Thanks for visiting our site!
Mountain Bar Ends
Checkout Ebay Auctions For The Cheapest Prices
![]() |
|
Full Carbon Alloy Head Mountain Bike Bicycle Barends Bar ends US $43.97
|
HL CORP Mountain Bike Alloy Handlebar Bar Ends 65mm NEW US $9.97
|
| Powered by phpBay Pro |
Check out Amazon:
| Account limit of 2000 requests per hour exceeded. |
Featured Article:

Mountain Bike Anatomy
A mountain bike is the one thing you need before you go mountain biking. A mountain bike contains many parts, which will be covered below:
1. Bottom bracket - This attaches the crankset to the body of a bike.
2. Brake cable - This is the cable that connects the brake lever to the brake mechanism.
3. Brake lever - The lever on the handlebar to activate the brakes. The left side is the front brake and the right side is the rear brake.
4. Chain - The circular set of links that transfer power from the chain ring to the cogs.
5. Chain ring - The toothed rings that attach to the crank to hold the chain.
6. Crank - The lever that extends from the bottom bracket to the pedal, transferring the power to the chain rings.
7. Derailleur - The mechanism for moving the chain from one cog to another.
8. Down tube - The section of frame that extends downward from the stem to the bottom bracket.
9. Front shock - The shock absorber on the front fork.
10. Handlebar - The horizontal bar attached to the stem with handgrips on the end.
11. Headset - The mechanism in front of the frame that connects the front fork to the stem and handlebars.
12. Hub - The center part of the wheel that the spokes are attached to.
13. Idler pulley - The bottom pulley of the rear derailleur that provides spring tension to keep the chain tight.
14. Nipple - A threaded receptacle that holds the end of the spoke to the rim.
15. Pedal - The platform to pedal on; attaches to the crank.
16. Rear shock - The shock absorber for the rear tire on dual suspension type bikes.
17. Rim - The metal ring that holds the spokes on the inside and the tire to the outside.
18. Saddle - The seat.
19. Seat post - Offers support for the seat.
20. Skewer - The metal rod that goes through the hub, attaching the wheel to the dropouts of the frame.
21. Spindle - The free rotating axle that the crank arms attach to; also a part of the bottom bracket.
22. Spokes - The thick wires that join the hub to the rim.
23. Stem - A piece that attaches the handlebar to the steering tube.
24. Wheel hub - The center of the wheel that the spokes are attached to.
About the Author
Webmaster of Mountain Bike Store
mountain bike gear change problem?
my mountain bike wont change from the centre cog on the main gear section(ie 1,2,3)it changes ok on the little cogs at the rear but wont move on the main one just sounds like its nearly there but wont.any one know how i can fix this?
also i want to stiffen my front forks as they bounce all over can i do this manually myself or will i need a pro to do it?i cant see any adjusters just two black nuts at the top end(bar end)
the bike is a cbr dirt hog
thanks,thanks and triple thanks
The deraileur adjustment screw will help set the tension in order to snap your chain onto the right cog. There could be other issues that hinder chain movement. Make sure you didn't bend or break any teeth on that ring. General wear on the chain rings can cause your chain to skip or not catch when shifting. replacing a chain ring can end up getting a little pricey as you usually wear your drive train fairly evenly, the chain and rings get into a groove, so to speak. So when one piece of the drive train gets replaced the "groove" is upset, sometimes resulting in the need to replace rings and chains altogether. But start with the tension adjustment. And remember to adjust with smail turns. Getting over zealous with your adjustments will throw the front deraileur out of whack further.
As for the forks, I am not sure what kind you have and how the adjust tension, but you can probably find the specs online and figure out how to adjust them yourself. Forks adjust a little easier than deraileurs, in my opinion. At least, a not so finely tuned fork is a little easier to overcome while riding than a not finely tuned deraileur. Best of luck with your fixes.
Cube 2011: New trail bikes, hardtails and freeride rig
Latest mountain bikes from Germany
Thanks for visiting!

US $6.24