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Featured Article:
Do you have a 2007 Chevy Malibu? I do and I'm here to help you along. I want to talk to you about replacing the outside mirrors, either driver side or passenger side. It's a pretty simple process, however, it takes more than many other makes and models.
First things first. This is not only a how-to type read, it's a walking you through from start to finish. I've done this work myself, and will spell out exactly what you need to know to get it done.
Okay, so you just got your side mirror knocked off by some guy driving through the airport arrivals. What do you do? Well you gotta have a mirror to make it through the rest of the airport, so grab some packing tape that you just happen to have and have a go.
Now that you have your mirror secured by whatever means, you need to get to ordering a new mirror. The mirror that you get will be everything you need. It will have the bolts to secure it and the entire body that goes flesh against the door. The best way I get my parts is researching online. Look at different stores online. I found mine at Amazon(dot)com. You can try the Chevy dealer, but you'll be paying a hefty price tag. Main idea, get that mirror. Lucky for us Malibu drivers, the mirrors aren't painted so we don't have to pay any painting fees. My wallet doesn't enjoy buying gold paint.
Now that you are home with you mirror, it's time to get it on. Before we do this, we have to get the old mirror off. This is no easy task. However, once you get this done, you've already got half the work to get the new one on.
Tools you will need are a narrow flat head screw driver, narrow pry bar, needle nose pliers, a hex-key set, and a socket wrench to match the nuts on the mirror. Start by finding an oval-shaped tab right behind the handle bar on the door. Using the screwdriver, go from underneath and pop out that tab. Use your hex-key to unscrew the screws. Repeat that process with the control tab. With this, I suggest using a shop rag to keep from scratching or damaging the panel. Once you get this tab off, disconnect the signal cables from the door lock and the window controls. Next you need to pop off the covering around the door latch handle.
Now that you have this done, it's time to take off the door panel. Using the pliers, pull off the two circular tabs along the door jam. Now take your pry bar, starting from the bottom next to the door hinges, pop off the door panel. You will hear snaps, that's a good thing. Once you have all the snaps undone, slide the panel up and out. You'll have to be cautious around the locking lever.
Now you have a view of the mirror cover. Slide it up over the tabs that are securing it to the door. Now take your socket wrench, get rid of the other bolts. When you have all the bolts removed, slide the mirror out.
You have successfully removed the old mirror! Now it's time to put in the new mirror. We are going to start by inserting the mirror in the appropriate holes and tightening them down. You can't tighten them too much, just don't strip the nut. That simple. You now have your new mirror installed. To close up, just go in reverse through the steps I just led you through. Good job!
Michael Kelly, Malibu driver and maintainer. To learn more just contact me through my website http://michaelkellyinternational.blogspot.com
Bicycle Roadworthiness Check
Before riding your bike for the first time you should conduct basic checks following the 'M' method, and after that a simple ABC (Air, Brakes, Chain) check before setting off should be sufficient. Unless you are a confident mechanic, however, you should take your bike in for an annual or bi-annual service. Several local LCC groups organize repair workshops at a low cost, and also arrange 'Dr Bike' sessions where bikes can be examined and some minor adjustments carried out.
You should clean your bike at least once a month and lubricate it weekly (use a proper chain lubricant for the chain) if you use it regularly. A simple way of cleaning a bike is to use a bucket of warm water with some car shampoo in it and a 'banister' brush. For the chain and gears use a dishwashing brush and a plastic dish-scouring sponge, or specialized equipment, then lubricate them when dry.
The M-Check Method
This simple way of checking your bike gets its name from the M-shaped sequence of checks that you follow, from the bottom of the front wheel up to the handlebars, down to the chainset, up to the saddle and then down to the bottom of the rear wheel.
Front wheel
- The tyre should be fully inflated (the required pressure in psi or bar is marked on the side wall of the tyre) and the tread free of cuts
- The hub quick-release or the wheel nuts should be well secured
- The wheel should not move from side to side
- The rim should spin true and the brake surfaces should not be badly worn
- All spokes should be tight and in place
- The inner tube valve should be straight, not at an angle.
Front brake
- Spin the wheel and then pull the brake tight with the lever – the brake should lock the front wheel firmly
- The brake pads should not rub on the rim and should hit the rim squarely
- Brake cables should be tightly attached and not frayed at either brake or lever ends
- Replace broken cable casings
- Replace worn brake pads
- The brake should not move backwards and forwards or judder – if it does, you may need to tighten the brake assembly.
Forks
Forks usually curve away from the bike. Replace bent forks.
Headset
The headset should be tight but allow free movement of the handlebars.
Stem
- The stem should be secured tightly, and stems that move up and down should not be above their upward limit marker. Your stem should be in line with the front wheel.
Handlebars
- Handlebars should be tightly secured to stem
- All bolts attaching brake levers and gear levers to the handlebars should be secure
- Replace handlebar end plugs if missing.
Frame
Check for dents and cracks.
Bottom bracket and chainset
- The chainset should rotate smoothly when you turn it backwards
- The chainset should not wobble from side to side – a wobbly chainset usually means the bottom bracket is loose
- Chainrings should be true and it should be difficult to pull the chain away from them – if it pulls away easily it may be worn.
Chain
The chain should be free of mud and well lubricated. Use a degreaser to remove road dirt and apply proper chain lubricant (not WD40 or light oil). Replace the chain if it is worn – significant wear may require replacement of the gear sprockets at the same time.
Cranks
Both cranks should be firmly attached to the bottom bracket.
Pedals
Pedals should spin smoothly and be firmly attached to the cranks.
Front gears
- The cable should be firmly attached and not frayed. The cage should move smoothly from side to side
- If your front gears are not shifting properly you may need to adjust the upper and lower limits of the gear cage
- Gears that don't shift at all could mean a rusty or defective cable.
Seat post
The seat post should be set to the correct height (see Correct Set-up, page 16) and not exceed the upper limit mark.
Saddle
The saddle should be in line with the wheels, secure and level or set a fraction downward at the front if you prefer.
Rear brake
Checks as for front brake.
Rear wheel
Checks as for front wheel.
Rear gears
- Indexed gears should change with a click – if they do not, you may need to adjust the upper and lower limits
- Bent gear hangers may affect performance, and stiff or rusty cables may also affect shifting
- If hub gears do not shift properly you may need to adjust the cable tension.
Accessories
- Make sure lights are fitted properly
- Check the bolts on your mudguards and luggage carriers – these often come loose and then fall out.
Tyre inflation
- For inner tubes with Schrader (car type) valves you push or screw on the pump connectorfirmly (the pin in the pump has to contact the pin in the valve), unfold the thumb lock on the pump (if it has one) and inflate. To deflate, press the pin inside the valve
- To inflate a Presta (long and thin) valve, unscrew the small nut on the tip of the valve, press it gently to release a little air, push or screw on the connector, then set the thumb lock and inflate. To deflate, unscrew the small nut and press.
Here are the essential items of kit you will need for travelling and at home:
Travelling:
- Portable pump suitable for your type of inner tube valve
- Spare inner tube to match your tyre size (check width and wheel diameter – usually 700 C or 26 inches)
- Puncture repair kit with patches, glue and sandpaper
- Three strong plastic tyre levers
- Multi-tool or set of Allen keys in sizes to fit all the bolts on your bike (including 8 mm for the chainset and the right size for brake pad adjustment)
- An adjustable spanner
- Small Phillips and flat-head screwdrivers
- Plastic gloves (from chemist)
- Zip ties
- Duct tape
Additions for basic home kit:
- Track pump with gauge
- Spanners in 8, 9, 10, 15 and 17 mm sizes
- Chain removal tool
- Bicycle wire cutters
- PliersSharp knife
About the Author
Bicycle Roadworthiness Check article is taken from the London Cycling Guide 2nd Edition and is published by New Holland Publishers, price £10.99 at http://www.newhollandpublishers.com/details.asp?pid=9781847739346&t=The-London-Cycling-Guide---2nd-edition
New Holland is a non-fiction publishing house dedicated to the highest editorial and design standards. Our publishing programme also features the cream of new illustrated books from Australia, New
Zealand and South Africa. Our range of titles cover Natural History, Travel, Food and Drink, Health and Fitness, Craft and Hobbies, Home and Garden, Reference, Sport and Adventure, Cadogan Guides, and Humour and Gifts.
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