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Rear Derailleur Pulley
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There's a lot of terminology to learn if you're a mountain biking enthusiast. These enthusiasts have a language all their own, what with "face plants, boing-boing, drillium and wild pig."
However, there is also biking terminology that stays the same, regardless of the age of the user, and that's the terms used for individual parts of the bike. And its important to know these as well.
1. Bottom bracket - A circular hole in the bottom frame of the bike, used to attach the crankset.
2. Brake cable - The cable that connects the brake lever to the brake mechanism.
3. Brake lever - Lever on the handlebar which activates the brakes. The left lever controls the front brake, the right lever controls the rear brake.
4. Chain - The set of circular metal links which transfers power from the chain ring to the cogs. There are two types of bicycle chains: bushing and bushingless.
5. Chainring - Part of the crankset. A sprocket or toothed wheel which attaches to the crank and holds the chain. Bikes can have from two to three chainrings.
6. Crank - Part of the crankset. The lever or "arm" which connects the pedal to the bottom bracket.
7. Derailleur - The device which moves the chain from one chainring to another inorder to shift gears.
8. Down tube - Part of the frame. The tube which runs diagonally from the head tube (supporting the handlebars) to the bottom bracket. Above this is the top tube, which runs from the head tube to the seat.
9. Front shock - A suspension system on the front fork which allows the bike to absorb shocks without transmitting them to the rider.
10. Handlebar - The horizontal bar located at the front of the bike which is used to steer, and which will contain the shifters and break levers and any other items a cyclist wishes to have within easy reach.
11. Headset - The device which houses the bearings that enables the handlebars and front wheel to rotate on the frame of a bike. There are two types of headset, the threaded and the threadless.
12. Hub - The center part of the bicycle wheel, consisting of an axle and ball bearings to allow the wheel to move easily. In addition, the spokes radiate out from the hub to the bicycle rim.
13. Idler pulley- A pulley takes up slack in the chain in order to keep it tight at all times.
14. Nipple - Small threaded cylinders in the bicycle rim which secure a spoke to the rim.
15. Pedal - A short metal bar on which to put your foot, in order to propel the bicyle. The pedal is attached to the crank. Pedals can be simple or come attached with clips in which to put your shoes to increase leverage.
16. Rear shock - On a dual suspension bike, the device that absorbs shocks from the rear tire.
17. Rim - The metal ring to which the bicycle tire is fitted, and to which the breakes apply their force. The interior of the rim holds the spokes which give strength to the tire.
18. Saddle - Also called the seat. Something to sit on!
19. Seat post - The tubular support to which the saddle is connected. This tube is then placed into the seat tube, and can be raised or lowered depending on the rider.
20. Skewer - A metal rod that attaches the wheel to the frame of the bicycle. On one end is a nut to keep the skewer secure, on the other is the release mechanism, which is secured either by a "quick release" toggle, or with bolts.
21. Spindle - Part of the bottom bracket. The free rotating axle to which the crank arms attach.
22. Spokes - The thick wires that join the hub to the rim. The amount of spokes determine how strong the tire will be. Spokes can also be arranged in different patterns, which affect twisting and brake forces.
23. Stem - The metal piece that attaches the handlebar to the steering tube.
24. Wheel hub - See hub.
Andrew Caxton is the author and editor of many resources published at http://www.bikecyclingreviews.com . For additional information on components subjects follow this link mountain bikes
What Can Go Wrong with the Bike Chain ?
The chain is completely exposed at the bottom of your bike, so it easily picks up dirt and grime, twigs and leaves can get caught in it, and it can be impacted with foreign objects (especially if you're riding off-road) — all of which can undermine the chain's integrity and lead to a break at the most inopportune time.
There are a number of telltale signs that you have an issue with your chain:
You have to exaggerate the movement of your shifter to force the chain to jump to another cog on the rear wheel.
The pedal jerks forward when you're applying pressure, because the chain skipped a tooth on a cog.
Pedaling is not as smooth as it once was.
The chain makes a lot of noise while you pedal but not while you coast.
Issues with your chain can be caused by a number of factors. The most common of them are dirt, stiff links, and normal wear and tear.
Getting down and dirty
The chain is one of the parts of your bike that's completely exposed to the elements. This, combined with the fact that it has to be covered in lubrication to work properly, makes the chain a magnet for dirt and grime. The abrasive qualities of dirt begin to wear down the chain and the other parts that the chain comes in contact with, such as the cogs, chainrings, and rear derailleur pulley wheels. When dirt works its way into the chain links, they become stiff, which hampers your bike's shifting ability .
Stuck in a rut: Stiff links
If you find that your chain is skipping or making a consistent, repetitive noise when you're pedaling, you may have a stiff link.
Wear and tear
Although keeping your chain clean and lubricated will greatly extend its life, normal use of the chain will eventually lead to wear. The chain does most of the work, transferring power to the rear wheel, revolution after revolution. After you've traveled enough miles, it begins to stretch, and after it starts stretching, it can rapidly wear out the chainrings and cogs. A stretched chain is also more vulnerable to breaking. Stretching doesn't mean that the chain links have increased in size. It just means that, over time, the wear on the rivets, rollers, and inner links increases the amount of play at each link. The accumulated looseness across many links causes a stretching effect.
About the Author
woodchuck is an up and coming expert on crafts and hobbies. Do you want complete Plans for Shave Horse? You can learn Wood Bench Stops plans, or you can learn woodworking by going to Sharpening Station Plans site.
Is there a 'normal' bike noise?
Other than the clicking of the freewheel, is there a normal bike noise?
My Specialized bike sounds like the noise in this commercial, except slightly amplified.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M6sDYQuDXx4#t=0m28s
I'm pretty sure the constant clicking sound is coming from the chain going into the rear derailleur pulleys at a certain angle.
I'm not trying to debug though- I just want to know if every bike has this noise. My old Trek had this noise too.
You are precisely correct.... You're hearing the chain links rolling over the various pulleys and such. It's totally normal and nothing to worry about at all.
EuroTrash Monday!
Stybar Does It Again! Zdenek Stybar did it again at the Cross Worlds yesterday in Germany capturing once again the World Championship gold after a dominating performance in the cold conditions.
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