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Looking at the cost of doing business today, it is important to be cautious when looking to spend money. With all of the different supplies it takes to run a business, there are times that you need to consider using less expensive office supplies. Oftentimes you can find products that have the same quality (if not better) with the pricier brands. That is why when looking at envelopes you need to consider using Staples padded envelopes, they offer the quality you need with the price that you would expect.

These envelopes are made from the highest quality products, and are as durable as any other padded envelopes on the market today. The difference is the fact that these envelopes are more economically sound. You are getting more product for the cost.

It is important for an envelope to have a strong, tamper-resistant closure. Making sure that when the envelope is sealed, that it will remain sealed while being mailed, is important. These envelopes offer the pull-and-seal closure. This is one of the strongest closures on the market today. By making sure that you have a strong closure, you can guarantee that no matter what you are sending, it will always arrive safely.

These envelopes will give you the confidence that no matter what you are sending -- from paper to even the most fragile items -- you are using an envelope that will keep it all protected. These envelopes are made with a bubble cushioning material -- a cushioning that will provide protection and security in the envelope. Having the confidence that no matter what, it will keep everything that is being mailed safe.

Made from recycled Kraft paper, Staples padded envelopes will leave an impression with your customers and clients that your company cares about the environment, and is searching for a change. This is an impression that is important to make, and will help to make sure that you are concerned with more than just money, that you care.

Oftentimes when you are looking at saving money on a product, you are making the decision to sacrifice the quality of the product. With these envelopes, this is not true. You can be sure that quality is not being sacrificed, that you are using the highest quality products, at a price that will fit into your budget.

Making the choice to use store brand products is a difficult, but important choice. By choosing to use Staples padded envelopes, you are not sacrificing quality or protection. You are getting strong, durable envelopes that will leave an impression on your customers and clients -- a good one.

Looking for more business tips -- practical advice that will save you time and money? Then why not visit my blog site? It's located at http://www.padded-envelopes.blogspot.com/ Visit and read what's there (leave a comment if you like). It's all about Padded Envelopes, so I'm sure that you will find it useful and interesting.

Gas Tight Blowers for Sulfur Recovery

Industrial Pressure Blower Co. makes offers gas-tight and zero leakage steam-jacketed blowers for Sulfur Recovery in Cemical Industry.

Hydrogen Sulfide H2S is a main source of sulfur. In high concentrations it can be lethal. It occurs in natural gas, oil, volcanic emissions, and some mineral springs. In oil rfining processes its presence is undesirable, and it must be removed. The Clause process is one of the methods used to remove the hydrogene sulphide, and while doing so, recover elementar sulfur.

In pactice this sulfur removal process requires a gas-tight, zero leakage, high temperature and high pressure blower for intermittent duty that must handle toxic gases and must be capable of being brought on line immediately upon demand. To do this the following features on the blower must be provided:

- Double welded casing construction;
- Steam flows between the housing walls to maintain a constant 285 F gas temperature inside the fan (because below 285 F sulfur will change from a gaseous to a solid state and will "freeze" to the blower surfaces causing damage or destruction);
- A mechanical shaft seal with heat tracing and purge by air or nitrogen;
- To assure tight tolerances between the shaft and shaft seal, the housing should be supported at the centerline, and grows concentric to the fan shaft when exposed to heat.: since this support isolates housing from the drive and mounting bases, housing thermal growth doesn't cause forces to be applied to these bases.
- To prevent the shaft from taking a permanent set when the blower is idle but still exposed to the high temperature, a turning gear is provided to keep the blower rotating at a very slow speed of 25 - 40 RPM; alternatively a VFD speed control can be used

Steam jacketed construction can also be used in other thermally critical chemical processes. As to air-tifgt and zero-emission construction, it is used in the following industries:

* Pollution Control
* Pulp and Paper Industry
* Printing and Converting
* Chemical Plants
* Power Generation
* Research and Development
* Petroleum
* Food Processing
* Paint and Ink Industries

for containment of hazardous organic and inorganic compounds in industrial process plants and other critical applications. Special construction and shaft sealing devices are available for blower service requiring zero or minimal gas leakage into and out of casing.

Industrial Pressure Blower Co. has a lot of experince with gas-tight and zero-leakage construction on fans and blowers, including: multistage lip shaft seals; Buna-N, Viton and Teflon seals; mechanical shaft seals; special fan housing gasketings; single and double carbon ring seals; hermetically sealed blowers; magnetofluidic and ferrofluidic seals; and packed stuffing boxes with barrier liquids and purgeable seals.

Specific code welding processes and special fan design features are used too - to ensure complete gas tight integrity.

Some special materials and alloys frequently used in gas tight fans, especially for service in hazardous, abrasive, corrosive and high temperature environments, include:

Corten, ASTM A36 Carbon Steel, Hastelloy, Inconel, Stainless Steels of different kinds, Titanium, Monel, Aluminum, Teflon, Rubber LIning.  These materials are typical for industrial applications requiring high strength alloys and super alloys too.

Industrial Pressure Blower Co. is a world wide distributor of industrial process ans OEM fans and blowers, as well as fan components; including high pressure blowers, high temperature fans, spark resistant and explosion proof ventilators, tubeaxial and vaneaxial high pressure ventilators. Industrial Pressure Blower Co. also does existing fans and blowers repairs, re-build, as well as dynamical wheels balancing.

For additional information please refer to http://www.industrialpressureblower.com/fan.html.

Susan Terlitski
Industrial Ventilation Engineer and Designer
Industrial Pressure Blower Co.
http://industrialpressureblower.com/contact.html
http://industrialpressureblower.com/blower.html

About the Author

Canadian air-handling systems designer.

Mrs. Siouzanna Terlitskaia, nis-co@nis-co.com
Canadian Air Systems
http://nis-co.com

First Salt Water tank...How do I go about it?

I have three small tanks, all freshwater. I have had the two 5 gallon tanks for 1 year, and my ten gallon tank for three years. I have only lost (Killed by accident) one pleco, and I lost one fish to ICK. Other than that I have had no problems. I recently purchased a 50 gallon tank at a garage sale and I would like to attempt salt water tank (complete with coral). I have checked tank for good seal and I am okay there. I need to know where to go to learn all I can about setting up salt water tank, and please do not tell me petco, their fish people are quite ignorant where I live. Info I need: Do I use sand? How do I clean? How many bio wheels do I need? How often do I check ph and nitrates? Please help, would love to set it up for my sweetheart as a anniversary present.. Oh yeah, he wants sharks, can I have normal salt water fish with sharks?

I keep both saltwater and freshwater tanks (several of each, actually), and once you get the tank set up, they're not much more difficult than freshwater if you've planned it properly. It's good that you have some freshwater fishkeeping experience first, or all that I'm about to tell you may seem a bit overwhelming. There is a little more equipment, the water chemistry is a bit more involved, and any of the "specialized" materials (and the fish) for saltwater tend to be more expensive.

Since you are just beginning, I'd suggest starting with just live rock and fish plus a few hardy inverts, then add other items to the same tank as you get some experience and want to try more organisms.

A 50 gallon is a good size to satrt with. The larger of a tank you can use, the better - saltwater fish tend to be larger and more territorial/aggressive than traditional freshwater "community" fishes and more like cichlids in their behavior, so some planning is necessary on just what you can keep together. The larger the tank you have, the more options that are open to you. Just research the fish you want first, to be sure they are all compatible, and their adult sizes are appropriate for the tank size you have. Unfortunately, even the smallest of the saltwater sharks will be much too large for your tank. These will get around 3 feet in length and demand very high water quality (which is difficult enough considering how they eat!).

If you need to get a stand for the tank, try to get solid wood. The particleboard stands won't hold up if they get wet and the glue separates, and the iron/metal stands will corrode if any salt gets on them (or, you could get a metal stand, just use a flannel-backed tablecloth under the tank to protect the stand from splashed water).

Here are some of the other items you'll need. You may already have some if they came with the tank, but I'm including everything I can think of, just in case it wasn't included or you want to upgrade:

FILTER: You'll want to get one that's properly sized (filters 5x-10x the tank volume per hour - check the gallons per hour rating). There are lots of choices, and what you'll need will really depend on budget, what you're trying to keep, and personal preference. I'd consider the best type to be a refugium or wet/dry trickle filter. Next best would be a canister, followed by a biowheel, then a standard hang-on-tank. Unless you're using a fine sand or oolite substrate, you can also use an undergravel filter to supplement filtration, but I'd suggest powering it with a reversible powerhead to blow the water up through the substrate (prevents stuff from building up under the filter and clogging it).

POWERHEAD(S): To provide more water circulation in hard to get to places. This also helps circulate dissolved oxygen to the bottom of the tank. Have at least two for a larger tank.

HEATERS: For a saltwater tank 30 gallons or larger, I'd suggest getting 2 and putting one on each end. This will provide more even heating, and your tank has a back-up if one heater gives out. Figure the correct size as 5 watts per gallon (for a single heater) divided by 2 (if using 2 heaters). If you need to heat the water more than 10 degrees above the room temperature, go one wattage size higher.

LIGHTING: If you never want anything but fish, you can use the standard lighting and hood made for your tank. You might want to upgrade the lamps to a 10,000K tube or a 50/50 actinic. If you're going to try corals, anemones, etc., go with a compact fluorescent, T-5, metal halide, or combo system - these will provide more intense light that they'll need for photosynthesis.

SUBSTRATE - you want something made of aragonite to help keep the pH from changing, I like the smaller shell material that Carib-Sea puts out - it doesn't have to be live sand, either. Some folks like crushed coral, but the particle size is bigger than I like, and it tends to have a lot of dust that never rinses completely out. Another very fine grained material is oolitic aragonite (looks like small white balls) and aragonite sand. Here's an idea of the materials available: http://www.caribsea.com/pages/products/dry_aragonite.html While it's possible to keep a marine tank with regular aquarium gravel, sand, or no substrate, the aragonite will keep the pH from falling below 7.8 (it should be 8.2-8.4).

SALT MIX: If you're only keeping fish, you can go with one of the less expensive brands of synthetic sea salt. If you get any invertebrates (shrimp, snails, crabs, corals, anemones, etc.), switch to a better quality mix before you add them. These cost a little more, but you won't need to be using additives for the trace elements they need either.

HYDROMETER: This measures the amount of salt that's dissolved inwater. There are two kinds you can get, one made of glass that floats on the surface (more accurate, but easy to break) and a plastic container that has a needle that rises and falls as the amount of salt changes (less accurate, bubbles attaching to the needle gives false readings). For fish only, you want the specific gravity to read 1.020 - 1.026. If you're keeping inverts, you want it to be 1.024 - 1.026.

WATER TESTING KIT: minimum of pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate.

CLEANING SUPPLIES: elbow length gloves, gravel vacuum, 5 gallon bucket, large plastic container and powerhead for mixing the salt (to be done well ahead of water changes), algae scraper, razor blades (for coraline algae and diatoms that like to attach to the glass).

WATER CONDITIONER: for removing chlorine or chloramine from your tap water (unless you plan to use a reverse osmosis filter or buy RO water, which is preferred for a reef tank).

The following are optional, but strongly suggested:

PROTEIN SKIMMER: This removes dissloved and small organic materials that would normally contribute to the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate in your tank. Not 100% necessary for fish-only tanks, but will be handy if you have inverts to keep up good water quality by removing organic materials that become nutrients for algae.

GLASS COVER: This reduces evaporation and keeps the fish inside the tank (some are jumpers), although with a metal halide lighting system, it can overheat your tank.

LIVE ROCK: This give the tank a more natural appearance, provides hiding places for the fish and inverts, and increases the biological filtration. Not to mention, you get all kinds of cool critters that hitchhike into your tank (shrimp, snails, sea urchins, sea cucumbers, sea stars, etc.).

CHILLER: If you use metal halide lighting, or the water temperature regularly gets above 85o (for corals or anemones, fish can take a little more heat), you may need to invest in a chiller to keep the tank cool. The water temperature should run 76-80oF.

There may be additional items that you could need, such as kalkwasser to raise your pH if you can't get it to 8.2, but you won't know these until you get the tank set up and running, and test your water.

You may decide that you want to use a UV sterilizer, but in my opinion, these are unnecessary. They don't necessarily kill all the parasites and disease-causing organisms, and they only affect free-floating algae, not any that's attached to your glass, rock, or substrate. The bulbs also need to be replaced yearly. Rather than pay the high price for one of these, you'd do better to buy an inexpensive 10 gallon setup kit and a heater and use these as a quarantine tank.

Before going out and buying all this, I would suggest some reading to see what you're getting into by keeping saltwater. I did research for almost 2 years before I set up my first tank, and I had about 20 years of freshwater aquarium experience already. Rushing into a saltwater setup usually doesn't give you good results, and the equipment and fish are a little too expensive to be finding out in a few weeks you got something that's not appropriate for what you want for your tank. I'd also recommend a good reference book for some research. Either of these would be a good one to start with: The New Marine Aquarium by Michael S. Paletta. Microcosm Ltd. ISBN 1-890087-52-1 or The Conscientious Marine Aquarist by Robert M. Fenner. Microcosm Ltd. ISBN 1-890087-02-5

Some web sites you can check out for more info on keeping saltwater are the following:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marsetupez.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marineSetUp.htm
http://www.peteducation.com/index.cfm?cls=16
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/

As far as the fish, what species are good for starters will depend largely on your interests. Even though they are hardy, I recommend against damsels, mostly because of their aggressivness - add one of these, and they'll terrorize any fish you try to introduce later. The exception I'd make here is the green reef chromis.

You'll want to add the smallest and most peaceful species first, and this will reduce some of the aggression in the tank. It's a general guideline that you shouldn't mix fish of the same color or body shape, or different species from the same families to prevent any of the fish from seeing another as a potential rival. There are a few species that can be kept in schools or in mated pairs, but this is the exception rather than the rule. I prefer the smaller semi-aggressive and peaceful species myself, but your preferences might be different. Some of the ones I would recommend as starters are the chromis, a pair of ocellaris clown (the "Nemo" fish - any two juveniles will work because the dominant one will become a female, the other a male), Bangaii cardinalfish (if you have a good saltwater person at your fish store, they should be able to pick out a male and female for you), longnose hawkfish, canary blenny, jawfish, clown goby, scissortail gobies, dwarf angelfish, and firefish. That's more than you should keep in a 50 as adults, so you'll need to so a little choosing of which you like, or you might want something completely different. Here are a few links to look at, so you get an idea of care level and prices:

http://www.marinedepotlive.com/
http://www.tropicalfishoutlet.com/
http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/categ.cfm?pcatid=15
http://www.saltwaterfish.com/

I do recommending that you buy your fish locally - you get a better idea of the size and health of the fish, plus you won't have to pay for shipping. If you do decide to buy online, only buy from a company that guarantees live delivery of the livestock (some also extend the guarantee for a few days after arrival, which is even better!).

Good luck with your tank!

WVU study can't declare coal slurry injection safe
Legislators have waited 3 1/2 years and spent more than $220,000 to learn whether coal slurry pumped into abandoned underground mines is dangerous to people who live nearby. The answer?

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