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Icebiking or snowbiking is a winter sport that many cyclists choose to partake in, partly because they don't want to stop biking just because the weather changed, but also, because some enjoy the challenges. And there are many challenges the icebiker faces - beyond snow and ice, there is also salt and sand on roads that can make navigating things even more difficult for the rider.

Given that icebiking is done in cold weather, it is important for the rider to keep warm. The rider will need a lot of protective gear, including layers, vests, and other insulated clothing. The feet need protection in the form of many layers of socks, as conventional boots will often interfere with pedaling. Gloves are also a challenge, as the rider needs to have a tight grip on the handlebars of the bike, and bulky gloves or mittens, which can be worn for sports like skiing or snowboarding won't work for this sport. Head gear, including a hat and helmet, and goggles, are also essential. Face masks are preferred by some icebikers. It's all a matter of personal preference.

Because riding on ice is difficult, many icebikers buy special tires that will give them more control. These tires have "studs" that help keep the bike from sliding, and the rider falling off. These tires are used almost exclusively for ice; snow is be better handled without the spiked tires, in general.

Other concerns, besides the tires, is how easily road salt can corrode the bike itself. And because bikes aren't as solid as automobiles, the damage can be more significant. Many icebikers and snowbikers decide to use cheap or older bikes for this sort of activity, as it puts the bike at risk for significantly more damage than normal biking conditions would. Many bikers choose aluminum bike frames, as they hold up better under the stressful winter weather when compared to steel frames. Either way, it is important for the icebiker or snowbiker to wash the bike thoroughly when returning from a ride.

Icebiking and snowbiking can be done on roads, though it is not the safest option available. If one is to ice or snowbike in heavily trafficked areas, it is important to wear reflective tape or even a helmet light, to notify vehicles of your presence, as visibility is compromised in snow and ice conditions, as is vehicle stop time. As such, many icebikers and snowbikers choose to use off-road trails, which are safer, because they don't run the risk of encountering a vehicle.

When icebiking or snowbiking, the most important things to do are stay warm, stay safe, and be careful. And finally, have fun!

The author is associated with YourCycling.com, a cycling [http://www.yourcycling.com/] community.

1: Schwinn 100179 860 Treadmill

Schwinn-100179-860-Treadmill

 

Schwinn-100179-860-Treadmill
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This treadmill exceeds expectations. Only using it for about a month, but it was very easy to install and go. It seems worth the money and I am very happy with your purchase. Now I only have an incentive to be about 3-5 km per day, which can be a little 'free time, but it will be easy for this wonderful machine. It seems that the quality is as good as I was in a nearby gym.

 

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Low PriceSchwinn 860 Treadmill

The Schwinn 860 Treadmill [4.5 stars]

You can read in detail below my response to the Schwinn 860 Treadmill, which I very gratefully received through the Amazon Vine program. As you'll see, I found some problems, but nearly all of them would be fixed with a rewrite of some of the direction manual, which is inaccurate in parts. Other negatives are minor: Three of the preset courses could be divided in two without a problem, as far as I can see. The on/off switch is inconveniently located. The preset courses should be displayed on the machine for ease of use. In general, however, I think it's a great machine. Whisper quiet (as these things go; I have access to another treadmill which is much, much louder than this one) and solid-feeling, with a long walking deck and some thoughtful features. Once you get past the problems I've noted below with the instruction manual, the treadmill is easy to use. Navigating the menus is for the most part intuitive. And it's even easier to use if you don't want to fool with any of the preset courses. Press the "quick start" button and you'll be taking a walk in seconds: you can adjust the speed and incline as you go. I'm really loving it. 

Immediately below is a summary of the good and the bad. Below that find my in-depth discussion. I've also uploaded two charts to the customer images associated with this product. These are explained below. 

THINGS TO LOVE ABOUT THIS MACHINE 

* It's *very* quiet. 
* Hydraulic lift for ease in unfolding. 
* Easy setup. 
* Lots of different options for preset courses, including target heart rate programs and two custom programs. 
* Built-in fan. 
* Two means of monitoring heart-rate: comes with a chest strap heart monitor! 

THINGS THAT COULD BE IMPROVED 

* The presentation of the preset courses in the directions is inaccurate and misleading. 
* The presentation of the preset courses in the directions is confusing. 
* The preset courses should be printed (correctly) on the machine. That would be more helpful than the included speed/pace chart. 
* The on/off switch is inconvenient for regular access. 

===================================================== 

SETUP AND NOISE 

This is a heavy piece of equipment. The hardest part of getting the thing set up will be manhandling it into position. It'll help if you have some burly men at your disposal, or if you are a burly man yourself. Once you have the machine in place, actually putting the pieces together is a snap. I didn't time myself but it probably took about 20-30 minutes. There are a handful of parts to be screwed in. All necessary tools are provided, and the directions are very good--with one odd exception. Once you're finished putting the treadmill together according to the directions, you'll find yourself with a leftover piece, a piece of contoured gray plastic about two feet long and a few inches wide. There's no word in the directions about where this goes, but it fits at the back of the machine, underneath the belt (see my video). You'll see four screws in place there for attaching the piece of plastic. I attached it, but I wound up taking it off again because it scraped against the belt and made a lot of noise. 

Similarly, you may find that the plastic over the motor in the front can scrape a bit on the belt and be noisy. If it does, just adjust the plastic a little. When all is properly situated, the machine is very quiet. If there's an unpleasant noise, something's probably scraping. 

PROFILE PROGRAMS 

The Schwinn 860 offers 9 preset courses, Course 1-3, Circuit 1-3, and Pursuit 1-3. (In this review, I'll capitalize Course when I'm referring to a preset course, but leave the word in lower case when I'm using it as a generic noun.) It's not obvious to me why the courses are distinguished by different titles in this way rather than being called Course 1-9, for example, but at any rate the different preset courses offer nine different patterns of activity (intensity fluctuating quickly or building slowly, etc.) The user can make adjustments to the speed or incline to be used during the workout while selecting their course, and during the course as well manual adjustments can be made. 

There are a couple of issues with the presentation of the course information in the direction manual. Most importantly, the course information as it appears in the book is incorrect and/or misleading in a number of places: 

The descriptions for each of the nine courses state that the user can set the "maximum and minimum" speed or incline (depending on the course). This is not correct. In each case you can set the MAXIMUM speed or incline, but not the minimum. The minimum follows whatever is set for the maximum. For example, if in Course 1 you select a maximum speed of 4.5 mph, the minimum speed will automatically be 1.5 mph. If the maximum speed selected is 5 mph, then the minimum will be 2 mph, and so on. The minimum speed can be adjusted manually while you're using the machine, but not during the course selection. 

The directions for Course 3 and Circuit 3 both read: "You set the maximum and minimum speed and incline, and the treadmill adjusts as shown in these profiles." (As explained above, however, you can in fact only set the maximum figure, not the minimum.) We are then shown two bar graphs. The first shows the speed pattern for the course, the second the incline pattern. One assumes, reading it, that the speed and incline will both adjust according to these patterns during the course. But that's not how it works. Unless I'm missing something--and I don't think I am--you can set the maximum speed for the course OR the maximum incline, but not both. And in fact, when you're navigating the menus on the machine, that's the choice you're given: the monitor prompt reads "Select speed or incline." If you select speed and input your maximum, there's no option given for then also setting incline. If you select incline, there's no option given for then entering speed. Essentially, and confusingly, Course 3 and Circuit 3 offer two further courses each, one with adjustable speed and one with adjustable incline. 

The information provided for Pursuit #3 is incorrect in the book. As it stands, the directions read, "You set the maximum and minimum incline, and the treadmill adjusts as shown in this profile. You can manually adjust the speed." We are then given one bar graph, showing the incline pattern for that course. As we saw above, one can in fact only set the maximum incline for this course, not the minimum. But also, Pursuit 3 (just like Course 3 and Circuit 3) should read that you can set the maximum speed OR incline. And there should be another bar graph given for the speed pattern of the course. (See the chart I uploaded to the customer images associated with this product.) 

So much for errors. But it's a little hard to grasp the differences among the preset courses as they're laid out in the book--even assuming that the information were correct. For this reason I created for myself a chart that displays the information in a small, more easily (I think) understood format. I've actually created two charts: one showing how the information is presented in the book; the other how I think it should be presented in accordance with my above observations. (As far as I can see, you can always make manual adjustments during a course, so I've removed information about manual settings from my revised chart.) If anyone would like to use either chart, I've uploaded them to the customer images associated with this product. Once printed out, the chart can be taped onto the machine for easy reference. I taped mine over the speed/pace chart on the right of the machine, which doesn't add information valuable to the user anyway. (It would have been nice to have this course information printed on the machine itself somewhere. I know that at least some other treadmills do this.) 

Not only would it be nice to have the (corrected) course diagrams printed on the treadmill. It would also be great if the courses could be selected more easily than through the courses/profile menu. Ideally, there could be course preset buttons in addition to or instead of speed or incline preset buttons. 

READY MODE 

When you're finished with a workout and you remove the magnetic safety key from its holder, the machine returns to "ready mode." That means that the monitor's lights are on and it's waiting for you to insert the key again. It stays like this apparently forever, until you turn the machine off with the on/off switch at the front of the machine, near the floor. This strikes me as odd. Are we intended to leave it on indefinitely? It may not use much energy, but it must use some, so I'd prefer to turn the thing off for real after every workout. I've got my machine positioned so that getting to the on/off switch isn't a big problem, though it's certainly not the handiest place to access it. But I can imagine some set-ups in which it wouldn't be so easy to get to the switch. This seems like a poor design element to me. 

FOLDING THE MACHINE 

The treadmill can be easily folded up for storage or moving or to vacuum under it. You just lift up the walking deck until it clicks into place. But what's delightful is that when you unfold it, you don't have to support its weight and put it down on the floor again. There's a hydraulic lift that eases the deck to the floor. Very nice feature. 

MONITORING HEART RATE 

There are two ways to monitor your heart rate with the machine. There are sensors built into the handles. These detect your pulse, which shows up in the monitor. Alternatively, you can wear the chest strap heart monitor that comes with the machine. Provided that you're wearing it correctly and the electrodes are receiving data, your heart rate will show up on the monitor. You may want this for your own information or because you're using one of the heart rate control programs, which allow you to set a target heart goal for your workout. (As you exercise, the incline and speed adjust automatically to keep your pulse in the target area. In my experience using the chest sensor with a target heart rate program, it works quite smoothly.) Certainly, if you want to monitor your heart rate throughout your workout, you'll want to use the chest strap: hanging onto the handlebars is okay for the occasional reading, but you won't want to hold it the whole time. 

BUILT-IN FAN 

This is a sweet feature: a two-speed fan built into the controls. You can direct the air where you want it with a horizontal lever. 

BODY MASS INDEX PROGRAM 

According to the directions, there's a BMI program on the machine that will calculate your BMI from the height and weight values you've entered into your user profile. I haven't been able to find this BMI program on the machine. On the other hand, it seems to be completely unnecessary, as one can easily calculate one's BMI using online calculators, for example. 

MISCELLANEOUS ISSUES 

This isn't a big deal, but reading this may save you a little time. The serial number for the machine is on the front, near the cord, not on the back of the machine, as indicated in a diagram in the direction manual. 

There's a typo on a prominent label on the machine. It reads "MAX INCINE 12%" rather than "MAX INCLINE 12%." 

======== 

ADDENDUM 12-16-09 

As I was using the treadmill today it stopped working, and gave me an E7 error message. I tried to fix it by unplugging and restarting and so on, but the error remained, and it was stuck at a high incline. I looked online and in the instruction manual for insight, but didn't see anything relevant. Then I called the customer service number I found on Schwinn's web site. I must say, it was one of the most pleasaant experiences I've ever had with a customer service department. The woman I spoke to was pleasant and smart and easy to understand. She didn't immediately know how to fix the problem but went off to check with others, or look things up. And she talked me through a fix that involved entering a test menu on the monitor and changing some settings. What could have been a really bad situation turned out to be a really good experience. I applaud Schwinn for this. 

-- Reviewed by Debra Hamel

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How do I wrap my bar tape around the brake levers and make it look good without a hood cover?

I recently purchased a vintage Schwinn Varsity and I wanted to wrap the handlebars with bar tape but I do not have brake lever hoods. The vintage ad I have of the bike shows the bars wrapped without brake lever hoods but I have not seen this done anywhere on the web in terms of do-it-yourself instructions. Here is the original bike ad. My bike looks just like it minus the bar tape. http://www.geocities.com/sldbdealer6/1963/63dlct08b.jpg

I used to race bikes similar to that in the late 50s as brake levers such as Mafac only had a rubber part on the top of the brake lever. Just put the tape on in the normal way and over lap the top and bottom of the levers. The tape these days is a lot more flexible than the cloth tape we used then.

Try this site for more tips. http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=71

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