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Mtb Grips Pack
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Creative Labs 3-in-1 Skin Pack for Zen Mozaic (Black/Pink/White ) List Price: $14.99 Sale Price: $7.45 |
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The ZEN Mozaic Skin Pack (3-in-1) comes in three different colors, letting you accessorize your MP3 player to suit the occasion. Designed to fit your ZEN Mozaic snugly, the Skin Pack offers a non-slip protective layer with a good grip. Keep your player free from dirt and scratches today! |
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Bike Grips - ODI Grips - Rogue Clamp On Grips w/ Plugs List Price: $21.95 |
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Treat your hands to a set of new grips. With the ODI Rogue, you'll have a hard time letting go. |
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Odi ODI Rogue Bicycle Grip Bonus Pack (Black/Silver) List Price: $30.99 Sale Price: $19.89 |
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Aluminum clamps secure the grip on both ends using hex wrench. Loosen pinch bolts and grips slide on or off with ease. 130mm length for standard shift/brake setup (not for twist shifters = use 90mm replacement grip options for twist shifters). Bonus pack includes Lock-On grips, clamps, and with new Snap Cap end plugs. Gold is a Limited Edition run. |
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Lizard Skins Peaty Lock-On Cheers Grip List Price: $27.45 |
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Install the comfy Lizard Skins Peaty Lock-On Cheers Grip and roll with a non-slip, dampening, and secure grip.Product FeaturesMaterial: Aluminum, plastic, rubberLock On: Yes, clamps includedWidth: 5.1in (130mm)Weight: Recommended Use: Riding dirtyManufacturer Warranty: |
Featured Article:

One of the most important components on your mountain bike is your tires. They grip the ground and provide the traction you need on different surfaces. Most mountain bike riders look for light weight, strength and traction in a tire and many advanced riders even have multiple sets of tires for different riding conditions.
So what tire is right for your mountain bike and riding style? With so many different manufactures and models to choose from which one is right for you? These are not easy questions to answer so hopefully we can provide some insight to get you moving in the right direction. Mountain bike parts are not cheap and you want to make the right decision.
Tire Construction:
Consider a Kevlar bead or folding tire - A Kevlar tire weighs an estimated 60-80 grams less then a conventional none folding tire. It does not sound like much of a weight savings but multiple that number by two and then consider the rotating weight. For an extra couple of dollar, in my opinion, it is worth spending the extra money.
Terrain and Tread patterns:
Determine where you are going to ride and how you are going to use the bike. As an example will you be riding on the local trails that are hard packed dirt or on slick rock?
- For hard packed terrain consider a narrower and smooth tire. As an example a tire that is 1.8 to 2.0 wide.
- For hard packed terrain with a good mix of rocks you might want to consider a wider and smooth tire. As an example a tire that is wider then 2.0.
- For loosely packed terrain consider a knobby tire. Choose a tire with a really aggressive pattern as this will help you gain maximum traction in the dirt. You might also want to consider tires that are designed for the front and rear of the bike.
- For muddy terrain consider a narrow tire. Narrow tires will reach the bottom of the mud and create less resistance when turning making it easier for you to move forward.
- For all terrain tires there are so many choices to consider. Many of the major tire manufacturers make very good tires that are great for all conditions.
Riders Body Size:
Consider your body size. If you are heavier you might want to consider a wider tire.
Where to buy:
You can buy your tires at a bike store, order them from an online website or from an individual selling tires posted on a mountain bike classifieds website.
The information above is a rough guide on what to consider when buying new mountain bike tires. Many bikes stores that have bikes for sale and bike parts can also give you their opinion. Talk to your friends and read online forums to see what other riders like and don't like. The more information you have the better.
See you on the trail.
Experience with full suspension and hartail mountain bikes, bike parts and organizing race events for mountain biking.
Mountain Bike Workshop - How to Inspect your Mountain Bike Drivetrain
We know how it is, you’ve had a long, hard day at school, or the office, and all you want to do is get out and ride away the stress. We know you put in a long day, so let's keep this one simple. We are going to run through your bike's drivetrain to make sure it’s ready.
SPIN IT
Clamp your bike to a bike stand, hook it to a low-hanging branch or flip it upside down. (A last resort, because it is difficult to shift the bike in this position, if you have air in your hydraulic brakes the bubbles might go where they will diminish braking performance, and finally, you’re going to scrape your grips or shifters and saddle.) You want to be able to spin the cranks and have the chain and rear wheel rotate easily.
We are also assuming that you have correctly adjusted your derailleurs and the bike was shifting properly on your last ride.
Clean up the chain, chainrings and cassette using a toilet brush (gets in the nooks and crannies better than anything actually made for the job).
EYEBALL TRUING
Imagine looking down the drivetrain like you would look down the iron sights of a shotgun. The rear sight is where the chain leaves the cassette and the front sight is where the chainring picks up the chain. Run the bike through all its gears while sighting down the drivetrain in this manner. You are watching for wobbles or chain jumping.
REAR CLEAR
If the chain is doing a little dance off the cassette, don't rush out and buy a new cassette. First, take a thin screwdriver and clean out anything that might be packed in between the cogs. Nine-speed cassettes are notorious for being thrown off track by fairly small amounts of dirt or foliage.
SNUG IT UP
It is unlikely that your cogs are loose, because you would have heard a jangling sound while riding. If they are loose, you need to snug the cassette lockring with a lockring tool. Pull the wheel off. Slip the lockring tool into the lockring and snug it up.
WOBBLY RINGS
If there is a wobble where the chain contacts the chainring, check the mounting hardware to make sure it is all tight. If everything is tight and it still wobbles, there is a good chance that the rock you pegged (or riding with the hardware loose) bent the chainring (90 percent of the time it will be your big ring). If it is bent enough that you see it wobble or that it rubs on a perfectly adjusted derailleur, the chainring needs to be replaced.
CHAIN WEAR
Measure a one-foot length of your chain, placing an inch mark of the tape measure in the middle of one rivet. Look at the corresponding rivet 12 links away. On a new chain, this rivet will line up exactly with the six- inch mark. With a worn chain, the rivet will be past the inch mark. If the rivet is less than 1/16-inch past the mark, you should replace the chain.
FINAL TIP
If you do replace any component, don't immediately head out for a long ride. Do a short test ride, including a significant hill, to make sure that the new parts are compatible with the old parts. You'll know if there is a problem if the chain skips under maximum efforts.
About the Author
World of Dirt is the place to come if you want riding tips, how to articles, product reviews and training advice. Want to improve your riding and mountain bike knowledge? Of cause you do! For handy tips, advice and ideas sign up to our FREE NEWSLETTER at http://www.bdccycles.com/wod
If my new MTB rims width are 1 inch wide -outer to outer- what is the thinnest-best wheel i can use?
I ride 30 kms a day and 25 is on pavement so semi slicks is what i am thinking for maximum roll but still can grip in loose gravel and hard pack trails.
The range between thinnest to widest is what i am looking for as i dont really know about this stuff and what i read i just aint grasping
thanks in advance for helping
You need to measure the inner width of the rim to establish which tyres will be safe to use. If you look at the first attached link, and scroll down almost to the bottom, there is a chart that shows you what size tyres will fit which sized rims.
I use Continental Travel Contact tyres on one of my cycles, they are slicks in the middle, but have studs around the edge, so they should be suitable for what you need - see the second link.
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