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Mountain Bike Inner
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Mountain bike gears are continually becoming more and more complicated and intricate. Today’s bikes can come with up to 27 gear ratios. It is common for a mountain bike today to use nine gears in the back and three sprockets of different sizes in the front for gear ration production.
Why so many gears? The most common reason is that a large number of gears allow a rider to pedal at the same pace no matter what terrain that he/she is on. This can be understood better if you think about a bike that just has one gear. Every time you turn the pedals one full turn, then the rear wheel also turns one full turn, too (1:1 gear ratio).
For example, your back wheel is measured at 26 inches. If you pedal one full turn, then this would mean that your wheel moved 81.6 inches. If you are riding at 50 RPM, then you will be able to go 340 feet per minute. This means that you were going 3.8MPH, which is equivalent to walking speed. This speed is great for going up a hill that is steep, but it is not a good speed for flat ground or racing downhill.
If you want your bike to go quicker, then you will need a different ratio. If you want to reach a speed of 25 MPH downhill using a 50-RPM cadence, then you will need to have a 5.6:1 gear ration. If you have lots of gears on your bike, then you will be able to get that ratio so that you can continue your pedaling at a consistent pace, no matter what terrain you are on or what your speed is.
A typical mountain bike that has 27 gears will have six gears so incrementally close to the other that you will not be able to determine that there is any difference between the gears when you change them.
Most mountain bike riders decide to choose a gear system with a front socket that is suitable for the slope or terrain that they usually ride on and they stay with this choice, even though it may be more difficult under a heavy load to shift the gears. This is purely a personal decision, but it is simpler to shift between gears when the rear socket, rather than the front one.
When you are pedaling uphill, then you will find that it is much better to choose a sprocket that is smaller on the front and then shift gears with the nine gears that are available on the rear. If you are more speeds on the rear sprocket, then you will find that it is much more efficient to ride.
Mountain biking needs gears so that you can keep an overall speed going. If you didn’t have gears, then you would find it difficult to build up any speed and you would find it nearly impossible to pound your pedals for extra control. Gears help to move the pedals and enable you to gain that speed.
Andrew Caxton is a consultant who writes on many consumer topics like bicycles for http://www.bikecyclingreviews.com. You can find more information and resources on mountain bike reviews at his website.
Maintaining Your Mountain Bike - The Basics
Riding a mountain bike is great exercise and a lot of fun...and while it's hard on your legs, it's hard on the machinery itself. Keeping your bike maintained will keep you safe, and keep the bike in better condition for years to come. There are three basic time frames for maintaining your bike:
- Just before you ride,
- just after you ride,
- long-term storage and repairs.
Just before you ride, bike maintenance is fairly straightforward: Check the tire pressure, fill them up to the level you're comfortable with and so on. Make sure that the seat is canted at the right angle, make sure that the quick release levers on the wheels are locked tight, and run the pedals with your hands to make sure that the derailleur is working clearly. Your aim is to make sure that if anything is going to need attention, it gets it now, rather than after you're out on the trail.
After the ride, especially if it's been damp or muddy, you should set the bike upside down (so it's balanced on the seat and handlebars), and run a damp cloth over the derailleur, and the other moving parts that shift the chain around for shifting gears. The aim here is to get any mud, twigs, and brambles out before they provide an avenue for moisture to enter. This is also the time to pop the wheels off and clean them before throwing the bike into the car to drive back home.
After you get the bike home, give everything a thorough cleaning. If you use a dry lubricant on the chain, about once a month, break the chain and re-apply it. (We regularly boil our bicycle chains in paraffin, but that's because we ride in the winter, and it holds up better to snow and salt). It's also probably time to just take things partially apart, to the limits of your skills, and put them back together; this is great for adjusting shock absorber systems (and getting rid of annoying squeaks), and tightening cables for brakes, inspecting brake pads, and the like.
Mountain bikes in routine use get a fair bit of wear and tear. Always check to make sure that things are setting properly when you're off the bike and have it at home; again, the aim is to find anything that could break and fix it before you go on the trail rather than have your fun curtailed by equipment failure.
If you are not an all weather cyclist (and not many people are), its worth carrying out some steps to prepare your bike for storage and to take it out again for the road in the spring.
Firstly, when storing your bike, take the wheels off and hang the frame. When the wheels are off, its worth running the inner tubes through a bucket of soapy water to locate any slow leaks and patch them, and its worth tightening and tuning up anything you can reach.
A good book for this process is the Complete Bike Repair Handbook, which we use in our shop for getting bikes ready for sale. It's also a good time to true your wheels with a spoke wrench. (Some dedicated mountain bikers true their wheels after every ride...)
When you're putting the bike back into roadworthy condition, the top priority is checking the breaks, followed by running the gear shifts - cable housings can shift when the bike is in storage, which can make things a bit noisier than they should be. (Remember, if it's making noise, then parts that probably shouldn't be rubbing, are rubbing.)
With this advice, you should be well set for mountain biking fun!
About the Author
Derek Rogers is a freelance writer who writes for a number of UK businesses. For
Mountain Bike
specialists, he recommends Merlin Cycles.
I have a mountain bike and it lost air pressure on the rear tire 30 minutes after i tried to let it jump.?
I tried putting more air in it but once you take out the pump, the air quickly escapes the tire. I bought a new inner tube but the same thing happens when i tried to put air in it again. Do you think there is an alignment issue on the valve or is it in the rims? should i buy a new set of tires with the tube? Thank you for any help.
check to make sure the valve core is tight,it's a small valve that screws into the valve stem
Police: DNA match leads to charges
One man s loss could also have been his gain when police returned a stolen Chevrolet Suburban to its owner, and the vehicle contained clothing, CDs and a mountain bike that had not been there previously.
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