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The Syrian hamster goes by many names ranging from Teddy Bear Hamsters, Fancy Hamster, Long Haired Hamster for the hairy ones to Alien Hamster, Black Bear and European Black Bear for the hairless ones.
As their name indicates, Syrian hamsters are from Syria. Because of the cold temperatures in Syria, Syrian hamsters are genetically programmed to go into hibernation for a couple of months. During hibernation, hamsters go into a dormant state, where to fight the winter's cold, their body temperature reduces, metabolic rate decreases and they almost seem dead. Since they are so small, it can be troubling for a breeder to keep tabs on whether the hamster is alive or has died in its sleep. The real fact is, hamsters cannot die that easily as long as they are well protected. The important thing to keep in mind is, the temperature needs to be around 16 degrees centigrade as far as possible and there should be adequate food supply in the hamster's house.
There are several websites which give detailed information about Syrian hamsters. Some of the common facts about them are, Syrian hamsters are really small in size and are approximately 6-7 inches long with short tails. The fore foot has 4 toes while the rear feet have five toes. Syrian hamsters have pouches in their mouths in which they carry food. Whether you believe this or not, they can carry half their body weight as food in their cheek pouches.
Some additional hamster information which breeders need to be aware of is that these small animals are very territorial and hence very quarrelsome with intruders. Because of this, they have to be separated from other hamsters by the time they are eight to ten weeks old. Syrian hamsters are solitary animals and putting them in the company of another hamster can result in some solid fighting and even death in some cases. Thus, breeding won't happen naturally and you will have to play matchmaker for your hamster. This isn't too difficult as the sexual season for a hamster occurs every four days and lasts for anywhere between 14 - 18 hours. During this time, the hamster won't be quarrelsome and the two can be brought together. If you are not sure whether your hamster is in a receptive or `oestrus period', stroke your pet hamster's tail. If she freezes on the spot and flattens her body while lifting her tail, then you can conclude that your hamster is in the season.
If you are a refrigerator raider at night, and you peep in to check out on your hamster in the night, don't be surprised if you catch it snacking or prowling around inside its house. This is because Syrian hamsters are nocturnal creatures and while they do remain awake during day time, they are basically creatures of the night.
Chris Short is a Dwarf Hamster enthusiast. For more great tips on
Dwarf Hamsters and Dwarf hamster care visit http://www.mydwarfhamster.com
How To Care For Your Cockatoo
A cockatoo is a wonderful bird to keep as a pet, and the simple instructions below will allow you to do just that.
The chief difference between other members of the parrot family and cockatoos is, of course, that the latter possess crests, and these vary considerably in shape and size.
Many of them have fan-shaped crests and far the most beautiful as well as the largest of these adorns Leadbeater's Cockatoo. The Roseate's is rather the shape of a Roman helmet, while that of the quaint but attractive little Gang-Gang resembles a lady's feathered toque.
Cockatoos are not round at all in the New World, their habitat being exclusively the continent of Australia and the neighboring islands.
Generally speaking, they are gregarious, some of them remaining in large flocks even during the breeding season - a period when many birds tend to leave the flock and go off separately in pairs.
Like most things, cockatoos have their advantages and their disadvantages. Among the latter must be listed their powerful and destructive beaks and their loud and harsh voices; and among the former the delightfully charming and affectionate dispositions of really tame specimens, which I think are even more demonstrative to their human friends than are tame parrots.
A tame cockatoo in a cage should be taken a lot of notice of and let out as often as possible. It should also be given plenty to occupy it and exercise its beak upon - an empty cotton-reel being excellent for this purpose. Its owner should realize when he buys a bird that he is taking on an obligation, which goes far beyond simply keeping it supplied with food and water.
These are mere essentials, and any bird-keeper worth his salt will give his pet plenty of affection and use his imagination to supply those small extra attentions which make all the difference between a bored, bedraggled captive and a really happy, healthy and contented pet. This, of course, entails a certain amount of trouble for the owner, but I know of few ways of expending energy that are so infinitely rewarding.
One thing that must be avoided at all costs and which is rather a temptation to children, is teasing a cockatoo in order to make it raise its crest and screech. Such treatment is completely ruinous to the temper of a pet bird. Cockatoos in an aviary revel in a rain bath, and caged specimens should either be put out in their cage in a light summer shower, or, if this is impossible, be sprayed indoors with a fine spray of tepid rainwater.
A cockatoo's cage should be as large as possible, and care should be taken to ensure that the bird's crest when fully spread does not come in contact with the top of the cage, otherwise its appearance will be spoiled..
Cockatoos should be fed chiefly upon sunflower seed and monkey-nuts, with small quantities of canary seed and oats or groats as well as a pinch of hemp every other day; when they are breeding, the latter should be given daily and the amount considerably increased as it is a valuable rearing food.
Wheat can also be offered, particularly to the larger species, and most cockatoos appreciate a piece of stale bread soaked in sweetened milk and this can be given occasionally as a titbit. In my experience the majority of cockatoos are not particularly keen on fruit but are very fond of the usual wild green-foods, also the leaves of cultivated spinach-beet and particularly the midribs of seakale-beet.
Spend time with your pet, feed him well and you will have a delightful companion which will live many long years. Enjoy him!
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i have purchased an amazon parrot recently and want to know how long i leave it in the cage for?
Also i would like to know how long it will be untill it comes active! its 3 yrs old and was hand reared but has spent the last 3 months in an aviary with other birds
the reason i ask this is that people are saying let it out straight away, and others are saying keep it in the cage for up to 2 weeks to get used to the room. i also know not to feed it on a full seed diet. i am using them just for treats im using pellets and fruit!
First I must say that no good breeder would put a hand reared bird into an aviary!!
As they would be very flighty and as a big bird could damage itself if let into a flight.
As to how long you should keep it caged is if it were genuinely hand reared,then only 1-2 weeks would be all that is needed for it to get used to it's surrounds.
Is it hand tame?does it allow you to handle it?if it is ok with any of these then 1 week would do.
Macaws are fruit and seed eaters,this is their natural food!!
I would not recommend Pellets! as there are many contents of Pellets that are not a natural food source,such as animal by-products,these are the waste of dead animals that are not used in the human food chain,if you cant eat it then don't feed it to your bird.
There have been documented accounts of what feeding of Pellets can do.
Also there are more problems in the health of birds fed on Pellets.
As an ex breeder of various species I would not feed my birds Pellets a good quality seed and fruit mix along with Vegetables is the more natural way to feed your bird.
If Pellets were so good then they would be dearer than seed as they cost more to make.
Natural is best!!!!!
Steven Ivory: Column Returns Next Week
*Steven Ivory’s column will return next week. In the meantime, you can access his previous columns HERE.
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