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Front Derailleur Used
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 Lot Of 3 Campagnolo Front Derailleurs: Record 10 Speed, Veloce, And Record  US $19.99
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 SHIMANO SLX 3 X 9 SPEED FRONT DERAILLEUR #FD-M660 CLAMP ON 34.9 MOUNTAIN BIKE US $39.00
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Shimano EF-51 Shifter/Brake Lever Combo (3 x 7 Speed) List Price: $37.98 Sale Price: $32.28  |
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The Shimano EF-51 Shifter/Brake Lever Combo is designed to make shifting and braking a seamless process for easier biking. Compatible with 7-speed cassettes/freewheels and triple cranks and with V-brake systems, this combination pair replace separate brake lever and gear shift systems. Designed for ease of use, the unit has an easy-to-read gear indicator. Made by Shimano, the EF-51 Shifter/Brake Lever Combo carries a two-year warranty to be free of defects in material and workmanship. Brake lever and shifters together in the same unit. Sold as a pair. Compatible with 7-speed cassettes/freewheels and triple cranks. Compatible with v-brakes. |
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GMC Topkick Dual-Suspension Mountain Bike List Price: $299.99 Sale Price: $298.95 |
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The GMC Topkick 21-Speed Mountain Bike can handle whatever road you ride. The full-suspension, strong aluminum frame utilizes a floating beam suspension design and is mated to a Zoom suspension fork that features elastomer/spring technology. The Topkicks drivetrain starts with Microshift push shifters. These shifters control Shimanos tried and true TZ-30GS derailleur. The drivetrain finishes up with a strong aluminum wheelset featuring V-shape rim profile and high-flange alloy hubs. Stop on a dime with Promax disk brakes on the front and rear. These brakes are vastly superior to rim brakes, especially under adverse road conditions. True to its GMC roots, this bicycle is rugged, good looking, and built for the long haul. Boasting a full-suspension, extra-strong aluminum frame, the GMC Topkick mountain bike is an ideal choice for both trail riding and rough city riding. The frame employs a floating beam suspension design mated to a Zoom suspension fork with elastomer/spring technology. This gives the bike a smooth, steady performance even on rough terrain. The Topkick's drivetrain, meanwhile, is outfitted with Microshift push shifters that control Shimano's tried-and-true TZ-30GS derailleur. The drivetrain also offers a strong aluminum wheel set with a V-shape rim profile and high-flange alloy hubs. And to keep you stopping smoothly in any circumstance, the Topkick boasts front and rear Promax disc brakes. Disc brakes are vastly superior to rim brakes, especially under adverse road conditions. True to its GMC roots, the Topkick mountain bike is rugged, good looking, and built for the long haul. Specifications: Frame: 26-inch full-suspension aluminum MTB frame Fork: Zoom CH-386 suspension fork, 65mm travel Shocks: Kind Shock, adjustable to 650 pounds Chain: KMC Z51 Crankset: Alloy ISA 335P, 28/38/48, L170mm Front derailleur: Falcon MF 31 T Rear derailleur: Shimano RD-TZ30GS SIS, 7 speed Shifters: Microshift TS-50 ADII index L3/R7 Brake levers: GP 30 AP aluminum Brakes: LCHI DSK-320 disc brakes, 160mm Rims: Alloy black 26 x 1.5 inches Tires: Kenda black with yellow band 700 x 25C Stem: A-head TDS63K-8, EXT: 100mm, 15D Handlebar: HL-MTB 153, W: 600mm, R: 30mm Saddle: Velo, black padded Seat post: Alloy micro-adjust 27.2 x 300mm with quick-release The GMC Topkick 21-Speed Mountain Bike features a full-suspension, strong aluminum frame that utilizes a floating beam suspension design that is mated to a Zoom suspension fork with elastomer/spring technology. The Topkick's drivetrain starts with Microshift push shifters. These shifters control Shimano's tried and true TZ-30GS derailleur. The drivetrain finishes up with a strong aluminum wheelset featuring V-shape rim profile and high-flange alloy hubs. Stopping is handled by Promax disk brakes on the front and rear. These brakes are vastly superior to rim brakes, especially under adverse road conditions. True to it's GMC roots, this bicycle is rugged, good looking, and built for the long haul. GMC Topkick Mountain Bike Specifications Frame: 26-inch full suspension aluminum MTB frame Fork: Zoom CH-386 suspension fork 65mm travel Shocks: Kind Shock adjustable 650 pounds Chain: KMC Z 51 Crankset: Alloy ISA 335P 28x38x48 L170mm Front Derailleur: Falcon MF 31 T Rear Derailleur: Shimano RD-TZ30GS SIS 7SPD Shifters: Microshift TS-50 ADII index L3/R7 Brake Levers: GP 30 AP aluminum Brakes: LCHI DSK-320 disk brake 160mm Rims: Alloy black 26-inch X1.5 Tires: Kenda black with yellow band 700X25C Stem: A-head TDS63K-8 EXT:100mm 15D Handlebar: HL-MTB 153 W: 600mm R:30mm Sadle: Velo black padded Seat Post: Alloy micro adjust 27.2 X 300mm with quick-release Amazon.com Bicycle Buying Guide Finding the Right Bike To really enjoy cycling, it's important to find a bicycle that works for you. Here are some things to keep in mind when you're in the market for a new bike: The Right Ride In general, bikes are broken down into three major categories: Road and Racing Bikes--As a general rule, road and racing are built for speed and longer distances on paved surfaces. Thinner tires, lightweight 29-inch (700c) wheels and drop bars that allow for a more aerodynamic position are the norm. Most road bikes, regardless of price, offer many gears for tackling both hilly and flat terrain. Mountain Bikes--With their larger tires, hill-friendly gearing and upright position, mountain bikes are very popular for all types of riding, both on pavement and off. Mountain bikes that are designed specifically for rugged trail use typically feature a suspension fork. Some may have rear suspension, as well. A quick change of the tires on any mountain bike--even one that you use regularly on trails--adds to its versatility and makes it a worthy street machine. Comfort/Cruiser Bikes--For tooling around on bike paths, light trails, or for cruising a quiet beach-side lane, comfort/cruiser bikes are the ticket. With a super-relaxed riding position, padded seats, and limited or no gearing, these bikes are made for enjoying the scenery and having fun with the family. The Right Price A bike's price boils down to three essentials: frame materials, bike weight, and component quality and durability. Entry-level--You'll find a wide range of comfort and cruiser bikes in this category, as well as some lower-end mountain bikes and road bikes. Most will have steel frames and components that are designed to last for several years with frequent use. Mid-range--Bikes in this range may feature a lighter aluminum frame with mid-range components that keep performing after miles of use. If you're looking for a quality bike that is relatively lightweight and will stand up to abuse, this is the "sweet spot." Most serious commuter and touring bikes fall into this category, as do mid-range mountain bikes with a decent front suspension. High-end--Racers and serious enthusiasts who expect lightweight, high-performance components will want to stick to this category. For road bikes, exotic frame materials (carbon fiber, titanium) and ultra-lightweight components can add thousands to the price tag. Mountain bikes in this class often feature advanced front and rear suspension technology, as well as components designed to handle lots of rugged trail action. The Right Size Fit is crucial for comfort, control, and proper power and endurance on a bike. Here are some basic bike fit tips: Stand-over Height--To find out if a bike's overall height fits your body, measure your inseam. Next, determine how much clearance you'll need between your crotch and the top tube of the bike. For a mountain bike, you'll want three to five inches of clearance. A road bike should offer between one and two inches of clearance, while a commuter bike should have two to four inches. Compare the stand-over height for a given bike to your measurements (inseam + clearance) to determine the right bike height. Top Tube Length--You can measure your torso to get a good estimate of proper top tube length. First, make a fist and extend your arm. Measure from the center of your fist to the end of your collarbone (the part that intersects your shoulder). Next, measure your torso by placing a book against your crotch with the spine facing up. Measure from the spine to the bottom of your throat (the spot between your collarbones). Finally, add the two measurements (arm length + torso length), divide the number in half and subtract six inches. This is your approximate top tube length. Compare this number to a bike's posted top tube length. You can allow for about two inches longer or shorter, as most bikes can be adjusted via stem length/height and saddle fore/aft position to make fine adjustments to the fit. Bikes for Women--Proportionally, women tend to have a shorter torso and longer legs than men. Bike makers design women's bikes that offer a shorter top tube and many comfort/cruiser bikes built for women may also provide more stand-over clearance. The Right Accessories When you make a bike purchase, don't forget these crucial add-ons: Helmet (this is a must!) Seat pack Lock Hydration pack, or water bottles and bottle cages Spare tubes Portable bike pump Gloves |
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Shimano SL-BS64 Ultegra Bar End Shifter Set (8-Speed) List Price: $84.99 Sale Price: $67.76 |
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Shimano SL-BS64-8 eight-speed double/triple bar end shifters.Friction-compatible right leverThis shifter is not compatible with 8-speed Dura Ace; packaging calls out Dura Ace but the shifter itself is UltegraItem SpecificationsWeight83gWeight83gCassette SpacingShimano/SRAM 8Shifter/Derailleur CompatibilityShimanoEnd TypeShimano/Sram |
Featured Article:
It's been a long time since the "10-speed" bike was the ne plus ultra of biking sophistication when it came to gears. These days, especially in mountain bikes, you can get anything up to 27 speeds.
What are all these gears in aid of? Quite simply, they allow you to pedal at the same cadence - regardless of whether you're going uphill, downhill, or cross country.
However, the main reason why mountain bikes have so many gears is to assist you in climbing up those mountains!
The main thing to remember when shifting is that you must always shift while pedaling, otherwise you'll strip the gears.
Front Derailleur
The gears are divided into two parts. There are three chain rings in the front, which are controlled by the left hand gear shifter. That's why there are 3 numbers to choose from on that gear shifter - to choose which of three front rings your chain will rest on. The "derailleur" attached to the gear shifter moves the chain from one ring to another.
When the chain is on the smallest of these three chain rings (1), pedaling will be very easy. This is called the granny gear. The second chain ring is for level, off road riding (2), and the third, or largest chain ring, is good for riding on pavement.
So if you want to use just those three gears, you can certainly do so. But, using the right hand shifter, you can take advantage of the increments of gears available to you.
Rear Derailleur
The back chain ring is a cog set featuring seven, eight or nine cogs, depending on how many "speeds" you have (21, 24 or 27). Each cog is of a different size, and again, the smaller size cogs will enable you to pedal very, very easily - but not go very fast, while the larger size cogs will allow you to go further with each downward stroke of the pedal.
The best thing to do is to practice, practice, practice. Take your bike to a parking lot or somewhere where you don't have to worry about people, and shift from one gear to another, getting used to each one and how easy or difficult it is to pedal while in that gear.
People new to biking might be rather wary of shifting gears. Shifting always was a bit problematic during the "old days" - when one only had a pair of center mounted levels to work with, but now gear shifters - the twist type - are so easy to use that there is no reason to be afraid of shifting. Again, as long as you're pedaling while you shift, you won't hurt the gears.
Alastair Hamilton is a consultant who writes on many consumer topics like bicycles for http://www.bikecyclingreviews.com . You can find more information and resources on mountain bike reviews at his website.
Why Proper Lubrication Is Crucial In Mountain Bike Maintenance
More and more people are getting into mountain biking. Very few people, though, properly maintain their bikes. One of the most important aspects of mountain bike maintenance is lubrication. Keeping your bike's moving parts well-lubricated will help keep your bike in top shape for a long time. Failing to keep your bike properly lubed will lead to a shortened lifespan for your bike and its parts.
The most basic advice to heed when it comes to keeping your bike lubed, is that if there's a moving part, it needs to be lubricated. There are some parts which are best left to the experts. It's unlikely that you'll want to pull the bearings out of your headset or from inside the front crankshaft or hubs, but there are plenty of parts which are easy to access and which appreciate a regular and thorough lubing.
When purchasing lube for your bike, it's advised to buy a product specifically designed for bikes. They're perfectly formulated for the specific needs of bicycles. These lubricants typically come in drip or spray dispensers.
Now take a look at your mountain bike's derailleurs. If you're having trouble with shifting gears, then there's a good chance your derailleurs need some lubrication. In case you don't know, the derailleur is the part that moves the chain from gear to gear. Wherever there's a movable point on the derailleur, apply lubricant. This includes the little adjustment barrel. Some lube there will keep it from rusting and making it impossible to adjust.
Turn your bike upside down, move the pedals and shift gears. Wherever you see the derailleur moving and exposing sections, add some lubricant. Don't overdo it, though. Wipe up any excess drips.
Another important place to apply lube is the chain. A well-lubricated chain will last a long time and it will shift from gear to gear easier. Either turn the bike upside down or mount it on a rack if you have one, and slowly crank the pedals. As the chain cycles around, apply lubricant by either spraying it or dripping it on. Wipe off any lubricant which accidentally lands on the frame or anywhere else.
The pedals can also use a regular application of lubricant. Of course you don't want to put any on the pedal grips unless you have cartoon capers in mind, but you do want to apply some to where they attach to the cranks.
It may surprise you to hear that the brakes require lubrication. You don't want to get any grease on the brake shoes, though! Keep the lube away from the rims, too. Where you do want to apply lubricant is on the pivot points where the brakes move. Wherever there's a moving joint or metal on metal, you want to apply lubricant. The brake levers themselves can use some lube, too. Again, you'll want to apply it on the pivot points on the levers and not the lever itself.
A well-lubricated mountain bike will last longer than one that's neglected. It'll ride nicer, too. Remember to regularly lubricate the parts you can easily access and talk to your local bike shop about further mountain bike maintenance.
About the Author
Gregg Hall is an author living in Navarre Beach, Florida. Find more about this as well as
cycling gear
at http://www.cyclinggearplus.com
What is a triple front derailleur?
People tell me a bought a bike with a triple front derailleur. I'm used to bikes with just 1,2, and 3. But this time the front gear shifter looks different because has way more increments. Can somebody tell me how to use this properly?
http://bicycletutor.com/gear-shifting/
Tour de France tech: The new Orbea Orca
Lennard Zinn takes a look at the 2011 Orbea Orca, as used by Samuel Sanchez at the Tour
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