailleur Clamp28.6mm (1-1/8"),31.8mm (1-1/4"),35.0mm (1-3/8")Front Derailleur Cable PullTopDerailleur Capacity22Crank-FD TypeMountain Double,Mountain Triple,Mountain Triple,Mountain DoubleFD/Shifter CompatibilityMountain TripleFront Derailleur StyleTopswingMax Ring42teethChain Compatibility3/32" |
Featured Article:
Most of us take our bicycle wheels for granted. Once we're rolling, we may think about the handlebars or derailleur and we definitely think about the saddle, but until we get a flat tire, we rarely give a thought to our wheels. Just like someone who works on their feet all day should pay attention to the shoes they wear, bike riders should know at least a little about their wheels.
When we say "bicycle wheels," we are talking about the whole circular complex of the front and back wheels. No matter what kind of riding you do, road or mountain, racing or recreational, your wheels, linked to your human kinetics power through the crank of the bike pedals, are what move you through a distance in such an eminently satisfying manner. They consist of a tire, probably a tube inside the tire, a rim, spokes, and a hub. The tube is going to claim the most attention: this is what goes flat when you ride over a tack or thorn or simply inflate it wrongly. At very least, every single bike rider out there, anywhere, should know how to change a tube and carry a spare tube and a pump or air cartridge. It will seem like so much extra baggage right up to the moment your tube blows. At that precise moment, your spare tube and air supply turn instantaneously into salvation. Riding any distance at all on a flat tire will destroy your rims, and this is a costly replacement.Carry a tube and know how to change it.
Your tires will age, but not so quickly that you will need to replace them often during the practical lifetime of your bicycle. What you will probably find in regard to this component of your bicycle wheel is that you will choose to have several different tires for your bike, especially if you are riding a hybrid model that crosses the lines between road and mountain models. You will want knobbier tires for off-road adventures and smoother tires for your daily commuting or for that long distance road ride. Basically, the knobbier and fatter your tires, the more stable your ride AND the more work it will take to propel them. Balance your needs by investing in a second set of tires.The kind of frame you have will affect what tires you can fit, but there are varieties for all frames.
As for the rest of what constitutes your bicycle wheels, the spokes and rims and hubs, there is not much you will do once you have your bicycle. Rims and spokes and hubs vary enormously, but once you have purchased your bicycle you won't do much to these elements other than to keep them clean, free of dirt and grease. Wiping down your bike after a ride is an exceptionally good practice, and while you're doing it, always run your fingertips lightly over each tire. Early detection of burrs and glass shards can spare you (excuse the pun!) a flat on your next ride.
Alastair Hamilton is a successful writer who offers a truly unique depth of experience in competitive cycling, he also contributes adding technical articles on road bikes to some cycling online magazines like http://www.bike-cycling-reviews.com You will find further information on bike wheels and tires at http://www.bike-cycling-reviews.com/bike-parts/bicycle-wheels.html
Rear Derailleur Adjustment
These instructions should solve all shifting issues, however they may be overkill for most users. Most new bikes come with straight rear derailleur hangers, properly adjusted b screw, and properly set H & L screws. Hence stage#1-#3 are not required for for most new bike owners. However going through all the steps should solve shifting issues if simply going through #4 is not sufficient. Stage #1 Make sure the rear derailleur hanger is straight Check the rear derailleur hanger. Visually, one can see the below hanger is bent inward toward the frame. A rear derailleur hanger alignment tool is required to adjust it perfectly. However when a tool is not available it can be adjusted by pulling the derailleur with ones hand away from the cassette until the derailleur is perpendicular to the ground. The stock hanger is very soft and can be bent several times. Below we use the Park DAG-1 too to straighten the hanger. We will remove the derailleur, then use the tool to check if it aligned properly, if it is misaligned we will use the tool to bend it back into place and repeat until we are finished. From geometry we know two points define a line, and three points define a plane. Our goal is to place the hanger on a parallel plane with respect to the cassette. We will use the tool to place the hanger on a parallel plane as the rim. We will assume the rim and cassette are on parallel planes. We will use the DAG-1 tool to measure the distance from the rim at 3 different points and to bend the hanger until the distance from three points to the rim is the same. Step #1 Remove rear derailleur from the hanger with an allen wrench. Step #2 Install the DAG-1 hanger tool onto the hanger as shown Step #3 Test the distance from the DAG-1 tool to the rim at three points. If this distance is the same the hanger is in the proper plane and the job is done. Step #4 If the distances are not the same at all points around the rim use the tool as a lever bending the hanger to make the distances closer. Repeat the steps #3 & #4 as often as needed until the distances are the same. Stage #2 Adjust the b Screw We will assume the rear derailleur H & L screws are pulled out. Hence there should be no restriction on the derailleur's movement. The b screw adjustment is required when either: A). In the largest cog there is an issue with chainsuck ( when the chain wraps around the largest cog instead of going directly to the rear derailleur). B). One experiences shifting issues in the smallest cogs. As a general rule of thumb the b screw should be about 6mm away from the largest cog. Step #1 If you experience chainsuck issues in the biggest cog turn the b-screw clockwise to pull the rear derailleur back. Step #2 If you have problems shifting in the smallest cogs turn the b screw counterclockwise to push the rear derailleur in. Stage #3 H & L screw adjustment H & L screws limit movement on the rear derailleur. The rear derailleur should never be allowed to move inside the inside face of largest cog, this risks the chain getting caught between the spokes and rear cog. Once this happens you may need to rebuild your rear wheel. Additionally the rear derailleur should never be allowed past the outside face of the smallest cog. This could allow the chain to get wedged between the frame & cog possibly tearing up the frame. The H and L screws will limit motion by the rear derailleur past the biggest & smallest cogs to minimize the probability of problems occuring. These instructions are for a single chainring drivetrain. Our procedure ( algorithm ) is very quick and proper for our bicycles, but allows for some variability. Do not use these instructions for a multi chainring bike. Step #1 Check the rear derailleur. View the H & L screws Step #2 H screw has a yellow oval around it. L screw has a blue oval.. Note the H screw is out & L screw is in. Step #3 Place the chain on the largest cog. Pull the cable with your hand to create tension, if this causes the derailleur to move inside the largest cog you must turn the L screw clockwise until the derailleur is below the biggest cog, then back off counterclockwise a bit ( not to restrict range ). This will keep the rear derailleur from coming off the largest cog & backing off will not restrict the range of motion. Step #4 Place the chain in the smallest cog. Relieve all tension from the cable, if this causes the derailleur to move outside the smallest cog you must turn the H screw clockwise until the derailleur is below the smallest cog, then back off counterclockwise a bit ( not to restrict range ). This will keep the rear derailleur from coming off the smallest cog & backing off will not restrict the range of motion. Stage #4 Cable tension adjustment We will assume you have gone through stages #1 to #3 in adjusting a rear derailleur. This is the last and possibly easiest step. You will require a bike stand or a person willing to hold the rear wheel in the air. Due to spring tension the rear derailleur prefers to stay in the smallest cog ( assuming there is no cable tension ). Cable tension lifts the derailleur into the larger cogs. Hence if the derailleur does not move into larger cogs it needs more cable tension, achieved by turning the barrel adjuster counter clockwise. If the derailleur does not move into smaller cogs it has too much cable tension, and the tension must be relieved by turning the barrel adjuster clockwise. In short our procedure ( or algorithm ) for adjusting the shifter is as follows. If the shifter is in a smaller number gear than the chain ( for ex. chain is in #2 cog while shifter in #1 ) one should turn the barrel adjuster clockwise. On the other hand. If the shifter is in a larger number gear than the chain ( for ex. chain is in #2 cog while shifter in #3 ) one should turn the barrel adjuster counterclockwise. Step #1 View the barrel adjuster on the rear derailleur. Step #2 Put the bike in a stand or have a partner hold up the rear wheel. Step #3 Put the shifter in 1st gear and rotate the pedals. If the chain is not in the biggest cog we will assume it is in a smaller cog due to the limiting ( H & L ) screws do not allow it anywhere else. Turn the barrel adjuster counterclockwise & rotate the pedals until the chain is in the largest cog. Step #4 Run through the gears on the shifter from 1 to 9 if the rear derailleur does not shift properly follow the procedure above Step #5 Run back through the gears on the shifter from #9 to #1 if the rear derailleur does not shift properly follow the procedure above Step #6 Test shifting through the gears several times to make sure it is proper. One can adjust the derailleur while riding by turning the barrel adjuster on the shifter clockwise or counterclockwise ( as explained in the procedure ).
About the Author
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how to find out if i have a top pull pull or a bottom pull front derailleur?
Just take a look at it. The shifter wire either comes from above (top pull) or it goes under the bottom bracket and comes up to the derailleur clamp from below (bottom pull).
The first image below is a standard top pull.
The second image is of a bottom pull, where the shifter wire comes from the top like a typical top pull, but which uses a converter (the black pulley) to enable the use of a bottom pull derailleur.
SRAM X0 transmission
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